8 replies to this topic

[admranger]

Ok, so I post about the dryer vent cleaning and the washer must be jealous at all the attention.

 

Washer is now throwing F9 codes and the frequency of the codes is increasing (2 for 2 today).

 

I did a search on F9 and found four previous posts, all with essentially the same response (and the same items the job aid below says to check).

 

I have the Job Aid L-68 (p/n 8178076) and have performed all the tests that I could.  - I have not taken the pressure switch out to check the hose or "proper operation".  I don't know how to check for proper operation and the job aid is silent on this as far as I can tell.  I suppose Occam's razor applies here...

 

- I've checked the drain hose and it is clear.

 

- I checked the wire harness connections to the drain pump, pressure switch, and CCU with my trust Fluke multimeter.

 

- I cleaned the drain pump filter (there is no boot to collect 'gookus', just a hard plastic 'filter').  It had minor gookus buildup.  Very minor.

 

- Given that the drain pump will pump just fine when you go to the drain/spin mode, I don't think it is it (though it ohms out at 16 ohms instead of 15 ohms with no power).

 

- I ran the "Diagnostic Test" on page 608 and all functioned well.

 

My wife said water was about 1/4 of the way up the clear front of the washer the one time she noticed it while it was still running.

 

Clothes have been a bit wetter than normal coming off the spin cycle, especially hand washables (soaking, water all over the floor when you take stuff out wet -- low spin setting).

 

The washer is level front to back and side to side.

 

Hopefully it is the pressure switch as that's the last thing I can test, assuming someone knows how to test it, etc.

 

Thanks for your help.

Edited by admranger, 31 January 2013 - 11:10 PM.

[dimitri77565]

Possibly a water inlet valve or main board.  sounds like the water valve stays on, thus water 1/4 over the window.  These machines I have seen my self still filling up even though the pressure switch is disconnected.  That's why I think its not the switch.

[admranger]

Possibly a water inlet valve or main board.  sounds like the water valve stays on, thus water 1/4 over the window.  These machines I have seen my self still filling up even though the pressure switch is disconnected.  That's why I think its not the switch.

 

Ok, so it is parts changing mode time?  I ohm'd the cold and hot water valve solenoids and they both ohm'd out at ~800 ohms, right on spec.  I've replaced the front panel a few years ago.  Is the CCU the main board that is bad if it isn't the water inlet valve?

 

Maybe I'm thinking of the wrong thing.  Do you mean the flowmeter?  I see a water inlet on the diagram with the front of the cabinet off, but I don't see anything labelled "water inlet valve".

 

Thanks for clarifying things for me.

Edited by admranger, 01 February 2013 - 01:37 AM.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Start by checking the pressure switch.  You can do this right at the pressure switch connector on the CCU, page 5-2 in the Job aid.  You're looking for the connections called out there to be made at the different fill levels in drum.

 

You can check the water inlet valve by seeing if it's still letting water in when the voltage to it is cut off.  You can check the voltage either right at the valve or on the water inlet valve connector on the CCU, page 5-3 in the Job Aid.  

[certified tech group 51]

Check the pressure hose for  a hole????

[admranger]

Start by checking the pressure switch.  You can do this right at the pressure switch connector on the CCU, page 5-2 in the Job aid.  You're looking for the connections called out there to be made at the different fill levels in drum.

 

You can check the water inlet valve by seeing if it's still letting water in when the voltage to it is cut off.  You can check the voltage either right at the valve or on the water inlet valve connector on the CCU, page 5-3 in the Job Aid.  

 

I had checked the pressure switch at empty and level 1.  It ohm'd out at 0 ohms (the correct reading) at both readings testing the appropriate test points.  I didn't know how to test for Suds detect or overflow, so unless I catch the machine in the F9 condition again, I don't know how to do it.  

 

For the water inlet solenoids, they both checked out a 800 ohms (the correct reading) at the appropriate test points.  You mentioned voltage check, but my job aid only talks about resistance values.

 

Info I forgot to include in my original message:  The F9 condition only happens during the rinse cycle.  We use 'extra rinse' a lot b/c my wife has sensitive skin and any soap residue causes problems...  Don't know if the extra rinse button changes anything other than an additional rinse cycle.

 

 

Check the pressure hose for  a hole????

 

I have not done this.  I guess just disconnect from the pressure switch and gently blow or suck on it and see if there is resistance?  I have a vacuum gauge pump thing for car repair, I could use it if that makes more sense.  What do you think?

Edited by admranger, 02 February 2013 - 12:28 PM.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Disconnect the pressure hose from the pressure switch on one end and then from the pressure on the drum at the other end and check it for holes.   Usually they are visible, if they exist.   This video shows doing that on a GE front loader-- different machine but same idea:

 

 

 

Can also have gookus in the pressure dome from using non-HE detergent.  

[admranger]

So 5 loads of laundry later no F9 code.

 

The intermittent nature of the issue is the most perplexing.

 

I haven't checked the pressure hose yet.  Did a bunch of other chores since it was cooperating today.

Edited by admranger, 03 February 2013 - 10:00 PM.

[Scottthewolf]

I have had a few of these washers where the water valve plungers don't close all the way even though voltage isn't present at the solenoids.  This happens from crud from the water getting by the screens in the valve causing the plungers to stick in the open position.