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harringg

Bosch SHE43f16UC won't drain

32 posts in this topic

My dishwasher (installed and functioning for ~3 years now) had water standing after the last wash cycle, and it made a loud humming/grinding noise during the end of the cycle.

 

I emptied the dishwasher of dishes, removed the filter basket near the drain pump (it was clean), started a new cycle with no dishes.  It continued to make that humming/grinding sound and wouldn't pull the water out.  Checked the lines to the sink and they were all clear

 

I used a shop vac to get the water out and then tried again to start the dishwasher, same results.  Followed the video on how to remove the drain pump and measured continuity and it was good.  Plugged back in the wire-harness and turned on the breaker (with the drain pump sitting out of the machine) and the impeller fired right up and spins fine, but is making that humming/grinding noise.

 

Other than ordering a new pump, anything to look at first?

 

Attached is a video of the pump running while outside of the dishwasher when i start the dishwasher.

IMG_1686.mov

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After further inspection, there is water in the armature and my drain line connected to the sink is not looped up to prevent drain-back from the sink (DIY install 3 years ago of the dishwasher).  

 

New pump ordered.  Will also fix the drain line positioning.  Lesson learned.   :thumbsup:

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Now I'm confused.  I've received the part and straight out of the box, it too has liquid on the armature (the circled region on picture below) just like the one I took out of the dishwasher.  Both do.

 

Is that in fact normal?  Or did my replacement one come with issues?

 

2013-01-31_18-21-09.png

Edited by harringg

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I believe that's oil in there. A motor still needs lubrication.

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So then my original part was not "water-logged" as I thought?  The drain hose from the sink, should be properly looped higher, but that's likely not water in that part of the pump?

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I replaced the pump with a new one, ran a quick wash (no dishes in there) and opened the door and there was hot water sitting in the bottom of the tub at the end of the cycle.

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/642239/1387293

 

Next suggestion?  :-)

 

Also, it's still "humming" like before, even though the cycle is done AND the door is open.  Will cut power at the circuit until I can isolate the next thing to check.

Edited by harringg

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Sounds like you have a stuck float. It may think it's flooding.

 

It wasn't understood from the last post that it was running when turned off.

Edited by tpoindexter

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Use your amp meter on every wire to determine which wire(component) has amperage causing the hum when the machine is off.

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Topics merged.  Please do not start a new topic for the same or continuing problem-- makes it difficult for others to follow the progression and potentially offer assistance.  

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Thanks for merging them.  Since it was marked answered (and at the time it appeared to be), I wasn't sure if the thread was still "active".

 

So, as mentioned above, I've got a new pump motor, and still have the same issues.  I've pulled the washer out, the pressure chamber assembly is clear (no obstructions), and I've tested the float switch and it's fine.  Common to Closed has continuity, and Common to Open has continuity when the blue activator switch is pressed and held.  And no continuity when released.

 

I see a replacement part for the float, but can't find it on the dishwasher.  So not sure if that's stuck to check my issues.

 

While I still hasn't solved my issues, the how to videos on this site are very good at their instructions to at least get me to this point and ruling out what the issue isn't.


To the earlier poster, the "humming" is the pump motor running (always on) even though it won't drain the water.

 

Maybe the float itself is the issue, but I can't seem to find where it's located.

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Would this part be something to look at?  There is standing water below the red lines I've drawn and standing water in the water line from the sink to the middle hose.  Which very well may be normal, I don't know.

 

Also, I did find the float and it's armature, and both are "working", no standing water near the float and the armature moves freely.

 

Since most of the obvious options have been ruled out, it may be time to return the pump, and to call in a repair tech.

 

Any last minute things that would be worth looking at before resorting to that?

 

 2013-02-03_15-40-02.png

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Use your amp meter on every wire to determine which wire(component) has amperage causing the hum when the machine is off.

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To clarify, even though i've determined the "humming" is actually just the drain pump running "all the time", I should still test wiring?  I'm willing to try that, but not clear on how to do that.

 

With the dishwasher pulled out from under the cabinet the 120V wires don't reach to power it on, when it's in place under the counter and wired up to the power main, which wires should I be testing?

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I mentioned the float because you said it was running even when you had the pump out and no water in it.

But, you have a pump that for whatever reason can't pump the water out even with a new pump.

These seem like different issues to me.

