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Need Viking VGIC3054BSS Manual, 2nd Request


antonloof

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Hello-

 

I could use some assistance with a service manual for a Viking oven.  I want to replace the igniters on my VGIC3054BSS and was hoping there was a service manual available.  Does anyone have a copy available?

 

I would be ever so grateful.

 

 

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Thank you very much for the manual.  

 

Here is what I did to replace the OVEN igniters.

 

I purchased the igniters from Amazon.  They are the Generic version and have round igniters instead of the flat ones that came with the oven.

 

 

So here goes…

 

Remove the Phillips head screws as shown.

post-63202-0-25322900-1365374673_thumb.j

post-63202-0-01423100-1365374674_thumb.j

 

 

Fold down the panel and loosen the screws holding the panel on each side,

post-63202-0-78504900-1365374674_thumb.j

 

Turn On Oven

 

Use a clamp-on AMP meter set to AC Amps.  I purchased a $ 10 version on EBAY that came from China.  It works well for the amount I will a clamp-on version.  Notice it was reading 2.87 AMPS.  It needs to be over 3.2 AMPS.

post-63202-0-60987200-1365374675_thumb.j

Turn Off Oven

 

To replace them, remove the grates from the oven and the bottom Plate.

post-63202-0-42364800-1365374671_thumb.j

Here is a photo of the Old Igniter.  Remove the screws.

post-63202-0-25916600-1365374676_thumb.j

Here is the shiny new Igniter installed.

post-63202-0-97761700-1365374676_thumb.j

The left side access was made easier by removing the burner and then removing the igniter.

 

After re-installation, turn on Oven.

 

Test both sides again with the AC Amp meter.  Much Better.

post-63202-0-81795500-1365374677_thumb.j

Done

post-63202-0-55420200-1365374678_thumb.j

post-63202-0-51130100-1365374672_thumb.j

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generic Ignitors are OK to use,

BUT round Ignitors are different than flat Ignitors

(different current draw)

and are designed for different Gas Valves

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  • Team Samurai

BUT round Ignitors are different than flat Ignitors

(different current draw)

and are designed for different Gas Valves

 

Yep, they have different current draws and are made to work with different bitmetals in the gas valves.  

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Could I have a problem down the road?  Is the current draw TOO high?  I expected the Igniter to have a range for the current and not a specific current.  The existing Flat Igniters would sometimes open the valve, sometimes it would close again and other times it would work.  So it was very intermittent.

 

 

How does the operation of the round igniter differ from the flat igniter other than current?

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Could I have a problem down the road?  

Is the current draw TOO high?

I expected the Igniter to have a range for the current and not a specific current.  

The existing Flat Igniters would sometimes open the valve,

How does the operation of the round igniter differ from the flat igniter other than current?

 

Ignitors get weak with age and will no longer open the Gas Valve consistently.

Your original Flat Ignitor was probably not drawing enough current

(and thus not reaching it's specific temperature)

 

round Ignitor (Carborundum)

2.5 / 3.0 AMPs

flat Ignitor (Norton)

3.3 / 3.6 AMPs

 

Using a round Ignitor in place of a flat ignitor will not consistently open your Gas Valve,

and less reliable when it ages (sooner)

 

Using a flat Ignitor in place of a round ignitor will consistently open the Gas Valve,

but when it ages and starts to draw less current (and lower temperature),

it may still open the Gas Valve, but not ignite the Gas, because of the lower temperature. :woot:

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That round ignitor that was installed is OK in this situation.  One of the generic replacements has the round spiral ignitor that is rated at 3.2-3.5 amps.  I personally will not use that style of ignitor to replace one of the square ones, I don't think they have the durability of standard square style.

 

If this wasn't one of these above said correct aftermarket generic ignitors it would not be reading 3.71 amps that is shown after the repair has been done.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair
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