8 replies to this topic

[bkkbob]

What does it mean when only 2 of the 6 front panel freezer temp LED's stay lit all the time. All the other panel keys and functions are locked up. Nothing can be selected or enable/disable. Only #2 and #4 LED are constantly ON, is this some kind of error code that's displayed when there's a problem? How to decode the error message?

Edited by bkkbob, 18 March 2013 - 11:21 AM.

[BryanS]

Do you mean like 2 segments of the temps numbers are showing? That would indicate an error code yes. Unfortunately I don't have a manual for you. My work computer won't let look it up either while I am on lunch. The company I work for is cool like that :(

[bkkbob]

 283459_472847986103057_1934266480_n.jpg   31.16KB   10 downloads

 

It's not really segments of a number, it's like a bar graph, and only 2 of the 6 bars are constantly lit, bar # 2 and bar # 4, on the freezer side of the panel, there's nothing lit on the fridge side, and everything else is locked up. I tried to attach a picture, can you see it? How do I find out what error this represents and how to fix it? A lot of blogs say it's a failure of the main control PCB?

Edited by bkkbob, 18 March 2013 - 11:44 AM.

[BryanS]

Gotcha. It may be an error code. Not sure without a manual. I can't say I have seen that before. Sorry I didn't check before I got off work, I just got busy. Sears doesn't let us have access to manuals off the clock.

[Ohm]

Freezer Fan Error and Freezer Sensor Error.

Defrost issue?

 

fastrack

http://www.mediafire...3ar9zgc19stlear

[bkkbob]

Thanks Ohm. That's just the info I needed to help me t/s and isolate the problem. It does seem like the root cause is a defrost related issue. The first symptom noticed was the evaporator coils totally covered with ice, not frost, but thick ice. I melted it down, reset the fault codes and the next day it's working again, but customer said this has happened before and in a week it comes back. So need to isolate is it a faulty component like the fan, the sensor or the heater or is it the fault of a relay or logic circuit on the controller PCB. I ordered a PCB just in case to have one on hand and it because it wasn't available in stock at my local supplier.

Edited by bkkbob, 19 March 2013 - 03:01 PM.

[Ohm]

I usually find an open defrost heater on these.

 

I always check resistance on these whenever I have the cover off as a practice.

 

You can replace the heater, but you have to order the whole evap assy. Samsung's official position on these is that you must replace the evap, which is, of course, a sealed system repair. If it falls within the sealed system warranty period for this model (5 years), then parts and labor would be fully covered by Samsung. You could just charge the customer for your diagnosis and refer them to Samsung to have an ASC/MSC complete the repair (assuming you not authorized).

 

Outside of the 5 years, you could order the complete evap assy and just remove the heater and attach it to the existing evap without opening the sealed system. It's a bit of a pain the first time you do it, but overall there are worse jobs you could do. Just give yourself some extra time. I have done quite a few and still  make sure I have a solid hour to complete the job.

 

FYI the freezer evap p/n is: DA96-00612G

[bkkbob]

Is there a specific resistance value to measure or is it as simple as open = bad, short = good ?

Edited by bkkbob, 21 March 2013 - 06:48 PM.

[Ohm]

Is there a specific resistance value to measure or is it as simple as open = bad, short = good ?

 

Yep.. the values are in the fasttrack pg 2 = 48Ω