Edited by mmoore5553, 09 February 2013 - 12:05 AM.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 12:05 AM
Posted 09 February 2013 - 01:17 AM
oh it makes the ice fine as there was tons of ice in the ice bucket. So much that it was frozen together. I will replace the water inlet value tomorrow if that is what you think also.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 09:56 AM
If it makes plenty of ice there's no need to replace the water inlet valve.
You need to make sure the ice dispenser door is closing and not staying open. If it doesn't close warm room air will cause water on top of the ice and then it'll freeze together when the unit comes out of defrost.
Make sure door seals are sealing.
Edited by tpoindexter, 09 February 2013 - 10:00 AM.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 10:39 AM
I am confused on which door you are talking about. Is this the door on the refrigerator or the door on ice tray ?
Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:11 AM
Door Seal is good and unable to pull it out without a tad of force. The ice tray it is just plastic with no seal.
Also how often is it suppose to make ice ? I just dumped all out to make sure it is working. Also i do not see the fingers that i usually see up at all. I can take a picture if you want. How do i see if that is frozen shut ? Also should i do a jumper on what T and H to rotate it ?
I did replace water inlet valve since i had that part already bought.
Edited by mmoore5553, 09 February 2013 - 11:13 AM.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:23 AM
When you put you cup to the ice dispenser and push it to dispense ice there is a door (flap), up behind the dispenser lever that opens to allow ice to be dispensed. If this stays open the ice will get moisture on top of it and freeze together.
Open the freezer door, look where the ice goes through the door. you will see it. Make sure it's fully closing.
Edited by tpoindexter, 09 February 2013 - 11:24 AM.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:29 AM
Yep it is fully close. I would never thought to check that. Thank you. Well i guess I will just wait and see what happens.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 02:40 PM
This is how I would tackle your problem, it may not be elegant but it works for me.
First I would see if there is any obvious signs of problems like incomplete ice cubes, frost build up around the door or ice maker chute. This would give me a clue that the problem may be related to outside air. If not frost, as in your case, I may only do a cursory glance at the ice chute door, gasket and sealing capability of the freezer door. I do this on all fridge calls anyway. More than likely there is no air leak if I don't see frost. I then quickly see if the freezer door closes okay and engages the light switch.
Since I did not see any frost, my main focus would be on the ice maker and water valve. There is hopefully a perceptible leak so then I would start a harvest cycle with the ice maker. Most of the time If no frost is present, I start a harvest cycle even before I check the door, gaskets etc as mentioned in the previous paragraph since it's just a cursory check and I can complete it before the water valve engages. Btw with regards to your question about starting a harvest cycle ...no... only the whirpool style ice maker requires jumping. Your ice maker is started one of two ways depending on the type. If it has a white paddle, turn the ice maker off for about 10 seconds, turn it back on and press the paddle in three times within 6 seconds. If it has the metal bail arm, lower the arm and grab about two or three of the ejector "fingers" and gently but firmly pull then to you in a clockwise rotation. After a few seconds of doing this, release them and the harvest cycle will start. BTW the "fingers' as you call them on this style, are not in an up or 2:30 position like the whirlpool modular style when at rest. Remember this distinction as pulling the whirlpool style ejector fingers may destroy the ice maker.
After a few minutes, the ice maker will energize the valve. Water will enter the fill tube and run into the ice maker receiving cup. I'll look closely for leaking. If the tube or cup is partially frozen, water may fall in to the bucket. If so, problem found ..clear the ice buildup. If not, I'll look under and around the ice maker to check for any perceptible leaks. If a leak is found, I have to determine if it is coming from a crack or is the ice maker simply over flowing with water. If the latter, it may be possible to adjust the water fill level through an adjustment on the icemaker. This adjustment, however, usually adds or subtracts only about one or two tablespoons of water at the most. If this adjustment doesn't stop the overfill situation then I have to replace the valve.
If I still haven't found the problem then we have the dreaded (*&@#$!) imperceptible leak. That leak only shows up during lunar eclipses, on the 31st day of February or when you are not looking. It could be the ice maker unnecessarily energizing the valve or the valve itself. There's several ways to handle this. Replace them both or one at a time. This depends on how much time/customer's money you want to spend.
