Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
Patricio

Kitchenaid Refrigerator KSRB25QGSS01

25 posts in this topic

Call the other day for SxS Kitchenaid refer with ice maker & water dispenser problems. Homeowner purchased house with reefer in it. water valve was not hooked up. New owner bought icemaker install kit. Ice maker would not fill. Water dispenser worked for couple days then valve stuck in open dispense. dude had to shut water off at sink.

Customer called me about problem, I set up appointment, meanwhile obtain tech sheet from Reg. Customer's wife calls morning of service call saying freezer not cold all ice has melted temp in freezer 50 degree. I tell them to put thermometer in refrigerator & call me in a hour. Temp is same 50. I ask her if fans are running, can she make out if compressor is running. She tells me she thinks they are but will have husband call me in morning. Service call would be 30 miles away, I was afraid system failure unit is 14 years old.

Next morning he calls me & we walk thru it on phone. Evaporator fan is blowing warm air, freezer is 51, fridge same. He says he thinks compressor is running, describes condenser coil as dirty, but he can make out the layers of coils. Tells that fan is blowing over drain pain & the flow of air is strong.

I let him make the call, I can come out & diagnose but if I have to condemn, diagnostic charge is in effect (long distant call). Opts to go shopping cause of age of refer.

Calls me this afternoon says came home from looking & fridge is cold, 38 degrees. puts thermometer in freezer & calls hour later, freezer holding at 06 degree. Wants me to come out for original water call.

Any clue why the warm temps for 2 days with fans running? Had an Amana one time that complaint was refrigerator would be perfectly fine, then go into defrost for 3 days then come back on & cycle correctly. Turned out that defrost bi-metal was shorting out but the evaporator fan would not run, I don't think this is the case.

Going on call 9 in morning, Suggestions as always greatly appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Yeah, probably different than amana as amana use to connect it's evap fans to the bi-metal. Sometimes I think that is brilliant other times I think it's dumb. Anyhow, several useful additional questions to ask the customer's for future reference... 1) do you see any ice buildup in the freezer (many times they will automatically say "no" since the freezer is too warm in their opinion so you have to press them on this), are the left and right sides of the fridge near the doors very warm (suggesting condenser fan problem) and if the compressor is warm (not hot) and vibrating.

Your problem is intermittent and hopefully you can catch it acting up but we can talk about the likely suspects. If customer is correct and all fans are running strong we can rule out temp controls, and fan motors (but check condenser fan to be sure) That leaves in order of probability: intermittent start relay, compressor, defrost system (if freezer has frost preventing air circulation, then this moves to first place probably not adc if condenser fan is running) and lethargic/intermittent condenser fan motor.

If I was a betting man, i'd put my money on start winding problem, whether ptc or compressor itself. But so far (and just in case my wife reads this), I've only been lucky at love.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Motherboard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Motherboard

If this was a GE or variable compressor kitchenaid (like many K series kitchenaids) you could be correct. There is an ADC but I don't think this particular model has a mainboard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... Tells that fan is blowing over drain pain & the flow of air is strong.

if the Condenser Fan is running, the Compressor should be running . . .

Maybe bad Overload OR Start Relay .

OR stuck Realy on the Defrost Controller ?

http://appliantology...01-tech-sheets/

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=844415

 

Defrost-Control-Board-4388932-00795844.j

 

 

 

. .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stuck adc is a possibility and I had thought that through (like that means anything, lol) but at some point temps should have dropped below 50. If I'm not mistaken, the condenser fan and compressor are energized by the adc on the same circuit. So if that fan is running then a functioning compressor would be cooling. If the heater is staying on, I would think the bi metal would shut the heater off and cooling from the compressor would drop the temp below the upper range of the bi-metal. With the compressor and heater battling and the bi-metal sneaking in every so often to side with the compressor, I estimate temps in the freezer would probably be somewhere in the 30 degree range. But then again, with an adc, anything is possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here goes,  On way to see what I can do.  Have positive attitude, going to figure out.  Will post later on outcome.   Thanks all for inputs. :thanks:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at the wire diagram, it could be a cranky freezer cold control....located in between the A.D.C. and the compressor...............Operates  the compressor and the condenser fan motor......Don't ya hate to drive all that way and it is operating O.K.????.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... that fan is blowing over drain pain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I have:  Refrigerator hot when I arrived.  Fans running constantly. plenty strong fan flow. Compressor head very hot.   Turned off thermostat, fans stop, lights on/off working. Unplugged fridge,  Pulled relay & overload, tested compressor pins Starter/common & run/common pins ohm out within specs,  Both add up correctly to total of S & R pins.  Pins to compressor open no short.

