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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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tjcin

Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer

17 posts in this topic

I have a 7 year old Duet washer, model # WFW8300SW00, that no longer works.  It stopped working with 2 minutes left on the rinse cycle and the door would not open.  I removed the lower panel and released the door manually.  When I performed the diagnostic test, 3 codes appeared, F20, F24 and F28.   I unplugged it for a 1/2 hour and the codes did not clear and I can't seem to get the machine to do anything.  I had a very good reputable repair company come and look at it and I was told one or both of the control boards is bad.  I hate to trash the machine without exploring all the avenues of repair.  How can I tell if either board is bad?  What happened to the days when appliances lasted for 20 years?  Thanks ahead of time, Tim C

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

20 and 24 are water related.

Could be a bad water valve.

28 says the control board is not communicating with the motor board.

Could be a bad wire connection.

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Also check the hose connecting the pressure switch to tub for a pinhole. Also be sure to use HE detergent if you get it going. I keep a roll of hose on my truck and always replace if I get the f20 code. Has fixed many of them. 

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Hose/8540294/1179943?modelNumber=WFW8300SW00

 

Also check the pressure switch by blowing into the hose connector end. Easier if you have piece of hose. 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pressure-Switch/W10163980/1399592?modelNumber=WFW8300SW00

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I agree with arrow.  Check pressure hose.  Usually rubs against rear tub causing hole.  If you unplug washer and plug back in, you should hear an audible click from the CCU.  If no click, might be bad CCU (grey control box-upper right hand side).

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Thanks guys, keep the info coming.  I did check the pressure hose and it looks fine.  I will pull it off and check it with a hand pump.  I can barely hear a click from the CCU when power is applied.  The machine will give me the codes but will not go into diagnostic mode.  I disconnected the motor controller and the CCU acted exactly the same.  I am leaning towards a bad CCU.  Again, before I pull the trigger, I wish I had some more diagnostics to perform.. Tim C

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If one code or two codes indicate a problem pursue that area. When you have multiple codes in different areas I lean toward the ccu. The fact that the machine will not enter diagnostics also indicates computer.

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Thanks for the input.

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OK, I have thrown some parts at the machine.  I bought a new FSP CCU and door switch.  This cleared the F20 and F24 codes when in diagnostic mode but F28 still exists.  The door now locks but the machine won't start a wash cycle.  Do I buy a motor control board or is it time to buy a new LG?  I could really use some help, thanks.  Tim C

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Did you replace the pressure hose?

 

Hose-8540294-01250412.jpg

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Do you have all the panels on or ground switches bypassed?  If not you will get the false f28 codes.

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I did not replace the pressure hose.  I did a visual inspection of the hose and didnt see any wear or cracks.  And yes, all the panels are on the machine and no switches are bypassed.  The F28 was one of the three original codes the machine threw when it initially stopped working.Back to the pressure hose.  Would a bad hose cause it to just sit and do nothing after the door locks?  I also just found another symptom.  After the power cord is plugged in and I hit the power button on control panel the machine turns on.  But when I hit the power button again to turn the machine off it doesnt turn off.  It has to be unplugged.  Thanks for any help. 

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Check for correct voltages at MCU. Check for continuity on mcu wiring harness. Check windings on the motor. 

Id send back Primary control. Get a good visual on the MCU. Disconnect all wires and open her up. I bet its blown a cap. 

Edited by RussTech

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I concur with Russ, mcu is bad

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Would a bad MCU prevent the machine from turning off from the soft touch button?

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Do this test, if it fails, replace the MCU.

 

 

gallery_4_5_80497.png

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The problem was in fact the MCU.  I don't know or really care if the CCU and door lock were bad in addition to the MCU, but the replacement of the MCU cured it. The Duet Sport is, for now, back in action.  Thanks everybody for all your input.  Tim C

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Awesome, bro!  Thanks for letting us know how it turned out!   :thumbsup:

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