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Kenmore Refrigerator Freezing in Refrigerator


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14 replies to this topic

#1 Applianceman97

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 07:35 PM

I have fixed many of these whirlpool made kenmore's with this problem but this one i am having an issue with. The Refrigerator is at 20 degrees and freezing the food. Customer says the evaporator fan is running all the time, but the compressor is cycling (i have seen it myself). Air Damper is working. I changed the Thermisor in fresh food and freezer section (only found the one in the fresh food section on the break down, couldnt find the one in the freezer, so i figured they were the same part number (this may be my problem)) Anyway. Damper is always wide open and evap fan running. im thinking its the control board. Tech sheet is missing! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!

 

 Kenmore mod# 106.55529400.


Edited by applianceman97, 09 April 2013 - 07:35 PM.

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 04:33 AM

Wiring Sheet - 2255375.pdf


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#3 BrntToast

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 08:04 AM

does this one have the thermister in the control housing?

if its close enough to the light bulbs and the lights are not shutting off for some reason, the bulbs warm the thermistor and the damper stays open freezing the food


The only stupid question is the one not asked

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#4 Applianceman97

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 09:53 AM

Thanks guys!
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#5 Applianceman97

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 10:01 AM

Of course the tech sheet was gone. Thanks!

quote name="RegUS_PatOff" post="251966" timestamp="1365586421"]
Wiring Sheet - 2255375.pdf[/quote]


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#6 Applianceman97

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 01:16 PM

Okay. So here is what is happening. I put the refrigerator in test mode And All the functions tested okay. Yet when the refrigerator is on the damper is fully open and evap fan runs all the time. I have changed the thermistors and no change in cooling. Is the freezer thermistor and fresh food thermistor the same part number? I coulnd not find the freezer thermistor on the breakdown so I installed the same part # in both compartments. Im leaning towards the board just was hoping someone had seen this before.
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#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 04:34 PM

In the tech sheet, they call out three different part numbers for the thermistors depending on the cubic feet of the unit.  But the spec is the same for all three:  2.7k-ohms at 77F.  Not sure why the difference in P/N's.  I think it may have to do with the way they connect.  

 

The damper thermistor is P/N 2188819.  

 

 

 

Yet when the refrigerator is on the damper is fully open and evap fan runs all the time. 

 

 

Have you actually caught it doing this or is this the customer's report?  If the latter, what may be happening is frost is getting into the damper and making is stick open.  



#8 Applianceman97

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 05:22 PM

I saw the damper wide open. I thought it was freezing as well but that wasnt it either. I wonder why the evap fan is always running. I have fixed tons of these issues before and never had this problem.
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#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 05:31 PM

I saw the damper wide open. I thought it was freezing as well but that wasnt it either. I wonder why the evap fan is always running.

 

I'm wondering how you know the evaporator fan is running all the time or if you're just taking the customer's report that it is.  I'm not doubting you, I need to know what you know and how you know it to make sure we're not mixing verified facts and customer reports which, as you know, are often two entirely different realities.  

 

Some diagnostic questions:

 

1.  Did you use a data logger to monitor temperature inside the compartment? (Always a good idea in these kind of problems.  You need real temperature data because a) most customer's don't have thermometers in their fridges and B) the thermometers they do have often suck.)

 

2.  If you move the control to "warmest", does the fan shut off and the damper close?

 

3.  In self-test mode, did you get eyeballs on the damper vanes opening and closing?



#10 Applianceman97

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 05:51 PM

Customer says the fan runs all the time. I have been there 2 times and have never seen it off. When the control gets turned to the warmest setting the damper does not close nor does the fan shut off. I did see the damper vanes open and close in test mode. I dont have a temp data logger but it sounds like I should invest in one. Thanks for all the help. Every idea gets me closer to fixing this for my very patient customer
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#11 Kevin Vasconcellos

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 12:31 PM

I just came across the same situation on a service call last night. Damper was wide open, evap fan on & compressor off! Then while I had both doors open, the compressor kicked on. In service mode the control indicates that both the thermistors are ok. The damper had no frost on it or blockage of any kind & operated smoothly & quietly when step 5 damper test was performed. In damper test mode I unplugged & plugged in the damper motor several times & it started without hesitation each time. So now I'm at the cornfused/guessing stage of this B.S. Whirlpool/Kenmore problem: shall I try a new thermistor? Is it the board? Is it the damper not sending the right signal to the board? I left the machine with the damper unplugged & slightly open in hopes of helping the problem until I have it solved. Any feedback would be appreciated. Working on model 106.54606300. 



#12 JJ Surfer

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Posted 15 August 2013 - 03:05 AM

When you run diagnostic tests does the compressor and fan turn off in defrost? Sound like the main control is the problem.

#13 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 15 August 2013 - 07:59 AM

The evap fan running while the compressor is off may have been that short interval when this occurs during compressor start-up. The thermistor test performed by the board only tests for open or shorted thermistors.. It doesn't test for a thermistor being out of calibration. Either
1) test the thermistor manually and replace it if bad
2) replace the board if the thermistor passes or
3) no testing, no guessing just replace thermistor and board and be done with it.

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#14 Kevin Vasconcellos

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Posted 15 August 2013 - 04:22 PM

I don't know, but I got to thinking about it & the wiring diagram shows a switch integrated into the damper assembly & I'll bet that's what failed. The control not knowing the position of the damper would be a logical explanation. When it's in the test mode on the damper test, it just goes round & round & doesn't stop. Is that normal for the test??? I'll keep you updated on my progress...



#15 Kevin Vasconcellos

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 07:38 PM

Well so much for that theory...on to the control board I guess. This SUCKS!






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