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GE sxs Freezer Sporadic Frost in Freezer

GE sxs refrigerator

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11 replies to this topic

#1 bluefrog

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 11:10 AM

Hi all, looking for some help with a GE sxs freezer with unusual frost build up on the upper half of the freezer section.  The right wall of the freezer gets some frost build up, along with the back of the door around the ice cube chute.  A couple of the top racks below the ice maker have frozen ice/water accumulation.   The customer is not currently using the icemaker and has it off.  I thought it may be a defrost issue at first so I started with a new board.

 

Things I have checked/done so far....

 

All fans are working.

Checked door seal for leaks. (Seems to seal well)

Checked the ice cub chute for air leaks. (Also seems ok)

FF side is around 42 degrees.

Freezer side is around 16 degrees.

Turned down temps to see if we could get it colder (will check today to see is that helped).

Resistance for thermistor FF comp. is 6.6 at 42 degrees

Resistance for thermistor FZ air is 9.6 at 16 degrees.

Resistance for Thermistor Defrost is 10.6 at 16 degrees.

Replaced the main board.

 

I am thinking about replacing the thermistors in the freezer side, but this is just a guess and hope for a fix.

 

Any thoughts out there if I am missing something?

 

Model number is GSH25JSXB GE side by side.

 

Thanks for your help.

Nick


Thanks,

Nick

 

www.bluefrogappliance.com

bluefrogappliance@gmail.com

 


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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 11:56 AM

Check to see if lights turn off when door is closed. Touch heater on icemaker to see if it is staying on despite it being turned off. I had a similar model (gsh25jfxb) this past friday where the paddle arm of the icemaker stayed in the in position and the heater stayed on even when icemaker was turned off. Food in ff top section was getting too cold. Not sure if the icemaker heater caused it but I disconnected it and awaiting customer feedback. I do know that heater can cause some wacky things to happen in a GE fridge.
Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#3 bluefrog

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 01:57 PM

Will do it and let you know how it turns out.  Thanks!


Thanks,

Nick

 

www.bluefrogappliance.com

bluefrogappliance@gmail.com

 


#4 bluefrog

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 05:13 PM

OK icemaker heating element is not on and the lights are turning off.  The auger motor was not turning so I disassembled it to find the motor inside frozen in a chunk of ice.  Very weird that water would accumulate in there.  I thawed it out, cleaned it up and put it back in and it now works fine.  

 

I went ahead and turned on the icemaker so we can see at a later date if the ice is maintaining its cubage or is it thawing and turning into an ice block in the bin.  

 

Thawed out entire freezer and cleaned up all frost and water droplets on the racks.

 

I went ahead and replaced all three thermistors.  My next thought is to replace the terminator.  

 

Will give it a few days and go recheck to see how its holding up.  I guess there is also the possibility that I got a bad mother board.  May have to replace that again to in order to rule it out.


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Nick

 

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bluefrogappliance@gmail.com

 


#5 maytagman

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 06:00 PM

That thermostat isn't really a defrost terminator Like you would think. It's more of a safety thermostat. I believe it opens at 140 degrees. I have replaced a handful of them though. The first thing I do on a defrost issue Is go to the board And pull the high-voltage connector And put a jumper wire in between line and defrost. If the heater doesn't come on the heater or that safety thermostat is bad. If it does come on then its most likely a board or thermistor issue.

#6 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 06:22 PM

That thermostat isn't really a defrost terminator Like you would think. It's more of a safety thermostat. I believe it opens at 140 degrees. I have replaced a handful of them though. The first thing I do on a defrost issue Is go to the board And pull the high-voltage connector And put a jumper wire in between line and defrost. If the heater doesn't come on the heater or that safety thermostat is bad. If it does come on then its most likely a board or thermistor issue.

you can't disconnect the high voltage connector for this test. unplug fridge, jump the pins and plug fridge back in.  You need the high voltage to turn on heater.  While the high voltage is pulled you can ohm pin 7 to pin 9 to check heater and defrost limit ohms.


Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#7 maytagman

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 06:45 PM

I wasn't real clear trying to reply on my phone. I do this a couple times a week and work on these probably as much as anyone. It may have sounded like I meant to pull the connector and jump the board terminals.  You pull the connector and insert a jumper wire into the connector from J9 (defrost) to J12 (line) then plug the fridge in. I do this then leave it plugged in and heater on to help speed up the defrost. Not sure if that is the smartest thing, but I'm for whatever gets that thing defrosted quickest. Now that I have my handy dandy steamer to defrost these things, I may not leave the heater on. Beats the heck out of a hair dryer or heat gun.



#8 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 07:00 PM

Gotcha....I simply attach small alligator clips to the exposed part of the pins without having to move the connector.  Although we all make mistakes, your explanation  falls more in line with the competent tech I know you to be. (ps  because of your competent posts, you actually made me double check what I knew to be true..lol)


Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#9 maytagman

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 07:02 PM

Also, if you have frost in the ice chute area, pop the front dispenser panel apart and get a good look at the dispenser door solenoid. Usually you will find lots of nice mold and sometimes a rusty dispenser door solenoid that can appear to be working, but will hang up and not close all the way.



#10 maytagman

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 07:09 PM

Thanks Durham. Since I'm married with three teen age daughters I'm not used to having words like competent thrown my way.  Well not at home anyway! Maybe that is why I started spending time on this site. Lol.

If you leave the connector off you can leave the heater on and don't have to have the evap fan kick on.


Edited by maytagman, 08 April 2013 - 07:11 PM.


#11 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 07:34 PM

Three teen age daughters....man. Well, you aint in a mental ward for trying to understand the whims of teenage girls as a parent, nor locked up for bashing a few teenage boys in the head as the gatekeeper. I am absolutely positive you have to be competent to do that and repair appliances as well. Although I imagine you can get dizzy at times from doing all these things at once.

 


Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#12 bluefrog

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 01:59 PM

Thanks for the great advice guys.  I've learned a lot from this one.  Hopefully I will get it figured out.  I'll keep you all posted.


Thanks,

Nick

 

www.bluefrogappliance.com

bluefrogappliance@gmail.com

 





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