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one_redraider

Oven dead and display blank after self-clean cycle

29 posts in this topic

Ok, return the swords to the scabbards!  I cannot get model number b/c the door is locked!  :X  Here is the scoop,  the oven was operated in the self clean mode (default time of 3hr 30min).  The cleaning cycle was running and I remember looking at the timer with about 1 hr left.  The next morning, the display is blank and the upper oven remained locked.  I've checked the breaker and nothing was tripped.  I shut off breaker for about 10 minutes and after closing the breaker, (hoping to reset the control panel) it remained unlit.  When the breaker is closed, I've confirmed that there is 240v at the terminals of the breaker (red to black).

Any recommendations on what this Grasshopper should do next?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

My Kitcheaid just did the same thing--again.  Last time they replaced a thermstat fuse in the back.  The repairman actually ordered two thermostats so he could troubleshoot why it burned out in the first place.  Unfortunately a different guy came to do the job when the fuses came in.  :(  So I waited four months to try the self-clean cycle and after the holidays-- it just did it again.  The door is locked and the display panel is blank--so guess I have to call Sears again--my husband is pretty handy and can replace the thermostat (fuse) with the "spare" that we have but we need them to find out why it blows.  It did one self-clean cycle in the very beginning without a problem--but two in a row signifies soemthing more than the thermostat--something else is wrong.  Needless to say, I am very disappointed in Kitchen Aid (KGSA906PSS00)--it was fairly expensive--although not in the class of the Wolf, Bosch or Viking ranges. 

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Thanks for the info.  How do you get to the fuse?  Does the oven have to be pulled out of the cabinetry to access the back? or is the fuse located somewhere else ?

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Man I just do not know how to help without a model number, will see if i can get some service pointers but.....cannot even get you a tech sheet without that model number....:?

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Kenmore Model GBD277 - Built-in Electric Convection Oven

this is not going to be a Kenmore model number, it will have three numbers, then a . then 7-8 more numbers....are you sure it says Kenmore on the front?

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Ok this is a Whirlpool oven, lots of models to select from here...let us begin to look at possibilities.

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Here is one service pointer from Whirlpool, do not know if it peratins to your oven or not tho....

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This is copied from the second model number from the top...have no clue if this is close to your model number or not, but seems there is a harness and fuse in the control panel but does not show it in the breakdown, says is a service part..

WIRING HARNESS PARTS, FUSE ASSY (SERVICE ONLY)

4450814

again, this may have nothing to do with your model number...

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The thermostat (looks like an old-fashioned round fuse with some prongs on it) was in the back under some sheet metal cowling--for the kitchen aid it's listed as a $25.00 part.  In another place on this web site, there is a description of some possible power problems--outlet, household wiring or electric company producing fluctuating power that could be the cause of the problem.  Hubby not home yet to do the basic electrical trouble-shooting.  Although my range is under warranty, we'll still do the trouble-shooting because the tech guys tend to just replace parts without figuring out why things went to begin with.  Sears will be out on the 3rd--hate this but like I said it's under warranty--soooo gotta follow through.  JM

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Hummm, my replies were meant for Redraider, I was not adressing the KitchenAid range.  The fuses keep blowing in some of these ranges because there is a design flaw and about the only thing to solve it is to not clean the oven for more than 2 1/2 hours.....they get too hot and blow the fuses....or there is not a proper instillation of the range to allow for the removal of heat from around the oven, perhaps holes were not cut in the cabinet for proper heat dissapitation....

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Redraider started this thread, discussion is limited to hi problem for the sake of clarity.

Kekaha, for help, start a new discussion thread.

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My bad . . . for some reason I had Kenmore on the brain.  It actually is a Whirlpool (Gold) and based on the link that you sent, I was able to confirm that I had written down the serial number on the Use and Care Guide.  The Model number is GBD277PDS5.

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the service pointer seems to be right on.  One issue though..... Figure 1 and Figure 2 on the service pointer sheet are not clear . . .   any ideas where to locate a clearer version of this sheet?

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I also noted a few weeks ago that the oven door didn't seem to be closing tightly . . . so the heat escaping during the self cleaning cycle could have caused the thermal fuse to blow.

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any instructions on how to get to the thermal fuse?

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Here is the breakdown of your console, however it does not list that fuse on the range, see if you can locate this in your unit as the replacement is a service part, which means it is not installed in production, is replaced in the field as a repair part...

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Here is the tech sheet for your range....you will see it refers to a shut down fuse and shows the location of the fuse and your tech sheet...it shows this in the strip circuit drawings also...

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[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

Here is the breakdown of your console, however it does not list that fuse on the range, see if you can locate this in your unit as the replacement is a service part, which means it is not installed in production, is replaced in the field as a repair part...

Pegi, please clarify what "this" is when you wrote "see if you can locate this in your unit".  Thanks.

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ok.  I'm printing out the sheets to review.  This will give me a great start.  I'll keep you posted on my progress.  Thanks!

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ok, I think I found the culprit.  The control panel thermal fuse (photo attached) when tested for continuity is on OPEN circuit (which to me means it is blown).  The control panel thermal fuse when diagnosed should be a closed circuit as shown on Page 6 of the  Tech Sheet in a earlier post.

Question 1:  Where can I purchase this part?  I checked with the local Sears repair parts shop and they couldn't even find the part listed.

Question 2:  Would it be ok to connect the wires (temporarily fo testing not cooking) to see if the control panel lights up?

post-2348-129045088089_thumb.jpg

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[user=2348]one_redraider[/user] wrote:

Question 1:  Where can I purchase this part?  I checked with the local Sears repair parts shop and they couldn't even find the part listed.

Ratcheer: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=589699

Question 2:  Would it be ok to connect the wires (temporarily fo testing not cooking) to see if the control panel lights up?

If it's open on a continuity check, and you've measured twice, then jumping it out is unnecessary.

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Thanks.  I've placed the order for the part. 

One more question. . . does it matter which way the fuse is installed?  In my haste, I did not look to see which direction the fuse was installed when I pulled it.

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Doesn't matter which way it is hooked in, a fuse is not a directional electronic device.

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Thanks for the info.  That is what I thought but the cone on one end of the fuse made me hesitant enough to ask the question.  I appreciate the help.

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The exact same thing happened to my Whirlpool Gold Double Oven GDB307PDT1 on New Year's Day. During self cleaning, it shut down and the upper oven locked. After finding this website and registering, I was able to find and replace the oven shutoff thermal fuse located on the back panel of the upper oven (had to pull the oven out of the cabinet and remove the shroud in the back). Part #4452122. :) Thanks for the help! The old part was an open fuse. This did not fix the problem entirely. :XI then found the control panel thermal fuse was open also. The tech sheet claims that a manufacturing correction was made to this fuse and upped the temp from a 104 degree C fust to a 110 degree C fuse. :shock:I could only find a 84 degree C fuse and crimped new terminal connectors on it (two different sized connectors so watch for that) and am using it temporarily until the 107 degree C fuse (all I could order) comes in. :yikes:The shutoff fuse cost me $37.45 and the control panel fuse was $5.10. I will now clean it with Easy Off made for self cleaning ovens. It definitely is a design flaw.

PS After shutting down the power, you can open bottom oven, remove the two side strip screws and gain access to the control panel screws. After removing those, you can self accuate the locking solenoid, unlock the top oven and read the model number (found out the hard way).

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