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Amana BB120te Fridge 38 degrees Freezer 24 degrees

Amana BB120te freezer

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21 replies to this topic

#1 pebee2

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 11:57 AM

My Amana BB120te bottom freezer fridge, is maintaining a Fridge temperature of 38 degrees, and the  Freezer only goes down to 24 degrees. 

 

Recent history:

A month ago this unit was not defrosting.  The adaptive control circuit board was bad and replaced.    At that time, since the unit is 16 years old and we want to get a few more years out of it, the defrost thermostat, defrost heating element, and door seals were also replaced.    Everything was good with the world until last week!.

 

Now, the freezer does not get cold enough.

What I've done:

1. checked the temperature control and it passed the resistance tests.

2. checked to see if the condenser was on, it is,  and if it was hot to touch, it's not.

3. checked to see if condenser fan is working, it is.

4. checked to see if evaporator fan is working, it is.

5. checked defrost cycle, it works.  

6. checked door switches, lights go out in fridge and freezer.

7. drank a six pack out of frustration last night.

8. asking for ideas today.

 

Thanks in advance,

Paul

 

 



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 12:02 PM

check frost pattern of Evaporator Coils ..

post pictures if not completely, lightly, evenly frosted


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#3 Comstock_Services

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 12:06 PM

I assume that you mean the compressor, not the condenser, was on and not hot to the touch, was it at least warm?

 Have you checked the door seals? to be sure that they are tightly sealing no gaps anywhere.

 

Can you post a full model number, and the MFG Number from the model and serial tag?


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#4 pebee2

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 01:30 PM

Thanks for the prompt replies from RegUS_Patoff and Comstock_Services.

 

Yes, I meant compressor, and it was warm and on.

 

Attached are pics of evap coils and model/make info from fridge.

 

Let me know if there is anything else I can provide to help diagnose the problem.

 

Thanks,

Paul 

 

 

Attached Files



#5 pebee2

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 01:36 PM

PS:  I forgot to mention, I have no idea when the last defrost cycle ran.    Also I rechecked the door seals and they are tight.



#6 Comstock_Services

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 01:52 PM

Looks to me as if at this moment from thses pictures you have a sealed system problem, but you will need to wait a couple more hours to verify this. Just check the frost pattern again, if it hasnt changed, to where the frost is uniform across the entire evaporator, you will need to find the reason that the refrigerant is not cycling through the evaporator. Possibly a leak or restriction. :wacko:


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#7 Scottthewolf

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 04:27 PM

Both Amana and Frigidaire seem to be well known for developing leaks at the evaporator, as is Sub Zero on their older units.


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#8 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 07:07 PM

Are you 100 percent cross your heart and hope to die positive your compressor is running? It could be warm from trying to start and you may feel residual vibration from the fan. Temporarily stop the fan by sticking a cloth in it. If you still feel slight vibration or hear the distinctive whine of the compressor and several hours have passed... you more than likely have a sealed system problem.

PS: Here's a good "sizzle sells" tip... get to know, identify and hear that distinctive compressor whine even amidst other kitchen background noises. Although some newer compressors are very quiet most make a whining sound. if you can quickly pick out the sound or lack thereof, you'll impress the heck out of your customers and/or significant other. Walk in, listen for the fans..if running but no compressor sound or vice versa..say something like.. "hmmmm, your compressor (or evap fan as the case may be) doesn't sound like it's running." They will think you are a some sort of refrigerator whisperer. If you are correct, they will hold you in high esteem. If not, they will still understand that you know when the compressor and fans should be running. Always learn and apply your craft but sell yourself as well.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 08 February 2013 - 07:29 PM.

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#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 07:11 PM

.... Temporarily stop the fan by sticking a cloth in it.

try not to bend the Blades ...

OR

temporarily prevent the Fan from running by sticking a cloth in it while it's OFF


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#10 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 07:32 PM

try not to bend the Blades ...
OR
temporarily prevent the Fan from running by sticking a cloth in it while it's OFF

I've never had a blade bend. Torque is too low. Use bathroom tissue if you must. If you pull the plug, you have to deal with start up times etc. Btw it is a gradual slow down when I do it. No worries

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 08 February 2013 - 07:45 PM.

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#11 pebee2

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 08:00 PM

I'll try the suggestions to stop the fan to be 100 percent cross my heart and hope to die positive the compressor is running.

 

I am curious though, would there be any frost on the evaporator coils if the compressor was not running?    (See photos above please)



#12 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 08:10 PM

Is that frost in the middle of the evap or light reflection? I cannot tell. If that is frost then that is a very odd pattern and would suggest your defrost system has gone haywire. But to answer your question, no, unless it is frost that hasn't melted since last time compressor was active.

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#13 pebee2

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 10:27 PM

The frost is present on the upper right hand are in the picture including the defrost thermostat .  That is light reflection in the center area of the evap from the camera flash .  

 

The defrost cycle ran this afternoon so tomorrow I'll look at the evap again for the frost pattern.  If it looks any different I'll post a picture.

 

I suspect a call to a pro for service  will be one of the first things I do in the morning.

 

Thanks for your answers and help with this.  



#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 10:43 PM

... The frost is present on the upper right hand are in the picture including the defrost thermostat . 

If there's any frost, it should cover the entire Evaporator evenly ..

if not, then chances are, there's a system leak which may cost a few hundred dollars to repair


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#15 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 07:36 AM

Calling a pro in is just going to cost you a service call fee for them to tell you that it is a sealed system problem and going to cost big money to fix.

 

All the money you already threw into my have to be write off at this time unless you want to put another $200-$300 plus into it.

 

I'm really surprised that you are getting down to 24 degrees in the freezer with just that ice ball at the evaporator inlet unless  you just developed a major leak and the temps are still warming up and it's only still 24 degrees because of all the still somewhat frozen food working like big blocks of ice.


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#16 pebee2

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 01:48 PM

Once again, thanks for all of the responses. 

 

Everyone seems to agree that there is a sealed system problem and will be expensive to fix.   My bride is now shopping for a new fridge. 

 

In the mean time, the defrost cycle continues to operate.   In an effort to reduce the work the compressor is doing to maintain the freezer and fridge temp, does it make sense to disconnect the defrost heater?  If yes, do I just undo the connections to the heater or do I need to something else?



#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 06:07 PM

It's usually a 25 minute Defrost cycle time,

OR until Defrost Terminator Switch on Evaporator "opens" at about 40F,

which wouldn't be a very long time in your case ...


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#18 Comstock_Services

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 11:17 AM

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but disconnecting the defrost heater, will not change anything, your evap should be frosted evenly. Reg is correct, approxamately every 8 hours the unit will go into defrost, but as long as it comes out of defrost there is really not a problem, with the defrost system. At about 40 degrees F it will open the defrost thermostat, and shut the heater down, to avoid burning up the cabinet, or the evaporator. In your case with the *leak of refregerant the compressor should be starting to get warmer, as Master Willie said, it could also be warm from trying to start, and not running. I thought I read that you checked with the Condenser fan motor stopped, and that it was still running. I stand by my original comment that you have either a leak or a restriction, in the sealed system, as long as the compressor is *running*.

 

Sorry for the post being so long.


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#19 pebee2

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 04:54 PM

Thanks to all of you for your advice and efforts to help me. 

 

No use kicking a dead horse, so we will be going shopping for a new fridge tonight.  



#20 SANTA

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 10:39 PM

:beach:   You could bring your freezer stuff to my house.

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