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NCARepair

Maytag bravos mvwx500xw1 blinking lock light

18 posts in this topic

Checked machine and found lights for tachometer test did not blink when in diagnostics and turning tub by hand. Replaced lower harness and shifter. Machine will spin in test then the lid lock light blinks. Possible the lid lock is bad? It does have .2 ohms with lid closed measured lid unlocked and closed. Tech sheet says should be 0 ohms.

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.2 OHMs is OK,

but there's a Lid Switch and a Lock Switch inside the assembly

and the Solenoid should measure 85 OHMs to 155 OHMs

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1) When you put the shift acuator & wire harness did you put machine in calibration mode & give it time to finish.  Has to go thru calibration whenever electrical components are replaced.

2) can you hear lid latch lock & unlock,  if you can more than likely latch is good.

3) don't have manual in front of me but I am sure the resistance should be lots more than 0.

4) that machine has a service manual located on the front panel rather than a tech sheet I do believe

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1) calibrated machine and let finish.

2)can hear lid lock and unlock. Can manually operate it until it starts blinking. Will blink for a few minutes then unlock. Usually does ths afte running in spin in diagnostic mode.

3)tech sheet says 0 ohms, has .2 but i agree with reg this shoud be ok.

4)found and using manual with machine.

Solenid measures 100 ohms.

Any other ideas?

I changed those parts because i found the tach lights not responding as the tech sheet said so i figured control coud not tell if tub was still or not.

Edited by NCARepair

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... there's a Lid Switch and a Lock Switch inside the assembly

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Yes, they both seem to check out. Not sure why it does this only after spinning. It will lock and unlock 10 times in diagnostics, just acts up only after spinning in diagnostics.

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Lid lock should be ok.  Something else making it unlock.

 Do the test to determine if everything leading to control board is OK.  Check resistance in actuator although you repaced it to be sure it is Ok.   Testing takes me a lot of time, I jot notes as I go along & sometimes backtract.    Its head banging   :wallbash:  sometimes but one piece at a time & double check.   :unsure:  I never get in a hurry.  Have to go by manual & rule out all good components.

I've never got to have to replace control board although I have read of others doing so.   Go to book on diagnosing & interpretating Error & Fault codes.

 

Something telling me bad connection some where in harness.   Good luck.  Maybe others can be more specific.

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Replaced entire harness. I did order a lid lock so we will see.

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Keep us posted!

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Installed lid lock today, worked as advertised. In the future i guess it is just as easy to install a new lock then checking with the meter if it checks good anyway. 

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Thanks for letting us know!  This will definitely be helpful for others coming along later with this same problem.  Good job!   :rocker:

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  I knew that .2 ohms was a bad sign. The problem is that when checking with multimeter, you are only using the low voltage and current (milliamps) of the meter through the contacts but in operation, full motor current is going through the lock switch, although much less through the lid switch. You can take that lid lock apart and see what the contacts look like. I made a web page on it.

 

Eric

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Good webpage. I did ohm the new switch with my brand new,too cool Fluke 170 meter. It said .4 ohms on the new switch.....but it worked.

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... It said .4 ohms on the new switch....

before measuring OHMs, touch the meter probes together ...

(probes and wires have resistance) :whistling:

Subtract that reading from the device tested.

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before measuring OHMs, touch the meter probes together ...

(probes and wires have resistance) :whistling:

Subtract that reading from the device tested.

Learn something new all de time  on Samurai Appliantology  :thumbsup:

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  While multimeter test leads come in various sizes, the typical "standard" size is 18 or 20 gauge. Even with 20 gauge wire, it would take 10 feet of it to have 0.1 ohm of resistance. At the typical 6 to 8 foot overall test lead length, it would be 0.06 to 0.08 ohms for 20 gauge wire. I just checked three of my multimeters, one an older Fluke, and they all read 0.0 ohms resistance. I have another "cheapie" meter that jumps between 0.0 and 0.1 ohms. Gotta make sure those probe tips are clean.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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(probes and wires have resistance)

should have said: :whistling:

probes, wires, and all of their connections, have resistance

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  The way I checked them was to place the meters in ohms function and short the leads together. That checks resistance of the probes, wires, and all of their connections. If your getting 0.2 ohms, you need to clean your meter connection and/or the probes or your meter is out of calibration. Check your meter manual, many meters have a lead resistance compensation function that zero's the reading to compensate for any lead resistance. Some meters do it automatically.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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