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btenpin

790.78659601 Kenmore gas range delayed ignition

16 posts in this topic

Not sure I have an actual issue or nut loose at control.  

 

Customer complaining she can smell Carbon Monoxide (I know you can't smell it,but can't convince her of that)

 

We had replaced bake igniter a year ago work fine until now,  checked amp draw 3.2 amps proper ignition noted.  I cleaned enough hair from under unit to knit another dog for her, advised to try and advise.  She called back her and her kiddies having migranes when stove on.

 

Went back out same findings good amp draw and proper ignition, being the thourogh technician I am I waited until unit reached temp.  Interesting finding, once unit was hot it was taking bake burner 20-30 seconds to lite after gas released.  

 

I played with air shutter trying to get the magic mix to no avail.  In despiration I "tweeked" igniter bracket to move igniter closer to burner.  Wala!! burner lites instantaniously when gas is released, all is good in my world.

 

One month customer calls back, getting migranes again.  I have looked for any bulletins on this and another site no joy.  I have to go back and take a look, but I have no idea.  Possibly new bake burner??  Open to suggestions.

 

btenpin

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

It might not be the range.
I had a similar problem with odor and even burn your eyes. Turns out they had just painted (oil base paint)wall, and stained trim.
When the fumes came in contact with flame it would cause a reaction that produced a strong smell that would give you a headache.
What are they cleaning with?
Are they using a varnish, lacquers anywhere in the house?
Does smell start when floor, range, or other items are cleaned?

Is the smell always present?
Anyways, just make sure they aren't cleaning with something that's reacting with flame to cause the smell.

If you don't have a way to check for carbon monoxide the gas company will come out right away to check for something like that. Have her call them so they can tag out the range or let them tell her it's not carbon monoxide.

On something like this I'd rather have them red tag the range or clear it. Especially if owner isn't believing you.

Edited by tpoindexter

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tpoindexter has some good suggestions. You should also check for a gas leak at the oven valve(and other valves) with a soap solution. I like BigBlu.

Stop by a home improvement store and pick up a battery operated carbon monoxide detector and check for a signal when you are there.

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If you could borrow a Gas / Carbon Monoxide tester / sensor meter . . .

OR could also be a dead mouse / and / or mouse urine  in the Oven's insulation . . . :whistling:

only noticeable when Oven is warm . . .

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I originally thought about the above issues.  Familular with odors related to oil based paints, varnishes and soulvents. Condition on noted when oven is 

 

When oven was cool it lit burner properly, but when oven heated up ignition became delayed.  That's when I "tweeked" igniter bracket.  Unit has been working properly for last 2 months.  Customer was watching and understood what issue was.  She is now reporting that it's been taking about 30 seconds after hearing gas flow for burner to actually ignite once ovens preheated.

 

Kenmore mod indicates it's a Frigidaire, looks like a GE.

 

My thought was to replace bake burner I guess.  Was looking for bulletin on issue, have bee unable to locate any.

 

I played with this with all the surface burners on thinking it may have been regulator issue no fluctuation in burners or difference in ignition with surface on or off.

 

??? 

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Sorry, I thought the ignition problem was resolved an her only complaint now was odors. Sounds like the ignition is still a problem.

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Clean the burner holes and pilot holes on the burner tube at the ignitor location.

Could be a white ash buildup or corrosion.

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... We had replaced bake igniter a year ago

have they used Self-Clean much ?  :nono:

That can wear-out Ignitors

 

note: size of Heat Shield

exposed Ignitor Element

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1197384

 

original Ignitor

Oven-Igniter-316489400-01031310.jpg

 

Re-use Heat Shield from old igniter.

Caution! The Element EXTREMELY fragile.

Splice wires with ceramic wire nuts.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=3377

 

Oven-Igniter-12400035-01404670.jpg

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I would suggest, in addition to cleaning the burner, to inspect the ignitor closely for hairline cracks/residue that influence the ohm value of the ignitor AS THE IGNITOR FIRST HEATS. Remember the ignitor is a resistor AND an Ignitor. We all know that self-cleaning ovens "bake off" to clean. For this reason, look at the ignitor closely and recheck the valve coils.

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Checking the ignitor's resistance is merely preliminary and is not diagnostically conclusive; something can check good on ohms and still be bad (failing under load).  For this reason, the only definitive test for an ignitor is to measure the current draw thru the ignitor.  In this case, you're looking for a minimum of 3.2 amps.  

 

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I need to schedule another visit to check it out.  The ignior was drawing 3.3 amps on last visit, but I'm leaning toward relpacing with OEM ignitor per Sensi's post with out cage.  I used 12400035 which has cage. Will let you know once had chance to see it again.

 

Thanks for the input

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relpacing with OEM ignitor per Sensi's post with out cage.  I used 12400035 which has cage. Will let you know once had chance to see it again.

 

 

The cage doesn't affect the functionality of the ignitor one bit-- it's there to mount the ignitor to the burner tube.  

 

The 12400035 is a good, general-purpose replacement ignitor for all flat hot surface ignition valves.  

 

If the wire isn't properly positioned in the amp meter jaws, you'll get erroneous readings.  Also need to let it heat up about 30 seconds to get a stabilized reading.

 

Check the continuity of the gas valve bimetal.  If open, you need a new valve. 

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... The cage doesn't affect the functionality of the ignitor one bit-- it's there to mount the ignitor to the burner tube.

I thought if the cage was there, it may tend to block the initial Gas flow while lighting  .

(depending on the placement of the holes in the Burner Tube)

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Highly unlikely and, if proven to be the case, would indicate a faulty gas valve-- not opening all the way to allow sufficient fuel flow.

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The no cage thing I think is just another Friggy cheap out, a penny or two less metal on each part and makes the ignitor end more accessible to damage thus selling more parts!!!!

 

I would never use one of these unshielded ignitors!!!!

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Hard time getting the customer on phone, gave optinons.  Customer is going to look at new unit 

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