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Dual/tri level electric top burners


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Tone Blair

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 02:19 AM

So how the hell do you test these things?

Specifically the temperature sensor thing?

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:31 AM

Are you talking about one of these...

 



#3 Tone Blair

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 10:18 AM

Yes one of those, do you ever need to test the limiter?

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 12:51 PM

Easiest thing to do is test the coils for continuity as shown in the video.  If the coils have continuity and you're getting voltage to the element terminals, then the limiter is bad.  If the limiter is bad, you have to replace the whole element because the limiter is not a separately replaceable part.  



#5 Scottthewolf

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 01:55 AM

Since all of these smoothtop ranges and cooktops are a total pain in the ass to remove the top just to test the elements, I ALWAYS and I mean ALWAYS quote my customers for both the element and the infinite switch.  It's just way too much effort to open the top just to test the element and find out you need to order it. Then you replace the element and find out you also need to order the infinite switch.


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#6 JJ Surfer

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 02:31 AM

Most of the time it takes two screws to lift the glass top enough to test for voltage to the element, got 220-240volts and no heat, you don't need the switch.

#7 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 05:27 AM

Most of the time it takes two screws to lift the glass top enough to test for voltage to the element, got 220-240volts and no heat, you don't need the switch.

 Or to check the continuity of the element ribbons. If only one ribbon is out on the dual/tri element, it's most likely the element that is bad.
 


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