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Third heating element replaced in Samsung dryer...? Seems strange.


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10 replies to this topic

#1 narodsobe

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 11:33 AM

Posting a ponderable for you all on a fine Sunday. 

 

Have Samsung DV328(AEW-XAA). Last year (January) I replaced the heating element. Ten months prior to that my spouse replaced the heating element. When I did it I can affirm that the heating element that I pulled out of the unit was indeed fried and there was a break in one of the coils. 

 

Today, no heat in the dryer. Already planning the day tomorrow to pick up a new heating element. 

 

But really, here is the ponderable: what is the likelihood that you'd need to replace a heating element three times in this type of frequency? I only have one child, so it's not like I'm doing laundry for a football team here. 

 

My question is then: Am I putting tape on a situation where the heating element break is the manifestation of a problem, but not the real problem? If so...what's your guess on the source (correct power to the unit is my thinking). 

 

Thanks!

 

Tamara

 

 

 


--

Tamara 

at

Bad Dogs Farm, Walburg, Texas


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 11:47 AM

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
 $ 2.99 sometimes on sale
image_1255.jpg


.

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every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#3 narodsobe

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 01:07 PM

Yes, I was just about to do that because I see that this is a perennial first Q for dryer would be fixiters. Actually have a new hook up kit that I've been wanting to install, because I'm a bit retentive. So I pulled off the old vent. Air flow is good at the house exit. I've left the new vent kit off for now. Turned on time dry (the programs haven't worked in a long time--I only time dry with this thing--and maybe that's an indicator of the rest of the problem). Temp is 71.3 F. So it's definitely not the heat level I would wish for. 

 

The good news is that it's a great opportunity to vacuum out the back of that space--after a year it's definitely time. 

 

And it's also time for me to figure out my next step. Thank you for posting this idea. 

 

I've got the service manual also and am thinking about the thermistor/thermometer. Wouldn't the machine be throwing error codes, however (per the service manual), if something were amiss? (Mind you: I'm not super keen on replacing the PCB. I'm not that nuts. Well, at least I think I"m not.)

 

Time to watch some youtube in the spirit of trying to plan the next step. Sigh. 


--

Tamara 

at

Bad Dogs Farm, Walburg, Texas


#4 dimitri77565

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 01:39 PM

when u replaced heating element  , was it just the element or the complete housing with the high limit thermostat & the thermal fuse?

 

If not, well  that's your problem. .  Probably your high limit or thermal fuse are not tripping in time to save the element

 

http://www.repaircli...5001119/1122501



#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 01:51 PM

OR the Samsung version
DC97-14486A
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1795935

 

Duct-Assembly-DC97-14486A--01307610.jpg


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#6 narodsobe

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 01:53 PM

I believe it was just the element. This part was what I used and it's the same as what was replaced prior to that.

 

Thank you for the next set of ponderables. I was thinking that there had to be something in addition / instead of the thermal element because of the issue in not being able to use any of the programs (only time dry), as well as the multiple thermal element replacements. 

 

So a bad hi limit or thermal fuse can cause the thermal element to blow because...because they don't effectively regulate the heat and that means that the thermal element goes unchecked / probably burns too hot? 

 

And so I want the whole thing then, the element (linked above) and the assembly...?



In that picture it appears that the element is encased inside. Even better. 


--

Tamara 

at

Bad Dogs Farm, Walburg, Texas


#7 dimitri77565

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 04:37 PM

Sensei , I goofed posted maytag element number . thanks for catching that!



#8 narodsobe

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 05:59 PM

Thank you both for posting anything! I'm all set to get that assembly in the AM. 


--

Tamara 

at

Bad Dogs Farm, Walburg, Texas


#9 narodsobe

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 10:20 PM

The heat works. There was indeed a snap in the coil of the element. Thank you both!


--

Tamara 

at

Bad Dogs Farm, Walburg, Texas


#10 suampman

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 11:00 PM

Did you check your input voltage. Extra voltage, extra current, shorter element life. Just a thought.



#11 narodsobe

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 08:53 AM

Three (four) months later, all continues to be well. I haven't got a multimeter but I've been interested in picking one up. Now have excuse. Thanks everyone!


--

Tamara 

at

Bad Dogs Farm, Walburg, Texas





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