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Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravo, Kenmore Oasis Washer Tub Bearing Replacement

Whirlpool Cabrio Maytag Bravo Kenmore Oasis washer bearings

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15 replies to this topic

#1 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 09:53 PM

Sing along with the Samurai's annotations on this Whirlpool training video showing you how to replace the the tub bearings in a Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravo, Kenmore Oasis washer.  
 
 
Here's the replacement bearing kit: Part number: AP5325033

Part number: AP5325033
 
Here's the bearing press tool you'll need to set the bearing: Part number: AP5325072

Part number: AP5325072

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 24 February 2014 - 12:15 PM.


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#2 Scottthewolf

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 09:45 PM

Only thing, is if the customer let the bearing and seal go too long, you will have difficulty getting the wash basket separated from the outer tub.  In that case, you may have to bite the bullet and quote the job for a inner wash basket and an outer tub.


Scott Wolf

#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 09:52 PM

In that case, you may have to bite the bullet and quote the job for a inner wash basket and an outer tub.

 

Probably a good idea to check that before quoting the job.  If that's the case, it's a total.  The customers I just did this for were right at the choke point when I quoted $300 for the complete job.  



#4 curjones

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 12:31 AM

What is the part number for the long shaft oasis,   my mod is 110.28042701, not found it yet, I dont see them pop up on most parts list as availiable, when they have part diagram.



#5 curjones

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 01:02 AM

Sorry for the brain fog, I was thinking the shaft was longer, found out they are the same , had not taken the adgitor out, and thinking they are like a Direct drive.  I have seen or found out there are two size shafts for direct drive units.  Got my answer.  Have changed out one set so far in Cabrio, what a difference.



#6 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 06:36 AM

You say you have found there to be two different size shafts for direct drive washer?

 

Would you care to elaborate on that?  To my knowledge there is only one size basket drive/brake unit for the direct drive washers.

 

For the old original belt drive Whirlpool washers they did have at least two different length basket drive/brake assemblies.


William Burk (Willie)
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#7 curjones

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 12:36 AM

For the old original belt drive Whirlpool washers they did have at least two different length basket drive/brake assemblies.

 

I have a place to get used parts, and it was there i noticed there was two diffrent size shaft, and that was probally because of some older models,   The ones I saw had the clutch, transmission, motor and pump as a sale item, some were shorter shaft lengths.  I have worked on a few of those with the shorter shaft, had to use an extension to remove the bolt, to get to agitate dawg pawls.
 


Edited by curjones, 19 February 2014 - 12:37 AM.


#8 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 06:56 AM

As far as needing an extension to remove some of the agitator bolts, that is because the agitator is a different style, not that the shaft is shorter, (at least on the direct drive Whirlpool built washers).


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 19 February 2014 - 06:56 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#9 BryanS

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 12:05 PM

Just out of curiosity.  How long would you have to wait to let that adhesive dry before actually allowing the washer to be tested with water.  It would bug me not be able to check for leaks before leaving.



#10 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 08:05 AM

The hi-temp adhesive that comes in that kit sets up pretty quickly, (I would say 5 to 10 minutes, probably actually quicker then that - it's the same adhesive used on the rear drum seals on Whirlpool dryers). 

 

If you install the bearings, shaft and seal then do the rest of the re-assembly.  By the time you have the basket and rotor and everything together it should be dried enough to test.


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 25 February 2014 - 08:10 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#11 Thirstytech

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 05:53 PM

I haven't had any luck actually selling this job to the customer.  Not sure if it's purely the money aspect or if they never really liked the machine much anyway and refuse to invest anymore into it?  



#12 curjones

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Posted 13 March 2014 - 12:36 AM

Lesson learned about the wires on the stator.  Before you disconnect the Red, Blue, and Yellow wire from the Stator, note, look and observe that they are neatly tucked into a clip that routes them into the back or inside area.  When you get ready to put the stator back on, be sure they are back in the slot.  I missed this and the wires , which are the three phase motor leads worked their way down between the stator and rotor.  Not sure the video covers this well, but slow down and be sure.  Easy to miss, laying on your back trying to hold up the stator, center bracket, and getting a bolt started.  I hope this is the right place to make this comment.



#13 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 01:45 AM

So you are saying we need to be observant and put things back the way they were? Imagine that. lol

This is not a special case. A tech should ALWAYS take note of wire routings and connections. If not, your work is not only unprofessional and sloppy but it could affect the appliance in ways you have not considered. Take pictures of the original setup if you must.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 15 March 2014 - 01:53 AM.

Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#14 curjones

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 03:24 AM

Yes. and also saying, when you have put them in the holder, and struggle the first time trying to get it all lined up, plastic grey piece, stator, and getting a bolt started in the ring, and it falls down a time or two, (heavy stator) that the wires stay and are still in that holder.  Stop after you get it in and make sure they are in and behind.  I have taken pictures, and will be taking more, even on what looks simple.  I hope to one day have a business where I have to hire a person or two, and i need to document all my mistakes, and have a good training manual on hand.  Pictures are worth a thousand words, but even getting someone to look, and really pay attention to the picture may be like pulling teeth.  Who needs the book?? LOL just throw them spare nuts and bolts in the trash...



#15 applianceman97

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 11:56 PM

You should have no spare nuts lol (as we all know). I'm not sure what the issue your talking about with wire problems is?I have done a few of these and I just take them apart and put them back together the way they came apart. No biggie. I guess I'm just not understanding what the issue is.

Edited by applianceman97, 15 March 2014 - 11:57 PM.


#16 Scottthewolf

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Posted 17 March 2014 - 01:22 PM

I had one of these Cabrio's where another tech had replaced the drain pump. That tech did not put  the drain pump wires in their proper spot where they belong when he replaced the drain pump and the wires broke.

 

 Tech before me ordered a control board because he ran the machine in service mode and found no power to the drain pump. I was the unlucky tech who went back to install the control board  and found the broken wires going to the drain pump.  Because the wire was broken where it goes into the Molex connector i could not splice the wires back together. I had to order the complete lower wiring harness.  I also returned the control board.


Scott Wolf





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Whirlpool, Cabrio, Maytag, Bravo, Kenmore, Oasis, washer, bearings

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