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deezus

Bosch Dishwasher Mod#She43M02UC/48 stuck on 10minute

11 posts in this topic

This DW sticks on 1 minute left and runs forever but only on Quick Wash mode. I have taken apart control and inspected it and don't see a burn mark on solders. What I would like to know is what wire do I use to test amps to see of heater is coming on? The main one at jbox? Black? And if it shows 11 amps meaning heater is good then its probably the board right? Thanks.

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... The main one at jbox? Black? And if it shows 11 amps meaning heater is good then its probably the board right?

that should work.. AMPS should show 11A more that just the running cycle without the Heater ...

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ok, I tested voltage at jbox and it doesn't hit 11amps plus. I inspected the board, one side didn't see a burn mark. so because it doesn't draw the 11 amps+ that points to a board?

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may be a bad Heater or Thermostat

OR look closely at the soldered pins of the Heater Relay ...

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On the red wire coming out of the control board, check to see if you're getting your 120vac heater voltage.  If not, then control board is bad-- the failure isn't always visible that's why you have to check for the voltage.  

 

If you're getting the voltage out the red wire from the control board, then the problem is in the heater or the NTC.  

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I ohmed the NTC from the board per the tech sheet in DW and it ohmed out good. I remember repairing this DW last year and I think I had to open plastic box holding control board and flip it over to see burned solder I think. Anyway, im sure its the control. Thanks for all your help.

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ok, so I replaced the board and it worked for a few days then it started sticking on 1 minute left. I went back and decided to replace the heater assembly which replaces the NTC, aqua sensor and heater and flow switch. Tested it on normal wash, heater did not come on, so I checked all connections. All good. I did notice a sound like a buzzing sorta then it would go away. Could anything to do with the motor such as water flow or the motor capacitor have anything to do with this? Error codes were E1 and E6.

Thanks.



The tech manual says check everything in the heater circuit and that's what I did...

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do some voltage test in the Heater circuit when it should be ON

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Ok, so I went back installed new heater. Worked for a few days then went back to being stuck on 1. Is it possible that the customer, who is using powder and gel, has gunked up flow through heater? Another tech friend said this might be an issue. I know the board was bad as after changing it I got the necessary voltage readings.

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Is it possible that the customer, who is using powder and gel, has gunked up flow through heater?

This is so unlikely that I think Snopes will be carrying it soon as an Internet rumor.

In these situations, you have to drop back and re-trace what you've done. Go back and make sure you're getting 120vac on the red wire from the control board as I described previously. It's possible the new control board failed. Has happened to me more than once.

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Listen to the Samurai on this one. If you don't have 120 volts to red wire you can make a jumper wire from black to red (don't connect jumper while running) and then check amp draw when unit is filled and running, heater circuit should pull 9 amps

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