12 replies to this topic

[mmoore5553]

Here is the model wm2277hw and serial 503kw . I had sheets in it and then it stopped in the spin cycle. I have unplugged for hours nad turned back on. WIll not complete a cycle. I have also found the service manual and ran the QC test mode and it will not tumble clockwise at all . I am not sure where to start looking. I thought i overloaded it but nothing is working on getting it to run. Right now i am trying to run a no spin cyle just to let it finish but usually in the beginning it tumbles when you turn it on but didn't.

 

What steps should i take or am i missing something ?

[mmoore5553]

my wife says it smells like a burnt tire but I can not smell anyways. I did not think this model had any rubber in it unless it is the motor. How easy is it to take apart to see if anything is in there.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

This is usually a bad rotor position sensor.  This page has details on how to verify and replace ==> http://fixitnow.com/...-le-code-video/

[john63]

<<<my wife says it smells like a burnt tire>>>

 

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Built March 2005

 

All HALL EFFECT SENSORS were prone to damage on LG washers built before 2008.

 

However---what concerns me---is the burning rubber odor.

 

This is usually caused by the stainless steel tub lip making contact with the Door Gasket.

 

Very likely that the Tub Bearings and Stainless Steel Tub Trunnion are failing.

 

Grasp the stainless steel tub (also called: INNER DRUM) and pull/push---there should be *zero* movement of the s/s tub.

 

If play/wobble occurs---failed s/s tub and bearings (major repair).

Edited by john63, 17 March 2013 - 09:22 PM.

[nickfixit]

Friday I worked on one that had a bent/deformed spin basket. The bearings and seal were fine, but the basket made contact with the front tub. I think she washed pillows. Her complaint included the burning smell.

[mmoore5553]

Okay I will start checking. Thank you everyone. I have ordered the part and waiting for it now. Did you replace the basket or just reposition it ?

Edited by mmoore5553, 18 March 2013 - 06:40 AM.

[nickfixit]

We replaced the basket assembly and rear tub assembly.

[john63]

Two different repair options...

 

 

http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

 

http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

 

http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

 

http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

 

http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

 

OR

 

http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

 

http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

 

http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

Edited by john63, 18 March 2013 - 08:30 PM.

[nickfixit]

I wonder if roller bearings would be an improvement. The factory LG bearings seem pretty good, but whirlpool needs a new supplier. I would use synthetic grease and pack the area between the seal and front bearing

 

I bet you could use the Cabrio bearing tool to press the new bearings in. I wonder how hard it is too beat out the old bearings.

 

The LG part costs are pretty good compaired to Whirlpool

[john63]

<<<I wonder if roller bearings would be an improvement.>>>

 

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I haven't replaced bearings on a Whirlpool Duet-design washer in awhile---the LG bearings *are* of the roller type though.

 

In 2008---numerous changes/upgrades occurred with various LG appliances---one of those was a change in the Tub Bearings.

 

The diameter/size of the current roller-type bearings are significantly larger than the originals.

 

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<<<I would use synthetic grease and pack the area between the seal and front bearing>>>

 

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The LG Tub Bearings are *sealed*---therefore---the synthetic grease would not be able to migrate towards the roller/bearings.

 

This *may* be possible---on other manufacturer/brand bearings---with exposed roller and/or sleeve-type bearings (I'm not aware of any such types of bearings used in late-model front or top loading washers).

 

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<<<The LG part costs are pretty good compaired to Whirlpool>>>

 

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I agree---it's a significant difference (of prices).

 

[mmoore5553]

just wanted to post back and thank everyone. It was the hall sensor. The burner smell went away after we replaced that sensor. I checked it with an ohm meter and it was reading infinity on one of the pins.

Just wa

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Good deal!  Domo for letting us know the outcome.  

[john63]

<<<just wanted to post back and thank everyone. It was the hall sensor. The burner smell went away>>>

 

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Good job :)

 

When the STATOR and MAIN BOARD are overheating from a failed/failing HALL EFFECT SENSOR---the odor will be an electrical "ozone" smell (not rubber).