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Can this 'frig be saved? Amana sxd26vw


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9 replies to this topic

#1 seamuskilby

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 01:22 PM

Hi, 

 

Never posted here before, sorry for any etiquette breaches but here goes...

 

The refrigerator is an Amana sxd26vw, purchased somewhere around 1998.

The symptoms: both sides are warm, compressor will not start. Was a gradual process over a few months, food wasn't as cold, Ice cream was softish. Just before quitting would cool down only the bottom of freezer and only a little bit. Came back to full life temporarily during thunderstorm when electricity flickered off/on 5 or 6 times. Lasted about a week and then totally died.

 

So far I have:

replaced the bi-metal (defrost thermostat)

replaced compressor relay and overload with manufacturer replacement parts (click and a little hum but no start)

removed new PTC and overload and installed 3-n-1 hard start (rco-410) (click and a little louder hum, but no start)

 

Static Readings:

  • Compressor common to start 9 ohms
  • Compressor common to run   2 ohms
  • Compressor run to start        11 ohms.
  • There is no continuity from any terminal to compressor casing. (I did scratch paint off first.) Therefore I do not believe anything is shorted out

 

With appliance turned on:

  • Tested voltage to on/off thermostat (the one inside frig) and got 120V
  • Voltage from common to run and start is 120 v
  • Wired in and tested 3-n-1. 120 V from common (black) to red (run) and 120 v from black to white (start)
  • Checked fan inside freezer and got 120 v across terminals, but I think that is irrelevant since I was already getting 120 to the compressor.

 

I realize it may be dead, but the compressor tests out in an acceptable range and it is getting voltage. I was wondering if I was doing something wrong, or whether the voltages are not what they should be, or if there is are other test I can run. This IS IMPORTANT. My wife offered UNSPEAKABLE favors if I can get this thing going and we don't have to replace it.

 

I appreciate any help and time.

 



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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 01:45 PM

Fans running? When i think of amana from that period, the first thing that pops in my head is Timer. This could be your problem (depending on how your 3 in 1 is wired) But if you are getting clicks from the 3 in 1 ...sounds like compressor failure. Your compressor tests suggest there is nothing wrong with it electrically (notwithstanding a megger test) but it does not rule out a mechanical failure

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#3 Moostafa

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 03:17 PM

So far I have:

replaced the bi-metal (defrost thermostat)

replaced compressor relay and overload with manufacturer replacement parts (click and a little hum but no start)

removed new PTC and overload and installed 3-n-1 hard start (rco-410) (click and a little louder hum, but no start)

 

Hello, my humming and clicking friend.  Your problem description sounds suspiciously similar to what we warriors in the elite Appliance Repair Corps of the Mujahideen would call a, a كاتب الصعب, that is to say a "Hard Starter" in your barbaric Ameedican English.  This can be caused by burnt bearings, a warped cylinder, or high impedance leakage to ground from the motor windings (this cannot be detected with a standard VOM but need to use a special meter called a mega-ohm meter).  On a minority of encounters in these situations, Allah has blessed my efforts to resuscitate the ailing compressor by smacking it with a yak hoof while it is trying to start.  Yes, we had many such clever techniques in the elite and deadly Mujahideen Appliance Repair Corps.  You will learn them as you frequent the pages of Appliantology.  


Allahu Akbar!


#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 03:49 PM

Compressor Test Cord Diagram is from SubZero 506 Service Manual

compressortestcordb.jpg





here's one from Amana Service Manual

fromamanatopmountrefrig.jpg


.

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#5 seamuskilby

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 04:09 PM

Sho 'Nuff - If the fan you are referring to is the one next to the compressor, then yes it runs very well WHEN i hook up the 3-n-1 correctly.(?) That requires that I connect the two wires that were going to the PTC  (black and white) together and connect them to one power lead, and  join the two wires that were connected to the overload  (blue and black) together and connect them to the other power lead. I hope this is correct but it is the only combination in which I can get the fan to spin when power is turned on and read 120 volts across the leads.

 

Senpai- Yours is a remedy I had not considered. I will check all parts stores in an effort to find the required Yak hoof. In the interim I will substitute a more domestic Ameedican hammer, rubber mallet. or rabbit's foot. My concern is that even it I am successful,  I'm not sure I want to want to position myself permanently behind my refrigerator and smack it (yak it?) every time it needs to start. Is it also your opinion that this unit is probably at the end of it's useful life, or is there a fix?



#6 Scottthewolf

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 05:54 PM

Sounds like the compressor is shot. It would not be cost effective to replace the compressor in this unit.


Scott Wolf

#7 applianceman97

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 07:53 PM

Wire a hard start kit to a 110v cord. Plug it in the wall, (this will bypass all other components in the refer.) if the compressor starts the compressor s most likely good (depending on amp draw) if it doesnt start the compressor is bad. simple way to test the compressor.


Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

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#8 J5

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 09:40 PM

seriously its 15 years old

 

throw it out and get a new fridge that will consume half the electricity



#9 seamuskilby

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 07:57 AM

Hey Guys,

 

Just wanted to say "thanks" to everyone that tried to help. Unfortunately I think I'm gonna have to stick a fork in this one. I did what applianceman97 suggested and hooked the 3-n-1 directly to a power cord and connected it to the compressor. A click and a hum but that's it. I removed the leads and tested the 3-n-1 with a volt meter. I still get 110v from common to red and 110v from common to white. (0 volts reading from red to white) If this won't start it i don't think it's gonna start.

 

Soooo much for unspeakable favors.

 

Thanks anyway



#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 08:03 AM

... Unfortunately I think I'm gonna have to stick a fork in this one.

 


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