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basket case, stove wiring


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4 replies to this topic

#1 jeff lee

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 06:06 PM

Custom built stove, counter and sink unit fabricated from stainless steel, I'm guessing it was installed in this home in the late fifties.

The stove section features 5 GE calrod surface units, 3 6" & 2 8", there is a control panel located just below which houses individual pushbutton switches for each burner

 

Someone had removed all the wiring to each surface unit, each unit has 3 wires running to it from the switch, presumably to replace each burner

Can anyone tell me which wire goes where to the burners?

The wires are colored black, red and white

 

I was told by the previous owner that the leftmost button on each switch was the high position, with each adjacent button to the right lowering the burner heat output progressively

Each switch has 6 buttons, the rightmost button is the off position

 

The 6" surface unit is GE part # WB30X356

 

Thanks in advance !



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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 07:17 PM

If you post a picture of your burner and switch i can be more certain but will use the part no. you provided.  You may be able to deduce it by turning on the stove, one wire should give you 220 vdc when connected to each of the other two wires separately when the switch is turned on. It should reduce/increase temp (resistance, if you want to test without power) when the switch is turned....that wire should be connect to the terminal that has two coils connected to it. The other two go to the other terminals that are probably side by side.  Basically you have two coiled loops on this burner. With one wire sending 110 vdc through two coils and the other wires sending 110 vdc on separate loops giving you 220 on each loop. Not sure of the placement of the other  two wires,It may not matter since they should be sending 110 each but depends on other wiring in the stove but the reaction to the switch (whether it turns the burner up or down) should help indicate the exact placing of the wires. 

 

Safety is always an issue when rewiring old stoves. You have to keep your wits about you. check, double check and triple check using your knowledge of electricity. Don't take chances, it's best to connect the wires while the breaker is off, turn the switch to test then reconnect the breaker and check results.  If you elect not to do this, make sure to have someone nearby with a two by four.

 

Normally when I had stoves like this in my shop, I would switch the burners and receptacles to the standard style.

 

Where is Sensei Reg when ya need him? lol


Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

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#3 jeff lee

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 01:16 AM

Thanks for the reply, but i do need to clarify 1 thing.

Shouldn't I be measuring alternating current and not direct current? I am sure this is just a typo...



#4 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 07:27 AM

Durham, you must not be familiar with the older GE ranges that had the 6 push button switches to control the surface elements.

 

They work by supplying either 110 volts in series thru both coils of the duel coil surface element or 110 volts thru each coil in parallel for the lower temps or 220 volts thru just one of the duel coils  or 220 volts thru both of the duel coils in series for the next to highest and highest temp setting.

 

Jeff, Attached is a wiring diagram for these switches and elements, this should be all the info needed to rewire these elements and switches correctly and yes all volt readings should be AC.

 

The switches are marked: input-> L1-(red), N-(white), L2-(black)  and output-> 1-(red), 2-(white), 3-(black)  to elements and PL-(black to pilot indicator lamp).   The #3-(black) output to elements go to the common terminal of the elements the 1&2 go to inner and outer coils of element, (They can be swapped and they will still work OK but the wrong coil will heat up on the next to highest setting - some of the duel coil elements are made so that one complete coil is in the center of the element like an individual smaller element and the second coil is the outer ring of the element and others are made as both coils being interleaved/alternating on each ring of the element.  If you have the style were one coil is the complete center of the element and the second coil is the outer ring you want the next to highest button to send 220 volts to the center portion of the element so that the next to highest setting makes the inner smaller coil red hot.).

 

.

Attached Files


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 24 April 2013 - 07:33 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#5 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 08:09 AM

Budget, you are correct, I am not familiar with that style! I just looked at the element and determined how it must work based on the style I am famiar with not being aware that type exists in a noncommercial setting. . As usual, your expertise is impeccable.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

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