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GE WBSR3140G3WW Cant get it to work.


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7 replies to this topic

#1 isappliance

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 12:58 PM

I replaced the lid switch and motor on this GE Top load and the machine. All it does is fill up with water then sits there a few minutes before draining. It will not start any cycles. The motor shows that it sits on standby mode and I can not get any information on this machine. Any help is appreciated.



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#2 applianceman97

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 01:07 PM

Havent looked at the diagram yet but in the newer ge washers there is a fuse in the wiring harness running to the motor. This could be your problem. The fuse is wrapped in heat shrink running down the right side of the machine towards the top.

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#3 isappliance

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 01:12 PM

I have checked the fuse and the fuse is ok.



#4 applianceman97

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 02:37 PM

http://fixitnow.com/...asher-wont-run/

I will see if I have this service manual too. Hope this helps.

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#5 isappliance

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 02:48 PM

Yeah that's what we did. We tried to reset it after the motor is in and nothing. It does blink, but that blink is 1 second on, and 1 second off showing just normal standby. As far as the machine is showing, everything is normal but of course it doesn't want to work so we are at a lose with the machine at the moment. We are unable to ubtain a service manual so we don't know what else to do. Possible timer switch? Although seems unlikely.



#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 03:04 PM

Are you sure you used the correct motor when you replaced it?  RE:  http://appliantology...lacement-chart/



#7 fairbank56

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 03:30 PM

  Pretty easy to troubleshoot with a multimeter at the inverter board. On the leftmost connector, using wht/red for your neutral to the meter, you should have 120vac on the red/blk wire and the orn wire (gray on some models). Still using the wht/red for neutral, on the rightmost connector (control voltages from timer) you should get 120vac on these wires depending on mode of operation.

 

High speed agitate, blu and vio/wht

Low speed agitate, wht and vio/wht

High speed spin, blu and red

Low speed spin, wht and red

 

  If you are getting the appropriate voltages for a particular mode and the motor isn't working, the motor is faulty or you have the wrong one. There are about 5 different versions of this motor/inverter and they are not interchangeable. On washers that use an electronic control board versus a timer, the control voltages are low DC levels, not line voltage. The inverter has it's own microprocessor, memory and program algorithm for operating the motor. The control voltages from the timer simply tell it what mode to begin operating in. If you are not getting the proper voltages from the timer, the timer could be faulty or you may have a faulty pressure switch or wiring/connection problem. There should be a wiring diagram behind the control panel, looks like you should have mini-manual 31-16577.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 11 April 2013 - 03:35 PM.


#8 isappliance

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 03:56 PM

Are you sure you used the correct motor when you replaced it?  RE:  http://appliantology...lacement-chart/

Yes, it is the correct motor for this model number. It was replaced with WH20X10057 from GE specifications.

 

  Pretty easy to troubleshoot with a multimeter at the inverter board. On the leftmost connector, using wht/red for your neutral to the meter, you should have 120vac on the red/blk wire and the orn wire (gray on some models). Still using the wht/red for neutral, on the rightmost connector (control voltages from timer) you should get 120vac on these wires depending on mode of operation.

 

High speed agitate, blu and vio/wht

Low speed agitate, wht and vio/wht

High speed spin, blu and red

Low speed spin, wht and red

 

  If you are getting the appropriate voltages for a particular mode and the motor isn't working, the motor is faulty or you have the wrong one. There are about 5 different versions of this motor/inverter and they are not interchangeable. On washers that use an electronic control board versus a timer, the control voltages are low DC levels, not line voltage. The inverter has it's own microprocessor, memory and program algorithm for operating the motor. The control voltages from the timer simply tell it what mode to begin operating in. If you are not getting the proper voltages from the timer, the timer could be faulty or you may have a faulty pressure switch or wiring/connection problem. There should be a wiring diagram behind the control panel, looks like you should have mini-manual 31-16577.

 

Eric

Thanks Eric. I will look into it and see if its not the timer or anything else giving it the trouble. The motor is definently correct for the model. If the timer is faulty, would it just leave the new motor on standby by not sending it the appropriate signals? We tested the pressure switch the first time diagnosing it and it was in the right voltages so we know that it's not the problem.


Edited by isappliance, 11 April 2013 - 04:04 PM.







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