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Maytag SE 1000 will not agitate

Washer will not agitate

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41 replies to this topic

#21 kdog

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 11:04 PM

The service manual for that style of washer is here


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#22 Stilltrying3

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 12:25 AM

BTW This Maytag W/D Stacker unit is 25 years old !


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#23 Stilltrying3

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 12:51 PM

Only the second best spanner wrench was available locally

 

about an hour banging with a sledge and no movement thus far

 

I cleaned the grooves and sprayed WD 40 at the point of contact

Yikes !


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#24 Comstock_Services

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 01:26 PM

The brake tool is NLA, did you check the Tub support for a set screw?


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#25 Stilltrying3

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 01:48 PM

Hi CS...

 

This is the inner tub clamp nut ... the manual I have for the SE1000 says there is not a set screw

 

      Attached File  Tub Nut.jpg   60.18KB   15 downloads


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#26 Comstock_Services

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 02:39 PM

OK you can remove the brake package with a flathead and a hammer, The tub nut, will come off but if it had a lot of crap built up in the threads over the years, it'll take a while to get it off, wd40 or anyother penetrating spray lube just let it soak in and keep spraying untill, you get the nut to bust loose. I forget sometimes to this day but they are backwards threads so clockwise to loosen. You're right I though you were talking about the mounting stem. I don't remeber, but I think the new mount stem kit comes with a new clamp nut, so if you could get a new nut in the new mount stem kit that you will need, you can just cut it off with a dremmel, or a chisel.

 

http://www.repaircli...elNumber=SE1000


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#27 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 07:40 AM

Hi CS...

This is the inner tub clamp nut ... the manual I have for the SE1000 says there is not a set screw

attachicon.gifTub Nut.jpg


Before you keep beating on it look for a set screw, I've never seen a Dependable Care Maytag without a setscrew on the mounting stem. The newer mounting stem kits use a torq/star, the older ones used an allen wrench.

If you haven't got the tub out yet and are trying to remove the tub clamp nut that doesn't have a set screw and you can break it easily with a cold chisel, a new tub clamp nut will come with the new mounting stem/seal kit.

And as ComStock and the instructions say, it's Left hand threads, Clockwise to remove.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 30 January 2013 - 07:42 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#28 Stilltrying3

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 09:11 AM

Hi Guys,

 

New Development after:

** Lots of beating

** WD 40

** Cider Vinegar

** 24 hours of above in various amounts of time

 

--> Now - the clamp nut is turning, but not off the upper ??? pipe ???

that it is screwed to but 

--> It is rising above the Clamping Nut Washer

 

Clamping Nut Washer - Stainless
PartSelect Number PS2018566
 
--> so it seems that it is also unscrewing from the 
Mounting Stem  
Part Number: PS2351899
below the inner tub.
 
FWIW - I can't find a set screw anywhere
Not sure if I have a Dependable Care Maytag
I bought the machine in 1988 = before Dependable Care ?
 
Thanks for all your help, I just ordered a round for you guys from the bartender.
... can't find the contribute link, please help
 
ST3

Edited by Stilltrying3, 30 January 2013 - 09:47 AM.

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#29 Stilltrying3

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 09:48 AM

Please see attached pics-

Is there a mounting screw ??

 

TIA 
ST3

Attached Files


Edited by Stilltrying3, 30 January 2013 - 09:49 AM.

Experience is the Best Teacher


#30 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 10:11 AM

You need to stop and break the tub nut off with a cold chisel.

 

If you keep doing what you're doing you're going to mess up the threads on the transmission.

 

The set screw is in the mounting stem part, you will only see it once you get the spin basket out.


William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#31 Stilltrying3

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 10:51 AM

Willie -

 

Error duly noted, you are my hero.

 

Your wisdom and experience is what

makes good at what you do.

 

I will buy a cold chisel today and to as you say.

 

Many thanks,

 

ST3


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#32 Stilltrying3

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 02:34 PM

Hi Guys, 

 

Willie was correct twice:

 

#1 I stripped 20-30% of the threads on the tranny post thingy

by trying to get the clamp nut off.

 

the clamp nut was turning, but not off the upper ??? pipe ???

that it is screwed to ---> Result, I had to grind off the nut

 

#2 This was also true:

Most likely problem is a slow upper agitate shaft seal leak and upper agitate shaft is frozen in upper transmission housing

 

So now the whole thing is apart, 2 tubs, tranny, etc

I will do an inventory and see what to order and ask you guys know / make suggestions

Probably:

** Two fan belts

** Upper clamp nut <it was was ground off)

** MAybe the Mounting Stem / Tub seal kit

** Tranny gasket

** Agitator Drive Shaft Seal

** more to follow

 

Many thanks for all your help

I'll also post helps and tips

 

Regards,

 

ST3


Edited by Stilltrying3, 31 January 2013 - 02:39 PM.