 

Plug in, Energized, turned thermostat to middle range.  Defrost heater should not come on defrost limit should be open.   Compressor Relay/overload clicks twice.  I put Amp probe on power supply line.  Reading 0.02amps.  Relay kicks in amp draw jumps to 17 amps.  Overload kicks compressor back out (hear 2nd click)  amp draw back to 0.02 amps.  Fans don't lose a beat.

 

What now?    BTW check EDC connections.   BK wire (1 pin) to WH wire (6pin) 42 volts.  All other wires connected to EDC to WH (common) 20v or less. 

 

If therm was shorted why would fans run continuous?   Am I ate up with case of dumbass?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... BK wire (1 pin) to WH wire (6pin) 42 volts.

BK(1) to WH(6) should be 115v AC line voltage

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BK(1) to WH(6) should be 115v AC line voltage

Yes I read that in the tech  sheet,  my question is why would there be less.  Direct short?  Why would the fans keep running @ the amp draw be so high causing overload to kick out.   Trying to sort out.    What else should I have checked.   Just when I think I am understanding electricity I get an inside curve ball.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...  my question is why would there be less.  Direct short?  

broken wire / bad connection somewhere ..

OR you're not reading your meter / or the voltages correctly .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You first needed to cool down the compressor. Many compressors have internal thermal motor protectors. Once cooled, you may have been able to start it. But something is causing it to overheat. Although you tested the compressor electrically, it may have an internal mechanical problem such as a binding piston. All this is subject to proper voltage being applied.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Digital meter,  checked, rechecked, & rechecked again.   Was getting 120v at all other 120 connections.   Why the high amperage?   Watched it cycle from 0.02 to 17 click back to 17 amps several times.   Seal system restriction?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You first needed to cool down the compressor. Many compressors have internal thermal motor protectors. Once cooled, you may have been able to start it. But something is causing it to overheat. Although you tested the compressor electrically, it may have an internal mechanical problem such as a binding piston. All this is subject to proper voltage being applied.

I was leaning towards compressor mechanical failure or sealed system failure.  Thing for sure unit was cooling, unit got warm for long period of time, & started working again for 6 hours then got hot again.   Unit has other problems, ice maker shot, water valve questionable.  Dispenser water valve defective, does not shutoff.  Ice dispenser spring switch not activating correctly.  Repair bill would be third the cost of a new SxS or possibly more.  Does customer want to spend that on a 15 year Refer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sealed system failure resulting in high head pressure is a good bet as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is why comp is very hot,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

could all be caused by the wrong voltage mentioned coming into the ADC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like the famous ADC board & compressor start relay 1-2 punch.  This kind only comes out by prayer and fasting... and troubleshooting.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... EDC connections. BK wire (1 pin) to WH wire (6pin) 42 volts.

BK(1) to WH(6) should be 115v AC line voltage

connected directly to incoming line voltage

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

aint this fun?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Older unit, probably one of the first in the Kitchenaid line to start using the adc's.  Dual cold controls....cap tubes in proper position?  If found not running does it start running after you punch it in the face?  (The control panel, not the customer)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here goes, On way to see what I can do. Have positive attitude, going to figure out. Will post later on outcome. Thanks all for inputs. :thanks:

What ever happened? It's been a year but after talking to you, I know senility has not set in yet.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What ever happened? It's been a year but after talking to you, I know senility has not set in yet.

 Not senility, rather dementia.    Not like me to not post my results.     Have to look up my records, don't rightly remember,   Will get back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites