Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

KitchenAid Counter-depth Refrigerator

Ksc25INWH0

  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 Konanthebarb

Konanthebarb

    Yamabushi

  • Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 80 posts

Posted 26 March 2013 - 12:44 AM

I going out on this job and wanted to get a heads up on what I'm dealing with. The customer says that the refrigerator is slowly gettin warm on and off. Sometimes getting  warmer than usual.  He hears a a slight buzz or click once or twice a day. This one doesn't have a relay/o/L dingy but an inverter. Pricey too!! I've heard of some people changing out the electronic controller in the back and having to also replace the inverter. Now do I need both parts $$ and be prepared for some trash talking or will just the inverter do the trick. Thoughts?



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 BryanS

BryanS

    Senpai

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 906 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:I don't drink

Posted 26 March 2013 - 06:21 AM

Check the main board for burn marks front and back. Sometimes pcb and inverter can be bad. Not that often. Did they have any power failures lately? There are 2 plugs going to the inverter. The bigger of the 2 should read 120vac and the other 3 to 6vdc. If you don't have those voltages pcb is bad but you can't test the inverter until that pcb is replaced if bad. If you get the correct voltages, then you have a bad inverter. Ohm out compressor. All 3 points should have the same ohm readings. It is like a 3 phase motor.

Edited by BryanS, 26 March 2013 - 06:23 AM.


#3 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,423 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 26 March 2013 - 06:56 AM

I agree, correct voltage into the inverter and the inverter is bad. But you have to make sure the fridge is in cooling mode  ie the compressor should be running. If 3 to 6 vdc is not present at the inverter  red/white and red wires, check p7-3 and p7-8 on the main control board for 3 to 6 vdc (we are basically making sure there is no wiring problem between board and inverter). If voltage present, check compressor pins.  you should get 9-10 ohms on each reading.  Also check pins to ground. However, these 3 phase compressors rarely fail and never use a 3 in 1 or introduce 120 v directly to this compressor.


Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#4 Strathy

Strathy

    Senpai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 694 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Coffee

Posted 26 March 2013 - 07:02 AM

I would also look for other issues. In my experience it has been rare that an inverter was intermitant. Usually they are just not working and the symptom is a completely warm unit. Probably worth checking first, but don't get locked into it.
Neighbour's Appliance Service
Servicing Southern Manitoba, Canada

#5 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,423 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 26 March 2013 - 07:13 AM

An intermittent board, however, is not uncommon. A clicking sound in a non ptc fridge suggests a board problem. But also check condenser fan for proper operation

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#6 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 26 March 2013 - 12:01 PM

... Ksc25INWH0

KscS25INWH0x ?


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#7 Konanthebarb

Konanthebarb

    Yamabushi

  • Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 80 posts

Posted 26 March 2013 - 01:13 PM

ahh, missing another "0" at the end of model no., good catch. Yes, we've had power failures 2-3 times within the last 3-months. Kept me busy. Ok, I think I got it. Is this the controller that I've been hearing that is "nla" or is it only the built in ones. This is too good to be true, wonderful site and place to be!

#8 BryanS

BryanS

    Senpai

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 906 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:I don't drink

Posted 26 March 2013 - 08:14 PM

Some of the counter depths also have the main Pcb as nla. They can be rebuilt. I know we send them off to corecentricsolutions.com. I never get the calls back to install them, so I don't know how long it takes.

#9 BryanS

BryanS

    Senpai

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 906 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:I don't drink

Posted 26 March 2013 - 08:22 PM

Going by the model number you listed, it appears that board is nla.

#10 BryanS

BryanS

    Senpai

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 906 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:I don't drink

Posted 26 March 2013 - 08:41 PM

Applianceparts365.com says they have limited quantities of w10219463. You are missing a number at the end of your model # to be sure that is the same board.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 27 March 2013 - 03:03 AM.
Corrected part no...added the "6"


#11 Konanthebarb

Konanthebarb

    Yamabushi

  • Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 80 posts

Posted 27 March 2013 - 01:24 AM

Yes, just checked, you're right the board is not avail. No dcv going to inverter. I'm going with the pcb, although no burnt marks found on it. I'm gonna try corecentrics since I've heard some people using them with good results and it's cheaper. Amazing talent here !



#12 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,423 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 27 March 2013 - 02:52 AM

Corecentric is good. Also make sure to test voltage at the board to eliminate wiring issues between board and inverter.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics