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Maytag bravos mvwx500xw1 blinking lock light


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17 replies to this topic

#1 NCARepair

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 01:51 PM

Checked machine and found lights for tachometer test did not blink when in diagnostics and turning tub by hand. Replaced lower harness and shifter. Machine will spin in test then the lid lock light blinks. Possible the lid lock is bad? It does have .2 ohms with lid closed measured lid unlocked and closed. Tech sheet says should be 0 ohms.

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 04:00 PM

.2 OHMs is OK,

but there's a Lid Switch and a Lock Switch inside the assembly

and the Solenoid should measure 85 OHMs to 155 OHMs


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#3 Patricio

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 04:01 PM

1) When you put the shift acuator & wire harness did you put machine in calibration mode & give it time to finish.  Has to go thru calibration whenever electrical components are replaced.

2) can you hear lid latch lock & unlock,  if you can more than likely latch is good.

3) don't have manual in front of me but I am sure the resistance should be lots more than 0.

4) that machine has a service manual located on the front panel rather than a tech sheet I do believe


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
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#4 NCARepair

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 05:00 PM

1) calibrated machine and let finish.
2)can hear lid lock and unlock. Can manually operate it until it starts blinking. Will blink for a few minutes then unlock. Usually does ths afte running in spin in diagnostic mode.
3)tech sheet says 0 ohms, has .2 but i agree with reg this shoud be ok.
4)found and using manual with machine.

Solenid measures 100 ohms.

Any other ideas?

I changed those parts because i found the tach lights not responding as the tech sheet said so i figured control coud not tell if tub was still or not.

Edited by NCARepair, 10 April 2013 - 05:01 PM.


#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 05:33 PM

... there's a Lid Switch and a Lock Switch inside the assembly


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#6 NCARepair

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 06:26 PM

Yes, they both seem to check out. Not sure why it does this only after spinning. It will lock and unlock 10 times in diagnostics, just acts up only after spinning in diagnostics.

#7 Patricio

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:25 PM

Lid lock should be ok.  Something else making it unlock.

 Do the test to determine if everything leading to control board is OK.  Check resistance in actuator although you repaced it to be sure it is Ok.   Testing takes me a lot of time, I jot notes as I go along & sometimes backtract.    Its head banging   :wallbash:  sometimes but one piece at a time & double check.   :unsure:  I never get in a hurry.  Have to go by manual & rule out all good components.

I've never got to have to replace control board although I have read of others doing so.   Go to book on diagnosing & interpretating Error & Fault codes.

 

Something telling me bad connection some where in harness.   Good luck.  Maybe others can be more specific.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#8 NCARepair

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:54 PM

Replaced entire harness. I did order a lid lock so we will see.

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 07:24 AM

Keep us posted!

#10 NCARepair

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 04:54 PM

Installed lid lock today, worked as advertised. In the future i guess it is just as easy to install a new lock then checking with the meter if it checks good anyway. 



#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 04:58 PM

Thanks for letting us know!  This will definitely be helpful for others coming along later with this same problem.  Good job!   :rocker:



#12 fairbank56

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 05:40 PM

  I knew that .2 ohms was a bad sign. The problem is that when checking with multimeter, you are only using the low voltage and current (milliamps) of the meter through the contacts but in operation, full motor current is going through the lock switch, although much less through the lid switch. You can take that lid lock apart and see what the contacts look like. I made a web page on it.

 

Eric



#13 NCARepair

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 09:13 AM

Good webpage. I did ohm the new switch with my brand new,too cool Fluke 170 meter. It said .4 ohms on the new switch.....but it worked.

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 11:43 AM

... It said .4 ohms on the new switch....

before measuring OHMs, touch the meter probes together ...

(probes and wires have resistance) :whistling:

Subtract that reading from the device tested.


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#15 Patricio

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 12:16 PM

before measuring OHMs, touch the meter probes together ...

(probes and wires have resistance) :whistling:

Subtract that reading from the device tested.

Learn something new all de time  on Samurai Appliantology  :thumbsup:


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#16 fairbank56

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 01:21 PM

  While multimeter test leads come in various sizes, the typical "standard" size is 18 or 20 gauge. Even with 20 gauge wire, it would take 10 feet of it to have 0.1 ohm of resistance. At the typical 6 to 8 foot overall test lead length, it would be 0.06 to 0.08 ohms for 20 gauge wire. I just checked three of my multimeters, one an older Fluke, and they all read 0.0 ohms resistance. I have another "cheapie" meter that jumps between 0.0 and 0.1 ohms. Gotta make sure those probe tips are clean.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 12 April 2013 - 01:27 PM.


#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 01:29 PM

(probes and wires have resistance)

should have said: :whistling:
probes, wires, and all of their connections, have resistance
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#18 fairbank56

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 04:47 PM

  The way I checked them was to place the meters in ohms function and short the leads together. That checks resistance of the probes, wires, and all of their connections. If your getting 0.2 ohms, you need to clean your meter connection and/or the probes or your meter is out of calibration. Check your meter manual, many meters have a lead resistance compensation function that zero's the reading to compensate for any lead resistance. Some meters do it automatically.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 12 April 2013 - 04:56 PM.





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