13 replies to this topic

[Konanthebarb]

I encountered this slide-in stove the other day with the door locked and an f10,f30 code flashing.

They were no tech sheet,but found a similar stove I looked up previously with this model no. and it looks exactly the same. Anyway, I found that the f10 code refers to a runaway heat temperature, possibly a safety stat or oven sensor. The problem

is I can't seem to open the door. Anyone can tell me what I need to do to unlock this door?  Thanks, do mo.

[RegUS_PatOff]

http://appliantology...e-in-318202121/

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Make a hook out of a coat hangar and slip it into the top of the door (use a flashlight), hook it onto the door lock latch and pull it back.  It only needs to move a little bit (and it'll only move in one direction) to allow the door to open.  Then you'll have to replace the door lock motor along with whatever caused the runaway temperature. 

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Then you'll have to replace the door lock motor along with whatever caused the runaway temperature. 

may now be a bad Oven Controller caused by the Homeowner using Self-Clean

[certified tech group 51]

Some times it is easier to pull the range out, Unplug the unit,  remove the rear panel, disconnect the sensor ..Connect a new sensor, ( no need to install ) . Plug unit back  in, the range should run a door lock test ....If it is the sensor that failed the oven should unlock........If not, check the 2 thermal limiters,  they are behind the rear panel also.........

[Konanthebarb]

Good deal ! I will be going back next week and be trying the sensor test and see if it will unlock, if not then I'll open with clothes hanger. I wondering if this is a side to side movement to unlock or latch and pull out..?

I did pull the range out but could see only 1- sensor in the back. The other sensor I saw which was good was in the front.

Thanks, this is much helpful ! 

[certified tech group 51]

Opps, my bad...you are correct.........There is one in the rear area and the other is behind the front part of the frame / the control panel..................No wire diagram attached to the rear of the unit???..............If I remember correctly, you pull to the left with a hooked wire....Push in on the door gently, pull the latch and then  open the door......

[RegUS_PatOff]

...No wire diagram attached to the rear of the unit???....

posted, above

[Konanthebarb]

I'm  at it again! Finally went back today, and spent an hour or so to open the door latch. It was hooked on real tight, and wouldn't move. Anyway, all the limiters(front and back)  were good and the oven sensor checked out fine. Tried the oven sensor door removal tricky but wouldn't do it. I dismantled the

latch lock motor assembly by removing the front panel and the screws and pushing/banging the latch motor to the side with my screwdriver.. sucess!

Now, I need a new latch/lock motor, but what could have caused the door to lock ...they had a pot inside the oven. The error code came back on flashing F30. The top surface burners are now operational again, but do I need a new Controller now? Any suggestions would be welcome and helpful.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... but what could have caused the door to lock ...
... The error code came back on flashing F30.

.
1)

may now be a bad Oven Controller caused by the Homeowner using Self-Clean

.
2)

... f10,f30 code flashing.

... the oven sensor checked out fine..

Oven Sensor may read OK at ambient temperature, but fail at higher temperatures.
May be worth it to first try a new Sensor.
order all (3), return Controller if new Sensor fixes problem
 
any part ordered from RepairClinic
can be returned for a refund (less shipping)
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1015027

 

 
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1056217

 

 
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1614387

 

[Comstock_Services]

Reg is right, change the sensor, and the latch, you may not need the control, but it's a good ideal to have it with you so you don't loose anymore money on the call.

[Konanthebarb]

The time I spent on this thing is now biting me. The controller for sure along with the latch motor, which I destroyed already, good advice.

I already used a new sensor and it wouldn't open the door so it may be truck stock now. I can just imagine what the owner is gonna say

when I tell him how much this is gonna cost him and then hear the "tenants" scream after that.!  You gotta love it! Thanks guys!

[Konanthebarb]

Finally got the parts and went back to finish the job. I replaced the latch/lock motor and the Oven Controller and zappo!! I want to thank the guys who

helped me out with this job. No wonder the Controller went out , as the oven was heating up and the fan the came on, It was blowing hot air right through the Controller area. Bad, bad design! 

[RegUS_PatOff]

may now be a bad Oven Controller caused by the Homeowner using Self-Clean

.

... No wonder the Controller went out , as the oven was heating up and the fan the came on,

... It was blowing hot air right through the Controller area. Bad, bad design!

 

“My Rules”:
Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.
Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.
Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more.