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Asko model 20004/20005 heating element confusion


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16 replies to this topic

#1 rwfisher

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 10:43 AM

Has anyone opened up an Asko model 20004/20005 lately?  The parts diagram (and a search on repairclinic.com) turn up two heating elements...a 1200W element and a 1800W element.  Does this washer use two elements, or did they offer a 'high power' element for folks w/cold, cold water? 

 

I'm trying to minimize the number of times I pull the (*&(*!#$ thing out of the closet, disconnect the hose, etc. otherwise i'd just open it up and look.  It doesn't help that the dryer is stacked on top of it either.

 

Should I just order the 1800W element?


Edited by rwfisher, 28 January 2013 - 11:25 PM.


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#2 rwfisher

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 05:32 PM

Went ahead and ordered the 1800W element....will post what i find out....



#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 06:59 PM

Went ahead and ordered the 1800W element....

 

Heater element
The heater elements are of 1200 W and 1800 W rating respectively.
Whether both elements are connected (giving a total heater power of 3000 W), or just the 1800 W heater,

depends on the power supply arrangement (voltage and number of phases).

See Power Supply, below.

 

1 phase, 230 V 10 A   1800w

 

Machines Single-phase 16 A or 3-phase 10 A also have an 1200 W heater element.

1 phase, 230 V 16 A   1800w & 1200w
3 phase, 400 V 10 A   1800w & 1200w

 


 


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#4 dimitri77565

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 11:51 PM

Standard stock in my truck is an Oven dolly .  Works good ay resting dryer on top & roll away.  but yes still a pain job.



#5 rwfisher

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 11:56 PM

We'll be relocating these to the basement in the next year or so (provided they last that long).  I fully intend to make that installation more 'plug and play' than the closet install where they are now.



#6 rwfisher

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 01:03 PM

Ok, verified that there are TWO heating elements.  Disconnected the leads and tested resistance....~32 ohms on the 1800 W element and ~40 ohms on the 1200 W element.  So the elements might not be the problem after all....but I'll pull them out and see how much scale is on there.....

 

Will have to open up top of machine now to see if there's a circuit diagram.  I'm going to trace the wiring and see if there's (hopefully) a relay involved. 

 

Update:  the relay looks like it's working, but the heating elements aren't getting any current.  I'll check the thermistor to make sure it's good, but according to the docs i've seen a bad thermistor would throw a separate code. 

 

Hopefully it's not something on the main board.  Looking at the circuit diagram (which is for a 600 series), there's a controller that controls the elements in addition to the relay so I'm guessing there's a MOSFET or some other power switching component on a board somewhere......time to start looking for THAT.....


Edited by rwfisher, 02 February 2013 - 04:50 PM.


#7 rwfisher

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 12:35 AM

Think I have the answer...there's one leg of the heating relay that has very intermittent contact. Tried contact cleaner...didn't help. Will replace relay and see what happens.

#8 Scottthewolf

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 01:10 AM

We'll be relocating these to the basement in the next year or so (provided they last that long).  I fully intend to make that installation more 'plug and play' than the closet install where they are now.

When you're finally sick of repairing the pains in the Askos, you can get a "real" full size washer and dryer.


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#9 rwfisher

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 01:48 PM

When you're finally sick of repairing the pains in the Askos, you can get a "real" full size washer and dryer.

Problem with that theory is 'the devil you know'....from what i've been reading on the forums here there's not much consensus about what brands would make a viable alternative. 



#10 Scottthewolf

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 02:47 PM

Problem with that theory is 'the devil you know'....from what i've been reading on the forums here there's not much consensus about what brands would make a viable alternative. 

Whirlpool top load washer with an agitator and the matching Whirlpool dryer with the lint screen on the top of the dryer WITHOUT electronic controls.  If you MUST buy a front loader, the full size Whirlpool Duet front load washer and the matching dryer.  I do not reccommend front load washers, though.


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#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 09:00 AM

Whirlpool top load washer with an agitator and the matching Whirlpool dryer with the lint screen on the top of the dryer WITHOUT electronic controls.  If you MUST buy a front loader, the full size Whirlpool Duet front load washer and the matching dryer.  I do not reccommend front load washers, though.