1) makes me think a clog, or valve

2) makes me think a electrical issue

Jumptrot is the pro. I'm just as confused at this point as you.

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Did you just have a garbage disposal recently installed?  Is your drain line possibly frozen? 

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Would this part be something to look at?  There is standing water below the red lines I've drawn and standing water in the water line from the sink to the middle hose.  Which very well may be normal, I don't know.

 

Also, I did find the float and it's armature, and both are "working", no standing water near the float and the armature moves freely.

 

Since most of the obvious options have been ruled out, it may be time to return the pump, and to call in a repair tech.

 

Any last minute things that would be worth looking at before resorting to that?

 

 2013-02-03_15-40-02.png

 

 

Your punchlist, please respond explicitly to each:

 

- In front of this assembly should be the float assembly with a gray plunger and red piston.  Move the gray plunger up and down a few times to make sure it isn't stuck in the up (flooded) position.  

 

- Make sure the basin under the dishwasher is actually bone dry.  

 

- Check to see if the styrofoam float and arm assembly in the basin is hung up, stuck, impaired, not moving freely, etc.  

 

- Remove the drain hose from the drain pump and blow through it.  Should clear and initial slug of water and then it should blow free.  

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Your punchlist, please respond explicitly to each:

 

- In front of this assembly should be the float assembly with a gray plunger and red piston.  Move the gray plunger up and down a few times to make sure it isn't stuck in the up (flooded) position.  

 

- Make sure the basin under the dishwasher is actually bone dry.  

 

- Check to see if the styrofoam float and arm assembly in the basin is hung up, stuck, impaired, not moving freely, etc.  

 

- Remove the drain hose from the drain pump and blow through it.  Should clear and initial slug of water and then it should blow free.  

 

1. it moves freely, up and down, and when moving it up, I hear it clicking the switch assembly

 

2. Completely dry to the touch, no standing water of any kind.  There is a small water stain, but it's been there for awhile

 

3. Float is intact and when moving the grey armature, it moves the red piston freely

 

4. No plugs in the line from the drain pump to the assembly unit with the switch

 

I've got everything back together, and made the mistake of removing the screws from the terminal block where the wiring connects.  They are loose now and won't hold the wires securely and will have to buy a new terminal block tomorrow.

 

Will report back with results after it's got power again.

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4. No plugs in the line from the drain pump to the assembly unit with the switch

 

 

Wrong direction.  I wanted you to go from the drain pump to the discharge: disposal, drain pipe, whatever it is in your configuration. 

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Sump connection under sink to back of dishwasher was empty of water.

 

Where the line connects to the back of the dishwasher (removed white square clip that held it in place) that line connects to the image in post #17, leftmost tube, and that's empty of water.

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You need to blow through that discharge tube from the drain pump.  Looks don't count.  Don't be squeamish-- I do this all the time and I've only gotten diarrhea twice... or twelve times... or maybe a couple hundred... hell, I don't remember, I crapped those brain cells out long ago.  

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oNCE HAD A PEICE OF BROKEN GLASS IN THE DISCHARGE HOSE,FROM PUMP TO DRAIN HOSE. ACTED LIKE A FLAPPER, SOMETIMES DRAINED , SOMETIMES NOT. TOOK ME FOR A LITTLE RIDE.JUST MY .02$.GOODLUCK!

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Time to call in the repair team.  It's been an overall slow process on my part, I was waiting for the terminal block to come from RepairClinic (and then find time to install it once it came), did that this morning, ran a quick wash and it counted down but nothing was happening (Start @ 32 Min, by 24 min, nothing in the tub), meaning no water was filling the tub.  Yes, water is turned on under the sink.

 

That being said, the pump is working again, I poured a glass of water in the dishwasher, cancelled the quick wash, and the water was pumped away.

 

Anything last minute to look for regarding the not filling with water issue before making a phone call to a local repair shop?  Was there another valve I may have closed on the dishwasher side that i forgot about?

 

Under sink: HW-Red Handle 1 (to sink, works), CW-Blue Handle1 (to sink, works), CW-Blue Handle tee'd to dishwasher (wide open, even tried "open/close" while waiting for the tub to fill in the event it was sticking).

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Sounds like a different issue now?

What fixed the problem of it not draining?

Did you blow through the discharge hose from the drain pump?

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Water will not fill if the door switch is bad or disconnected.

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