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#33 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 08:54 AM

You will definitely need the mounting stem/tub seal kit, (it contains a new agitator shaft seal permanently built into the mounting stem, change of sealing method - eliminated the spring/washer/clip/bell seal and replaced with double lip seal.  Kit also contains the new upper tub clamp nut).

 

New belts would be a good idea.  If you're going to separate the transmission to try and clean up the upper housing bushings, (I don't believe a new upper housing is available for the old style transmission), and maybe replace the agitator shaft, (I think you can still get a new agitator shaft), you will definitely need a new cover gasket but could most likely get away with blue RTV auto gasket silicone.

 

Will most likely need to change the oil in the transmission also but possibly not, the bushings and agitator shaft seizure could be just from worn out and gummed up bushings and not actually getting water into the transmission.

 

You could probably upgrade with a complete new Orbital transmission, (it would be a couple hundred dollars for a complete new transmission but would be worth putting into and rebuilding this machine even at $200-$300 in parts).   This machine if rebuilt will probably out last anything made now days.

 

The only bad point is this is one of the electronic LED control models, if I'm not mistaken, and if the control goes out I don't believe those are available anymore.  There are re-builders that maybe able to recondition the control if it fails.

 

EDITED TO ADD: Looks the touchpad and main controller boards are still available


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 01 February 2013 - 09:08 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#34 Stilltrying3

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 09:55 AM

Hi Guys,

 

Thanks much - Willie !

 

First order of business.

I am thinking I need to sand the rust in the outer tub

and paint some kind of waterproof rust sealer paint

to prevent further rust damage.

 

Comments and suggestions on the type of paint to use

will be much appreciated.

 

You guys are GREAT !

 

ST3

 

 

Attached Files


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#35 Stilltrying3

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 05:15 PM

Hi Guys,

 

My handyman neighbor has suggested slow drying two part epoxy paint for the tub rust issue.

I would think I would need to paint it first with rust ?oxidizer paint first to seal the rust

 

Comments appreciated

 

You guys are Life savers (+ $$$) 

 

ST3


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#36 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 08:42 AM

Mounting stem, tub seal kit ==> http://www.repaircli...elNumber=SE1000

 

Tub-Spin-Seal-6-2095720-00883638.jpg

 

As long as you're going to all this trouble, you should also install the tub bearing repair kit at the same ==> http://www.repaircli...elNumber=SE1000

 

Tub-Bearing-6-2040130-00814415.jpg

 

 

This page explains how to do it ==> http://fixitnow.com/...le-care-washer/



#37 Comstock_Services

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 04:02 PM

Just sand it a little to get the surface rust off, then use some black appliance paint to touch it up, they all rust at some point. Just touch it up and seal it with the new paint, and get her back to washing with the parts list willie gave you. I'd go with a new tranny also, as it will still outlast anything built today.


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#38 Stilltrying3

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 04:33 PM

Is appliance paint waterproof ?

i.e. won't the outer tub be full of water during the wash cycle ?

 

Thanks,

 

ST3


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#39 Comstock_Services

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 05:54 PM

 Yes the outer tub will be full of water during the wash. :rolleyes:  Not trying to be rude, but the purpose for sanding the rust out and repainting it is to keep the rust from spreading, at some point the outer tub will have rust in it again. I have no clue if rustolem appliance epoxy is water proof but thats what I use for all my touch ups.


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#40 Stilltrying3

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 10:12 PM

Hi Guys,

 

Here is my plan:

 

 

Lithium Grease

** Spindle shaft  Part NumberPS2020073

at the top where it connects inside the Plastic Agitator 

Part Number: PS58284

** Small Amount on the bottom of the Mounting Seal

Part NumberPS2351899

** Spindle Shaft Part NumberPS2018692

at the bottom where it connects with

the Transmission Drive Pulley  Part Number: PS2347248

** Brake Rotor Bearing Part Number: PS2016361

 

Sand Smooth, but not too much:

** Agitator Shaft Part Number: PS2020073

upper part where it had frozen/seized tight

not allowing the Agitator to spin

** Upper Tranny Post that the

Tub Bearing sleeve Part Number: PS2347235

slides over 

 

New / Replaced Parts:

 

12 Mt Stem Kit - Top
  8 Tub Bear Kit -  Bottom
29 Tranny Oil
  7 Tranny Gasket
16 Bottom Screw
12 Drive Belt
13 Pump Belt
11 Tranny Gear Pin
3 Agitator Shaft "O" ring 
 
Comments Appreciated.
 
Best to All,
 
ST3
 

 

 

 

 

thanks,

 

ST3


Edited by Stilltrying3, 22 February 2013 - 08:27 AM.

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