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Frigidaire range FEF336ECE

Both oven elements not heatin

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13 replies to this topic

#1 Patricio

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 09:32 PM

Both oven elements not working.  Service next friday.  Going to check L1 & L2 coming into terminal block & into control board & out of control board.  Could the oven sensor be at fault?   Any suggestions what to examine.  Don't have anything else to go by other than it doesn't work from house renter.


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 12:08 AM

... Both oven elements not working.  
... Going to check L1 & L2 coming into terminal block & into control board & out of control board. 
... Could the oven sensor be at fault?  
... Any suggestions what to examine.  .

1) no Thermal Overloads in that circuit
2) L1 & L2 ... do the Cooktop Burners work ?
3) any Error Codes ?
4) if either Element was shorted to chassis / ground, that could have taken out the Controller
OR if Self-Clean been used lately ?  :nono:
 
tech sheets
316441458en.pdf
 
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1194732

 

Oven-Control-Board-316455400-01028898.jp

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1465763

 

Bake-Element-316075104-01076174.jpg

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=2210850

 

Broil-Element-316199900-01447700.jpg


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#3 richseattle56

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 03:40 AM

Yes the sensor could be the problem, But most likely the board. These boards go wrong all the time. Check the sensor, should be 1100 ohms at room temp. If your get that, its the board. Broil and bake don't work and sensor at around 1100 ohms at room temp. It's the board.



Do the surface elements work?



If so it is the board if no Bake or Broil


Edited by richseattle56, 12 March 2013 - 03:39 AM.


#4 Patricio

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 12:46 PM

Board it is then surface elements supposidly work.   Find out Friday or Saturday.   Thanks


Edited by Patricio, 13 March 2013 - 12:20 AM.

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#5 Vets Appliance

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 07:26 PM

Be sure to not get faked out when checking the board. If I remember correctly that board has separate connections for L2 in and L2 out. If you check L2 in by mistake you can fake yourself out into thinking that the elements are getting L2 when they're not.

 

Additionally, if the board does have an L2 out problem that can definitely kill both elements at the same time.


Edited by ScottsApplianceRepar, 13 March 2013 - 07:28 PM.

Me: "Why are my customers always so happy to see me arrive but then say they hope to not see me again anytime soon?"
Joe Customer: "Because we have to pay you to leave."

#6 Patricio

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 10:34 PM

Call this evening question customer if had  recent power surge.  Replied had two blinks last Friday then oven would not work.  Power coming out of receptacle 247V across hot terminals 123.7 across each hot to neutral. Wiring to terminal block neutral was screwed to cabinet ground from terminal block.  Rewired correctly to block.

 

The Control Board relay clicks periodically in bake or broil mode. 

L1 & L2 going into CB has 123V each leg to neutral 247V across lines. 

L2 coming out of board to neutral = 123V

Bake line out of  CB to neutral = 123V,

Broil line out of CB to neutral = 123V

Bake to broil line out = stray voltage,

Bake or Broil to L2 out of CB = stray voltage.

 

Test voltage at bake element wires with element disconnected starts at 0V when bake cycle engaged jumps to 20+V then relay clicks voltage jumps to 103V.  When relay clicks again voltage drops back to 20+V.

 

No error code, did not test thermostat (thermistor)  obviously board is bad.   why is it bad, what am I reading?   Patricio


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#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 11:42 PM

sounds like a bad DLB Relay
(right above one of the L2 Terminals)
may be a small white Relay

pagefrom316441458en.jpg

 

 

OR a big black Relay

01028900.jpg
 


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#8 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 06:58 AM

Probably just a bad solder connection on one of the DBL relay legs.  I see this quite often in these Friggy ranges.

 

Pop the board out of the plastic case and a little re-solder work on the relay terminals and it's usually good to go, I've never had a call back on one that I've re-soldered, yet.


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#9 Patricio

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 08:34 PM

Put new board in this evening.   Bake & broil works.   Relay still clicks thou,   Normal?


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#10 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 07:31 AM

Hearing the relays clicking while heating on these Frigidaire's is normal.

 

The broil is cycled on for brief periods of time during preheating.  When broil cycles on bake cycles off, (both are never on at the same time).

 

Did you pull the old board out of it's case and look to see if the solder connections to the DBL relay are burnt?  Hearing the relays click on the old board but not getting any heat usually points to that problem.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#11 Patricio

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 11:13 AM

Hearing the relays clicking while heating on these Frigidaire's is normal.

 

The broil is cycled on for brief periods of time during preheating.  When broil cycles on bake cycles off, (both are never on at the same time).

 

Did you pull the old board out of it's case and look to see if the solder connections to the DBL relay are burnt?  Hearing the relays click on the old board but not getting any heat usually points to that problem.

Dismantled the board this morning.  Yep one pin on the DBL relay is burnt.  Great call which leads to another point.  Does a professional technitian  resolder the burnt pin or install a new board?   The new board was less than $100.

 

  The facts in this case the range is in a rent house managed by a property management company.  The management company is getting a profession fee to manage the property & contents, should I not get the same professional fee for my services?   Should start another topic in another forum.   Patricio


Edited by Patricio, 23 March 2013 - 11:15 AM.

I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#12 Scottthewolf

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 04:38 PM

I love how Frigidaire and other brands of ranges get by manufacturing self cleaning ranges without thermal cutoffs, or as Whirlpool calls them TODs (thermo discs).  Instead of blowing a $20 TOD they blow the ERC.


Scott Wolf

#13 Patricio

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 07:43 PM

I guarantee this range has not been self cleaned, auto cleaned, any cleaned other than the cleaning I did to diagnose & repair.  After been done with that job i looked like a grease monkey.


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#14 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:57 AM

I see these burnt terminals on the relay of the Frigidaire ERC quite often.  I believe it to be just the quick and dirty factory mass produced boards and probably just bad solder joints.

 

I always clean and re-solder the connection if it isn't substantially burnt, if the trace is burnt and there is a good part of the relay leg still left I use copper wire from an old electromagnet winding to jumper to a good part of the trace.

 

I've never had a recall or problem with one I've repaired.

 

Rather you will take the chance to repair for your customers or only replace with a complete new ERC has to be your call.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501




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