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G.E. Dishwasher Model# GSD4020Z00BB: I've replaced all major parts, still cant get it to work.


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6 replies to this topic

#1 AlexM

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 06:44 PM

The original complaint was that the control panel wasn't behaving properly and the DW wouldn't fill.  I could get the water valve to fill with a jumper cord.  The motor and pump would run for a little bit, but then shut itself off. These are the parts I've replaced in order:

 

1. Main Control Board P/N WD21X10100

2. Timer P/N WD21X10018

3. Pump/Motor P/N WD26X10013

 

...still did the same thing, except the control lights go on when you push the buttons, still doesn't fill and or run for very long.

 

I cleaned out the sump area and found a white plastic 'rod' that looks like a spare float switch rod.  I removed it, and still doesn't cycle properly.

 

I checked the float switch, which is Normally Closed and it checked out good with my meter.

 

Am I missing something so obvious?  Help!  Thanks!



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 07:09 PM

http://appliantology...4-z-mechanical/


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#3 maytagman

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 07:32 PM

I think I remember having a similar problem and it had something to do with losing the neutral.  when it is suppose to be filling, check with your meter leads on one of the valve terminals and the other on ground. If you have 120v to ground but not across the hot and neutral at the valve terminals you know you are losing the neutral, which just pigtails off of the motor and the solenoid if I remember right. Could be a broken wire in the harness where the door pivots. Sometimes they are like the old wpl wig wag wires that look ok, but are broken off inside the insulation and will conduct enough to test good when you do a continuity test but not when you try to run current thru them.



#4 Ritz

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 08:38 PM

Did you start your troubelshooting at the outlet? Loose wires in the wall?

#5 AlexM

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 08:49 PM

No I did not...wish I had. will head back tomorrow and yank machine out of hole to check outlet behind.  It could have been soooo much easier to check the outlet today when I was there. 

 

Is it good enought to check the outlet with a polarity/outlet checker, or should I open the box and poke around with my wet fingers?



#6 AlexM

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 09:03 PM

If I can trace this problem back to a short in the wiring at the door, will I be able to find the exact wire and break and splice it?



#7 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 09:29 PM

General Electric Recalls Dishwashers Due to Fire Hazard

Hazard: Liquid rinse-aid can leak from its dispenser onto the dishwasher's internal wiring which can cause an electrical short and overheating, posing a fire hazard to consumers.

 

http://www.cpsc.gov/...to-Fire-Hazard/


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