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GE TFX22ZPBEWW Ice dispenser auger not going


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6 replies to this topic

#1 acadiel

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 06:45 PM

Hey everyone -

 

If anyone has a tech manual for this model, please let me know... as far as test points for voltage on the harnesses, etc, in the door.

 

Ice motor quit working; when we press it in "whole ice dispense mode", I hear the solenoid at the back click, the door solenoid opens, but the auger motor does not turn.  Replaced auger motor (old one looked like crap with rust and was hard to turn), new motor does not turn either when a call for ice happens.  

 

In crush mode, nada, no sound at all; no solenoid at the back.  (I'm guessing the solenoid is the thing that triggers crush vs. whole, and it's not engaged in crushed mode.)

 

Replaced the motherboard in the door probably a year or two ago.  Took it out and it looks good (no burnt components, etc.)

 

I'm willing to get down and dirty component level and multimeter-level if I have to.... so throw whatever you need at me if you know how to troubleshoot this a little more....  The wiring harness in front has red, orange, black, purple, pink, grey.

 

Thanks!

 



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#2 maytagman

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 07:58 PM

I will check on the diagram when I get home, but did you check for 120v @ the the motor? Figure out if you have lost the neutral or ground. I would take a quick look @ the connector under the hinge cover. Most likely the dispenser board again on that fridge. Should be easy to figure out when you get the diagram and see if you have the 120v for the auger @ the the hinge connection.


Edited by maytagman, 25 February 2013 - 08:07 PM.


#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 07:57 AM

Minimanual posted here ==> http://appliantology...anual-31-51275/



#4 acadiel

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 08:17 AM

I ordered a new relay for the board to see if it's the relay that went on the fritz again.  It's just about the only part that goes bad on it, from what I've read.  I'll desolder the old one and put the new one on and see what happens.

 

I do get 120V in the door from the orange/grey parts of the harness.  Didn't try continuity to the actual motor wire though yet, but that'll be my next step to track all the wires down after replacing the $2 relay. :)

 

http://www.mouser.co...93-8341AFS24VDC

 

If the wiring tracing goes well, and relay replacement doesn't work, then I'll break down and buy the $60 board. :(  What's funny is that besides the handful of heavy duty switches on that board, there's probably only a couple bucks of diodes and resistors on it.



Minimanual posted here ==> http://appliantology...anual-31-51275/

 

Awesome, thanks!!!



#5 maytagman

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 01:22 AM

I actually had a call today for almost the exact fridge with the same problem.  We had a tech there the other day and he ordered a auger motor and it was in with my pile of stuff to do for the day. Knowing the tech that was originally there too well, and the fact that it was a area I usually cover, I grabbed a time delay module board on the way out of the shop to have along. Sure enough, I get there and the solenoid snaps on cubed and no noise on crushed. I reach in and give the auger motor fork a spin by hand and it turns freely. At this point I ask the customer that was watching me if the other tech took anything apart in  the freezer  or seemed to do much checking.  The customer said nope, he came in and pushed the button for ice, heard that buzz (solenoid) and said it needs a motor, this one is locked up. After hearing that I went out and grabbed the board, put it in and in a total of about 10 min from walking in the door he was back in business. It feels good to look at a call and have it figured out before you even get to the house, but also pisses you off to work with a PCM (part changing monkey) that will come up with whatever diagnosis gets him out of the house quickest because he knows he most likely won't be the one coming back. Ok...our similar service call turned into my rant about a co worker, sorry.  I guess I could just say that almost everytime I have had this call it ends up being the board. sometimes I have soldered a little jumper wire to repair a burnt solder line, but a new board will fix your problem.



#6 acadiel

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 07:29 AM

What's even more infuriating (to my wife, that is) is that both times that I went to fill my mug with ice yesterday, it worked for me.  For her, it just clicked.  Mouser just shipped my relay first class mail yesterday (I actually ordered two for around $6 shipped), so it'll be here in a few days to replace.

 

If it is something really so gosh darn cheap, I wish I had a 24V PSU to test the relays and then I could replace them and make a killing selling refurbished boards. <grin>   The relay is actually what went out on the previous one (I took it apart and desoldered the relay, and the relay /fell apart/ and was slightly charred underneath - not from the desoldering, but I'm guessing it's not spec'd to be heavy duty enough.)



#7 acadiel

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 09:41 PM

Just as a follow-up...

 

I wound up getting one of these from eBay (I don't know how, but it was only $45, and the date code on the box said April 2013).  Replaced it, and all is well.

 

Previously tried replacing the relay on the old one; no dice.  My hunch is that it's one of the diodes or the transistor that's malfunctioning.  I might just start testing those components because a board that simple isn't going to get the best of me... all the darn thing has is two switches, resistors, capacitors, diodes, and a transistor.  






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