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kenmore 417.44092500 needs new main control board?


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6 replies to this topic

#1 simmerhawaii

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 01:24 PM

hey there...

kenmore front load washer runs 2-4 minutes on any cycle, works fine.

machine then stops and resests to start of cycle. no beeps. no error codes.

tried uplugging and replugging unit, no change.

 

have replaced main control board previously for different issue.

wondering if that same fix will solve my problem again.

 

wanted to get insight from the masters before i order any part.

 

thanks in advance for your help with this, and thanks again for all the help i've gotten in the past.... you guys rock.

 



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#2 Wingerman

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 08:24 AM

On this Fridgidaire Affinity it would help to know the serial number. Why was the board replaced the first time?--that would help also. First, take a look at the Tech Sheet inside unit. Then run diagnostic test. Take a close look at the wiring harness going to the motor control board. Look for loose connections inside the harness or corrosion. If it won't go into diagnostic mode, then either it's not sensing an error (external input missing--loose wire, component failure) or the board is bad. The motor "black box" board needs to be tested for voltages IN and OUT. Also, an bad door switch on these throws the power off to the control. Let us know.


Edited by Wingerman, 04 February 2013 - 08:32 AM.


#3 simmerhawaii

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 02:44 AM

serial number looks like AC53017626, but the front of the sequence is pretty faded, could be XC53017626

i cannot remember why the board was replaced previously, but my wife says the machine would not run at all, and i think after we got to the control board there was either corrosion, or ants, or both....

 

beyond that, since i wrote the details of what was happening with the machine on sunday, which is when the machine had issues, it has gone back to working just fine.

 

none the less, i ran the diagnostic test and got E48, board thinks door PTC circuit is closed.

i ran diagnostic test 9 again, and the door is locked during spin....

 

on the forum from page http://applianceguru...rum2/12404.html i found in 10th post:

'test 9 ---  remove the door lock assembly and measure the resistence of the PTC...if open or shorted then replace the door lock assembly...If it measure around 1500 ohm, you have a defective control board'

i followed the thread and it gets pretty techy about testing.....

 

your thoughts on this great master of the laundry machines?



#4 Wingerman

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 07:07 AM

Did you check the wiring harness closely? You've got an intermittent condition. These units are known for wiring harness problems. Swaping parts is not going to fix it if you have wiring problems. Ohm out the harness between connections if in doubt. A continuity test will indicate open and closed wiring runs. In addition, don't forget to look at the wiring connectors where they plug into the board; these will pull enough to make the machine work sometimes.  Did you ohm out the door switch?   


Edited by Wingerman, 05 February 2013 - 07:10 AM.


#5 simmerhawaii

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 08:01 PM

i've done none of what you mentioned.

i am a kook, rookie, newbie who is trying to keep my machine running....

 

you say to 'ohm out the harness' and 'run a continutiy test'.

i'd do both of those, but, don't know how to...

i do have the gadget that will test for ohm's and resitance, but what harness are you refering too, and where is it and what type of reading am i looking for? how exactly do i do that?

 

sorry to be such a kook, but remember, i am just the apprentice, and that's being generous describing my familiariarty with things....

 

also with some more info, i could run a continuity test, but pretend i have know idea how to, or where to, do that, and after some explanation, i will forge ahead.

same on the door switch....

 

i need step by step, what's standard procedure for you is a mystery to me....

 

fixitnow has helped me several times in the past, and i am sure this will be no different, though i do fee like i need to apologize for not being more adept at what's considered the basics.....

 

thanks once again for all your help and insight.



#6 Wingerman

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 08:47 PM

If you are not familar with basic measurements using a meter, I would suggest you go to the Downloads section and download and read "Electrical Theory and Diagnosis of Major Appliances." This is esssential, "must know" information before more advanced problems can be dealt with. Then, with the aid of the service manual, you can advance to a deeper critical analysis of the machine.


Edited by Wingerman, 07 February 2013 - 08:50 PM.


#7 tpoindexter

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 09:26 PM

Did you check the wiring harness closely? You've got an intermittent condition. These units are known for wiring harness problems. Swaping parts is not going to fix it if you have wiring problems. Ohm out the harness between connections if in doubt. A continuity test will indicate open and closed wiring runs. In addition, don't forget to look at the wiring connectors where they plug into the board; these will pull enough to make the machine work sometimes.  Did you ohm out the door switch?   

 

 

Check the wires where they go into connectors. Don't pull too hard but make sure they are connected good. Use a fash light if you need to look into them where the wires go and and look for, corrosion, discoloration, .... anything that might indicate a bad connection. You don't need a meter to do that.

 

check this link out also.

 


Edited by tpoindexter, 07 February 2013 - 09:32 PM.

Test




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