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Kenmore 665.16912001 - No lights, no response


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12 replies to this topic

#1 jonesbasf

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 10:58 PM

Hello all, 

 

I would love some help with my current challenge.

 

I have a Kenmore 665.16912001 (aka Whirlpool) Dishwasher.  One night, it just plain stopped working, mid-cycle, with water still in the bottom. From that point on, no button on the panel respond at all to any input and no lights are on at all.

 

Here is what I have tried:

1) tested the thermal fuse with an ohm-meter. it seems to have a connection, although I admit I am not sure what reading I got from it.  Could the thermal fuse show a good connection, but still be bad?

 

2) tested that I have power to the thermal fuse - we seem all good here

 

3) replaced control board and panel - even with brand new control board and panel - with both items replaced, I still have no joy.  good thing they are returnable.

 

4) door switch... well, i can't really say i tested it... as it fell apart when I took it out.  But, i did override it to see if the panel would light up (stupid idea, i know) and I still have nothing.   A new switch is on order now.  Shows up this week, along with a repair manual.

 

One other observation... I did notice a small amount water in the floor below the dishwasher when I pulled it from under the counter.  It would seem that there is a small leak somewhere.

 

Does anyone have any other ideas of what to test/try?  

 

Any help is appreciated... my hands are in a consistently pruned state from all the dishes...

 

Cheers, 

 

Brad



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 11:36 PM

is that a plastic OR stainless steel Tub ?
Plastic Tubs use (2) Switches in the Door
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=830947

 

Door-Switch-8269209-00621713.jpg


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#3 tpoindexter

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 12:24 AM

Hello all,

Here is what I have tried:

1) tested the thermal fuse with an ohm-meter. it seems to have a connection, although I admit I am not sure what reading I got from it.  Could the thermal fuse show a good connection, but still be bad?

 

2) tested that I have power to the thermal fuse - we seem all good here

Did you have 120 volt coming out of the fuse

 

3) replaced control board and panel - even with brand new control board and panel - with both items replaced, I still have no joy.  good thing they are returnable.

When you replaced the control board did you also replace the thermal fuse, or , did you put the old fuse back on the new board?

 

4) door switch... well, i can't really say i tested it... as it fell apart when I took it out.  But, i did override it to see if the panel would light up (stupid idea, i know) and I still have nothing.   A new switch is on order now.  Shows up this week, along with a repair manual.

If you have 120 volts going to the fuse but don't have 120 coming out then replace the fuse and use the new harness that comes with the fuse.

 

http://www.repaircli...er=665.16912001

Thermal-Fuse-8193762-00651732.jpg


Edited by tpoindexter, 11 February 2013 - 12:30 AM.

Test

#4 jonesbasf

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 10:10 AM

Sensei - It is a stainless tub.  In the diagrams, I find only a single switch, although I have not taken the door apart yet.

 

Brad

 

 


is that a plastic OR stainless steel Tub ?

Plastic Tubs use (2) Switches in the Door

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=830947

 

Door-Switch-8269209-00621713.jpg



If you have 120 volts going to the fuse but don't have 120 coming out then replace the fuse and use the new harness that comes with the fuse.

 

http://www.repaircli...er=665.16912001

Thermal-Fuse-8193762-00651732.jpg

 

Will do.  I did test it "unplugged", but I will plug it in and test to see if the full 120 goes through it.  Oh how I would love for this to be it.

 

Brad



#5 jonesbasf

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 04:01 PM

An update.  i have replaced the door switch and the fuse.  I get no voltage through the fuse.  Seeing this, with a new fuse confused me.  So I tested the voltage through the lines coming to the fuse, without the fuse in line.  I am only getting about 80 or so volts through those lines.  Any ideas on what could cause this?  I will start checking all upstream items to see what I can find.

 

Brad



#6 tpoindexter

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 04:35 PM

You need to recheck all connection.

Go down to the bottom where the dishwasher connects to house wireing and make sure you have 120 v and connections are good. Make sure when you check voltage here to check with probes on each wire, not to chassis ground.

If you have 120 v there then start tracing wire to up to the point you've lost the 120v.


Edited by tpoindexter, 16 February 2013 - 04:41 PM.

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#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 05:05 PM

http://fixitnow.com/...hwasher-repair/

 

100_0323-2005.09.30-04.08.20.jpg


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#8 jonesbasf

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 06:08 PM

So.  I have things working...

 

I checked the voltage at the cord connection and found it to be 120.  To be perfectly certain of a good connection, I cut and re-stripped the wires on the input and reconnected. 

 

I then asked myself "could a bad board affect the voltage", so I put the new control board in with the new fuse and door switch and viola... i have a dishwasher.  

 

I am wondering if I should try one last time with the old board, just to nail it down and try to save $120, but my guess is that a bad board can affect voltage and therefore it was a combination of a bad switch, fuse and board.  Any comment on likelihood of this?

 

Brad



#9 jonesbasf

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 06:21 PM

Well.... i have answered my own question.  Put old board back in and it works.

 

So, there are three things I have done...

 

1) New door switch

2) New thermal fuse fit with new leads

3) New connection to power cord

 

Some combination of these three worked.

 

Thank you all very much for your help.

 

Brad



#10 tpoindexter

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 08:19 PM

Did you use the harness that came with the new fuse?

If you didn't your joy will be short lived.


Edited by tpoindexter, 16 February 2013 - 08:20 PM.

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#11 jonesbasf

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 01:53 PM

@tpoindexter - most certainly did.   :wink:  I had read about that being an issue.



#12 jonesbasf

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 12:29 AM

Ok.  I am back.  No more problems with the control board/panel, but now the dishwasher overflows with water running out from around the float switch.  I am wondering:

 

1) Could this be still a bad board, where it is not listening to the float switch?

2) Could this be a bad float switch (same as the door switch, no?)

3) Could this be something completely different?

 

Any and all help is appreciated.

 

Brad



#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 07:03 AM

Congrats on getting that dishwasher fixed and going!  You have a completely different problem.  Start a new topic and we'll get crackin' on it.  






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