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gergrff

Kenmore washer model #110.4646250

41 posts in this topic

First though, do you have a numerical display? It would ordinarily show time remaining, according to this scripture. But it is an option.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I do not have a time remaining display.

 

Thanks,

 

GG

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I do not have a time remaining display.

 

Thanks,

 

GG

 

Then the error codes cross reference to status lights. According to the chart at the top of page 7 of the tech sheet an F31 (which I suspect you got) will light up Add A Garment and a couple others during pump test mode depending on your exact model.

 

In which case you might be looking at a(n) MCU board. Unless I'm misreading the tech sheet, which I don't think was written by an Englishman. Anyway a bad control, in the absence of any mechanical factors like socks escaping the basket and dragging, would explain the slow-motor/poor-drainage scenario.

 

You haven't relocated or extended the drain hose recently have you? Any plumbing/drainage issues in the house? Not frozen solid by any chance?

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No, I have not moved the drain, etc. The machine is just how it was installed approximately six years ago.

 

Thanks,

 

GG

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Re-entering manual diagnostics and proceeding to the pump test, are any status LED's lighting up for you?

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Will advise later today RE: diagnostic test.

 

GG

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Best I could tell, there were no failure codes .

 

The unit went through the diagnostic test - everything seemed fine.

 

 

GG

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There are no fault codes, the drain line is clear, and the pump and motor are running fine. The machine goes through every cycle without a hitch. Yet there is still water left in the tub after spin?

 

You know, a while back, another visitor here asked about his furnace, which was short-cycling. There was absolutely nothing wrong with it according to his reports, every question we asked got nowhere. I was pulling my hair out (what's left of it) trying to figure his problem. Turns out, only one burner was catching. He never mentioned the other five burners weren't lighting, only the first one. Had any of us been there we'd have seen that in a New York second and had him fixed up.

 

There is something you aren't seeing. If you are anywhere near Rochester, NY, let me know, I'll run a free diagnostic call for you.

Edited by jb8103

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Thanks for all the help.

 

jb8103, thank you for your offer to help with a free diagnostic call.

 

I replaced the main control board and the pump. The machine now works just fine. As it turns out the main control board was flaky - on several test

runs, the machine forgot to spin. I decided to replace the pump, because the old one pumped, but sounded bad after it ran for a while.

 

GG

 

Motor control board ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/W10273502/2314059?modelNumber=110.46462500

 

Main-Control-Board-W10273502-00688091.jp

 

Drain pump ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/W10130913/1373005

 

Drain-Pump-W10130913-01216786.jpg

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Added part links.

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Domo for letting us know how it turned out and what you found!

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thats not the main control, thats the user interface, dont know why the call it the main board

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I thought it would be the motor control. But knowing the machine would skip a cycle does change the diagnostic outlook.

 

Well, I hope you're out of the woods now, but I have my doubts.

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thats not the main control, thats the user interface, dont know why the call it the main board

 

 

The "main board" is the user interface.  The other board is called the motor control board.  

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So we have two "main" boards, plus a motor control. Any of these, or any two, or all three, could be screwed up and the problems just might be caused by a bad motor in the first place.

 

Having replaced one of the "main" boards and the pump simultaneously gives us little to go on, except that the problem is probably not caused by the other main board. Not definitively - just probably.

 

But, if the machine has ceased to skip the spin cycle and the pump is now acting as directed, likely the second "main" board is the culprit. But if you wouldn't mind banging your knees another time or two, would you put the old pump back in and seeing what happens? Because I'd really like to know.

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jb8103,

 

     I do not have to test with the old pump, because I know the answer already. It will work just fine - I changed the pump because it sounded pretty

bad after it was pumping for a while. I changed the pump, because I did not want to have go back and do it later.

     Thanks for your interest.

 

GG

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