 

 

They aren't making the Whirlpool Direct Drive washer anymore but you may be able to find a used one and fix it up.  I agree with the dryer recommendation.  However, I would avoid the Whirlpool Duet washer-- far too many drum bearing failures.  

 

We've used a front loader for 16 years, love 'em.  We're a family of five on a low productivity well and the front loader makes a huge difference with water usage (14 gallons per wash load vs. 56 / load with an old-skool top loader).  Clothes last longer, too, because you don't have an agitator yanking on them.  Our old Gibson front loader was used every day, sometimes twice a day, and lasted over 15 years with just one problem:  broke the plastic door switch actuator on the door.  Cost me $0.59 for the part plus $8.97 shipping from RepairClinic to replace it.  Recently replaced the old war horse with a Chinese-made GE front loader because we got $500 off for buying it through Home Depot's website-- they made me a deal I couldn't refuse!  Would have preferred to get a Korean-made LG front loader-- sweet machines, very low incidence of catastrophic drum bearing failure.  Even the Whirlpool Duets aren't made in Ameedika-- like it or not, it's a world market now.  

 

Most of the techs today who don't like front loaders don't like the electronic controls they need for motor control and the superfluous controls for the user interface.   Yes, you need to be able to read a schematic and use a meter and to read a tech sheet to troubleshoot most front loader problems.  They're a little more complicated than the plug n' chug Whirlpool direct drive top loader washer.  But they're more expensive to replace and therefore the repairs usually pay better.  Repairing front loading washing machines is helping me put my daughter through collitch.  So, please, buy a front loader!  



#12 rwfisher

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 09:40 AM

I too prefer the front loaders based on efficiency. Been happy for the most part with the asko, even if it is a bit small...it's not that bad to work on for the most part, especially considering the thing is around 20 yrs old. We inherited it and its dryer brother when we bought our house, and the circuit board inside the washer is dated 1989.....

When the time comes to replace it I'll be looking for a front loader that's reliable and user serviceable (for when it does break). I looked over the service manuals for a few lg machines and they look reasonable. I'll browse the other brands as well. I'm not above installing an access panel if necessary (which brand was it that did away with those?)

Thank you sensai for the words of wisdom in your newsletter...they are the path to appliance balance.

 

And for the record...i'd much rather try to deal with electrical issues than bearings.  Replaced more than a few (not in washers) and it's usually a PITA.


Edited by rwfisher, 04 February 2013 - 09:46 AM.


#13 Scottthewolf

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 10:58 AM

You're wrong, Samurai, the New Duets ARE made in Clyde, Ohio, USA.  They are no longer made in Germany. The drum bearing failures won't happen as much now.


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#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 12:38 PM

Oh, the same place they're making that wonderful vertical modular washer with the plastic splutch that doesn't actually wash clothes? Whew! Good to know!

And, BTW, they're only assembled in Clyde, OH, from parts made overseas.

#15 Scottthewolf

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 07:51 PM

Yeah, I'm not thrilled about the vertical modular washer.  I will be repairing and DEMANDING that my customers keep their old Whirlpool direct drive top load washers  as well as keeping my own direct drive washer until the parts can no longer be found anywhere.

 

It is so sad that both Maytag and Whirlpool used to be the most sensible and reliable appliance manufacturers to deal with and their appliances used to be so easy to repair, but now it seems  they are building junk that they actually want to last no more than 5  years. Maybe I will just go into appliance scrapyards and get as many as the old appliances as I can, start rebuilding them and sell them on E-Bay.


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#16 rwfisher

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 10:24 AM

It is done. problem was the relay...took it apart after installing the new one and wow....the years have not been kind to the contacts.

 

Relay part link ==> http://www.repaircli...delNumber=20004

 

Relay-8064179-00879998.jpg

 

Contacts shouldn't look like this:

Attached File  image.jpeg   56.39KB   0 downloads

 

or this:

Attached File  image1.jpeg   39.13KB   1 downloads


Edited by rwfisher, 13 February 2013 - 09:17 PM.
Added part link.


#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 06:52 PM

Domo for posting the outcome on this one, rw!   :thumbsup:






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