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helstar

kenmore washer elite model: 110.22042100 fills but nothing else

18 posts in this topic

well just replaced the motor in this washer. cleaned out the pump. put it back together and the washer fills and thats it. doesnt spin,drain anything to do with washing

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...  just replaced the motor .... washer fills and thats it. doesnt spin,drain anything to do with washing

any Error Codes ?

the same symptoms before replacing the Motor ?

Tech Sheet - 8526175.pdf

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Did you check the lid/safety switch?

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it all started with it not draining. lots of codes, cant rember them. so i took the thing apart and cleaned all the hoses and the tub. put it all back to gather and worked for a month or so. a week agao it started making a lot whining noises when it ran. as you know if its still working dont mess with it. well that lasted a day.  did laundry and the tub filled and i got the ld code. emptied it out and checked the pump. pulled a  carpenter pencil out of the pump. found the other half in the tub at the drain site. put it all back to gather and now it does nothing. no codes nothing. it filled and thats it. so no humming from the motor. i took a chance and replaced the motor. well no fix. i have done all ohms checks on the lid switch the discharge valve, pressure switch, transducer too. so im at the point saying the the board is out. ran a test cord to the motor and it seems to be fine.

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any Error Codes ?

the same symptoms before replacing the Motor ?

Tech Sheet - 8526175.pdf

thank you for this. Would have loved to have found this a week ago. ran all the test and as stated before everything checks out. the board does not send pwr to the motor to do anything. and the motor checks out even the old one. so looks like i need a new board that sucks! 175 for a motor and now 250 for the board!

COULD HAVE BOUGHT A NEW WASHER BY NOW!!!!!!

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... have done all ohms checks on the lid switch the discharge valve, pressure switch, transducer too.

and the Balance Switch ?

 

... Would have loved to have found this a week ago.

... looks like i need a new board that sucks! 175 for a motor and now 250 for the board!

any parts ordered from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund (less shipping)

including installed electrical parts

 

Can you get it to do a "Spin only" ?

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Sounds like you had a drain/pump issue that you corrected then your new problem started after reassembly. Double check your connections. Are you certain you reconnected the lid switch? Sounds like I'm beating a dead horse but you are describing classic lid switch failure symptoms.

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If you get lots of codes that can be indication of computer/ control board problem.

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well im back.  now after all the head ache im getting a f1 code.  not sure where to go. im going to check all the connections now. read somewhere to check the pressure hoses and such.

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Did you replace temp control or main control?
What was the original problem?

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If original issue was F01, you make have a new board that is bad. It's happened to me a few times.

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the main problem i had was the machine would not spin,drain,agitate. all it would do was fill with water.  so i replaced the motor. did not fix it, so i replaced the main control board. now it runs but i keep getting the f1 error code. so i have to cancel then restart the wash process and sometimes it will go threw. wife is all over me on this crap washer. should of thrown it out.

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well just put another board in. running it now. i checked the Recirculation Pressure Switch by the tech sheet. it had 115 closed and when it opens i have zero. also pulled the hose too it and blew it out with air hose to dry it. it did have some water droplets in it. now the f1 error says

 

 

SPIN/AGITATE FAILURE

“F1” flashes and cycle signal beeps when basket has spun in error during
the agitate portion of the cycle. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear display.
– Select any cycle with agitation. Once agitation begins, “F1” should not
flash, and washer should not spin during agitation.
– If “F1” continues to flash, replace recirculation pressure switch and
make sure there are no kinks or blockages in the tubing.
– Select any cycle with agitation. Once agitation begins, “F1” should not
flash. If “F1” continues to flash, replace control board. See page 11.
NOTE: Beeper will sound continuously while error code is flashing.

 

Test #8 - Recirculation Pressure Switch Test
Perform Recirculation Pressure Switch Test in the Service Diagnostic Test table.
1. If water recirculation does not take place, do the following test:
2. Connect a voltmeter (set to measure AC volts) across P5-4 and P5-2. At the times in the
service diagnostic routine where recirculation should take place, the AC voltage reading should
go from a reading of about 120 VAC down to about 0 VAC.
3. If this does not happen, replce the drain/recirculation pressure switch. NOTE: When the tub is
empty, the drain/recirculation pressure switch is closed and line voltage (125 VAC) must be
measured across P5-4 and P5-2. If test fails, replace the drain/recirculation pressure switch.
4. If test shows that the drain/recirculation pressure switch is OK, the problem is either in the
electronic control board or the drain/recirculation solenoid valve.
• Unlike other solenoids, the coil resistance in the drain/recirculation solenoid valve can not
be measured. Replace the solenoid.
• If the washer still does not recirculate, replace the electronic control board.

 

did all this. not sure if i did it completely correct but pretty sure

 

heres the thing. it doesnt give a error every time. its hit and miss!

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WELL SHIT error code on the first load.  heres where it gave the code. normal mode, it filled with water agaited its cycle then drained. filled again and after the fill it f1 code. so not sure what to do.  i checked the reading on the drain/reciculation pressure switch. was 0 volts when the tub was full of water. so that only leaves the drain/recirculate solenoid valve.

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well just ran the machine completely threw that test 3 times and no errors.  filled the washer and went to drain it i heard the drain/recirculate solenoid valve kick out and bammm F1 error. so im replacing it.

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Also if you haven't already, make sure to check your  drain hose/pipes while waiting on the part. 

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     I think you've got it this time Brother helstar.  When Whirlpool first introduced those log valves they were driving me crazy with fault codes.

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