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Bosch Dishwasher Mod#She43M02UC/48 stuck on 10minute


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10 replies to this topic

#1 deezus

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 11:11 AM

This DW sticks on 1 minute left and runs forever but only on Quick Wash mode. I have taken apart control and inspected it and don't see a burn mark on solders. What I would like to know is what wire do I use to test amps to see of heater is coming on? The main one at jbox? Black? And if it shows 11 amps meaning heater is good then its probably the board right? Thanks.



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 01:51 PM

... The main one at jbox? Black? And if it shows 11 amps meaning heater is good then its probably the board right?

that should work.. AMPS should show 11A more that just the running cycle without the Heater ...


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#3 deezus

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 05:36 PM

ok, I tested voltage at jbox and it doesn't hit 11amps plus. I inspected the board, one side didn't see a burn mark. so because it doesn't draw the 11 amps+ that points to a board?



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 09:05 PM

may be a bad Heater or Thermostat

OR look closely at the soldered pins of the Heater Relay ...


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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 09:14 PM

On the red wire coming out of the control board, check to see if you're getting your 120vac heater voltage.  If not, then control board is bad-- the failure isn't always visible that's why you have to check for the voltage.  

 

If you're getting the voltage out the red wire from the control board, then the problem is in the heater or the NTC.  



#6 deezus

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 01:14 AM

I ohmed the NTC from the board per the tech sheet in DW and it ohmed out good. I remember repairing this DW last year and I think I had to open plastic box holding control board and flip it over to see burned solder I think. Anyway, im sure its the control. Thanks for all your help.



#7 deezus

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 07:06 PM

ok, so I replaced the board and it worked for a few days then it started sticking on 1 minute left. I went back and decided to replace the heater assembly which replaces the NTC, aqua sensor and heater and flow switch. Tested it on normal wash, heater did not come on, so I checked all connections. All good. I did notice a sound like a buzzing sorta then it would go away. Could anything to do with the motor such as water flow or the motor capacitor have anything to do with this? Error codes were E1 and E6.

Thanks.



The tech manual says check everything in the heater circuit and that's what I did...



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 08:52 PM

do some voltage test in the Heater circuit when it should be ON


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#9 deezus

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 06:25 PM

Ok, so I went back installed new heater. Worked for a few days then went back to being stuck on 1. Is it possible that the customer, who is using powder and gel, has gunked up flow through heater? Another tech friend said this might be an issue. I know the board was bad as after changing it I got the necessary voltage readings.



#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 06:39 PM

Is it possible that the customer, who is using powder and gel, has gunked up flow through heater?

This is so unlikely that I think Snopes will be carrying it soon as an Internet rumor.

In these situations, you have to drop back and re-trace what you've done. Go back and make sure you're getting 120vac on the red wire from the control board as I described previously. It's possible the new control board failed. Has happened to me more than once.



#11 JJ Surfer

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 05:57 AM

Listen to the Samurai on this one. If you don't have 120 volts to red wire you can make a jumper wire from black to red (don't connect jumper while running) and then check amp draw when unit is filled and running, heater circuit should pull 9 amps




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