If the ice maker is more than five years old or has peeling Teflon coating, I would replace it first as it needs to be replaced anyway and see what happens. If leak continues after a few days, then it's time for a new valve.
If the ice maker is relatively new, I would replace the valve first since it is generally less expensive. If I get them from repair clinic I can always return the part that did not fix the problem.
There is also a neat test that can be done on the valve to see if it is the problem. Remove all ice and water from the ice maker, remount it but do not connect it. no...simply turning it off aint good enough. Keep it disconnected (or disconnect the ice maker side of the valve). If, after a few days, there is water in the ice maker, then undoubtedly we have a leaky water valve.
Other things to consider, ice maker mold heater not turning off, very high/low water pressure at the spigot, water filter issues and an out of sync ice maker, Whew! I need to start charging more for this repair. I'm exhausted just pretending to do it and I am certain I missed a thing or two. Anyhow, by now I should have solved the problem and it's time for a brewski. But no, can't since I'm pretending to be at work! All I can do is quietly celebrate by putting another victory notch on my screw gun.
Edited by DurhamAppliance, 09 February 2013 - 03:51 PM.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 02:49 PM
Thank you so much for detail explanation. I am going to do all that you have stated. THANK YOU.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 03:25 PM
I'd suggest printing that and using it as a check list
Posted 10 February 2013 - 12:07 AM
just a small update:
Replaced the water inlet valve
It is dispensing ice but it is so slow. The freezer is set to C , which said was normal. I mean I emptied it all but there is around 20 or so ice cubes. How long does it take to get a full bucket.
Also i noticed a small icicle forming at the back bottom of the ice maker. I am not sure if this should be there or not.
Edited by mmoore5553, 10 February 2013 - 12:08 AM.
Posted 10 February 2013 - 02:52 AM
Posted 10 February 2013 - 03:03 AM
are you using a "self-piercing" saddle clamp at the House Water Supply Connection ?
OR any type of external Water Filter ?
OR a reverse-osmosis water supply / filter ?
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Posted 10 February 2013 - 06:57 AM
Durham you are probably right as there it is a tad bigger this morning. But i know i am not getting that many ice cubes that fast at all. It has been over half a day and there are some ice cubes but not as much. I guess I will replace the ice maker too. I think maybe the water intake valve was bad also because the ice usually froze up quicker.
Reg - there is a water filter that is built into the fridge but other than that nothing else. You thinking it could be a whole because of hard water and calcium build up ? We are not using a self peircing clamp. The line to cold water we have bridged off and one going to kitchen sink and other going to water maker.
Curious producing slow ice be a sign of a worn out ice maker ?
Just wanted to say thanks for all the help as i have learned a lot. Just stinks as this is my parents fridge and I am just visiting and fixing it a bit at a time.
Edited by mmoore5553, 10 February 2013 - 07:00 AM.
Posted 10 February 2013 - 07:03 AM
Durham you are probably right as there it is a tad bigger this morning. But i know i am not getting that many ice cubes that fast at all. It has been over half a day and there are some ice cubes but not as much.
If the ice production has dropped off and the valve has already been replaced, we need to get an accurate measurement of temperature inside the freezer. Needs to be less than 17F to cycle the cycle the ice maker reliably. Normal operating temperature of the freezer is 0F. If the temperature is much above that or if you have trouble maintaining 0F in the freezer, then we need to start looking at sealed system issues: condenser, condenser fan, evaporator frost pattern, etc.
If, OTOH, freezer temp is good, then replace the ice maker ==> http://www.repaircli...ber=TFX25ZPBBWW
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Posted 10 February 2013 - 07:47 PM
Look like this is solved as there are tons of ice cubes now and they are not freezing together anymore. So i assume the valve was leaking. There is a small pinhole and the icecile is less than an inch. It is bearable now and no ice is freezing. The tempature is -10F so that is all correct. Thanks everyone for helping and it has gone a whole day no issues as before it would only go an hr or two at the most.
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