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Bryant Waller

Whirlpool Washer LSR8233EQ0 Keeps Stripping Couplings

26 posts in this topic

I have a Whirlpool Washer Model# LSR8233EQ0 that has been giving me a ton of problems. This washer is 15 years old and until recently hasn't given me one problem.

 

I've went through the original coupling and three coupling halves. Each time I've replaced the coupling the washer works fine for a load or two then it strips another coupling. I've completely disassembled, cleaned, lubed and reassembled the entire mechanical portion of the washer. I've replaced the clutch, cleaned and lubed the brake assembly and sanded down the brake housing. I've checked all of the bearings and pivot points. Last night I noticed that after the agitate cycle the washer seems to get stuck during the drain cycle. After the water drains, the motor is running but nothing happens. When I released the lid switch the drum jumped a little and when I pressed it again it started spinning. The rest of the cycle finished without a problem. The next two loads finished without a problem. During the third load the coupling once again stripped.

 

I'm thinking that it's either the neutral drain in the transmission, or the brake cam (which i didn't replace because it didn't come with the clutch) is not disengaging the brake properly, or binding up.

 

Any thoughts, or something i've missed?

 

 

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

  Does the motor pause for a few seconds after draining? It must pause to release neutral drain and allow spin mode. If it doesn't pause, that's a problem with the timer but doesn't explain the coupler problems. The coupler problem could very well be something wrong with the neutral drain mechanism. Are you buying genuine Whirlpool FSP couplers?

 

Eric

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When you install the new couplings do you replace the grommets on the motor? What fill settings is the customer using? Is it fillin to the proper level?

Because you have had it apart, I would explore the brake . Get eyes on it and make sure it is siting up there properly. Maybe you'll find something obvious.

There are a good chunk of these machines that the nuetral drain doesn't work. Although it doesnt help, they aren't going through couplings like this machine is.

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Eric,

 

I don't think it pauses after draining, I'll have to run it again and check that out. Sounds plausible that it's not pausing to allow the neutral to release. Is it possible that by not releasing it's somehow creating a bind somewhere else.

 

micabay,

 

After the initial replacement of both couplings and the grommet, I've only been replacing the coupling on the side that failed. The grommets are still in good condition. 

 

I've had the brake assembly completely apart. I sanded down the housing, dressed up the pads and lubricated the pivot points and anywhere there's metal to metal contact. Everything in the brake area seems to be working well. I will take another look at the brake assembly. the brake cam seems kinda loose, but it still seems to be doing the proper job. could the brake cam be the problem?

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 Is it possible that by not releasing it's somehow creating a bind somewhere else.

 

  Not unless there is a problem with the neutral drain mechanism. On the basket drive, the plastic piece is the brake cam driver, the brake cam is underneath that. The driver is normally loose when not engaged by the clutch band. With the gearcase out, you should be able to grab the brake cam driver and fairly easily rotate it CCW to release the brake and turn the basket drive and basket. If it seems really stiff but the brakes are releasing, there may be some clothing caught between the tubs. The reason I asked about using Whirlpool parts is because there is a lot of junk out there being sold cheap. I wouldn't buy appliance parts from e bay or amazon unless you know for sure the vendor is selling Whirlpool FSP parts. I know lots of people end up buying clutches there for $8 and they only last for a few loads. Same goes for some of the couplers.

 

Eric

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Eric,

 

That's a very good observation. I didn't even think about that fact. Just checked the amazon site where i bought the couplings, and wouldn't you know it most of the reviews said that they were breaking. I'm going to order a OEM now.

 

Having worked with motors for over 10 years in the past, you think I would have thought of that.

 

Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Update: The one that I have looks like the photo on repair clinic, except that maybe the metal insert has tabs that go into the plastic instead of just a disk. Is this actually the case?

Edited by Bryant Waller

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Even if the vendor on Amazon or EBay claims they're peddling OEM parts, my experience is that they are lying and selling generics. Here's what happened to me: http://ymlp.com/zsTPYA

Here's the link to the genuine OEM replacement coupler at RepairClinic: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Coupling/285753A/1195967

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I don't know about that, but there have been some problems with the newer couplers with the metal sleeve. For one, they fit much tighter and usually must be tapped on using a socket. There have been problems with either the metal sleeve breaking loose and just spinning within the plastic parts and/or the metal sleeve is wearing the motor shaft and/or gearcase input shaft. I prefer the older ones without the metal insert. Either way, just make sure your getting FSP. There is also a heavy duty coupler for so-called heavy duty washers but they will fit standard washers just as well. The part number is 285852.

 

As far as the problems with the coupler with metal insert, it may just be the ones that are not FSP, I don't know.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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I remember the old GE's with the metal tub had a transmission problem when the basket would spin during agitation.  Can't remember if this ever happened with the Design 2000.  Problem could still lie in the gearcase.  Also make sure motor mounting clip are in place properly with screws.

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  I broke my first coupler last week (FSP) tapping it on to the trans shaft. It takes a good whacking to get some of those on. Very important to make contact with the metal insert and not the plastic. I know it was my fault because I was talking to a "chatty" customer while banging on the coupler.

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I use a spanner wrench from an old whirlpool belt drive washer.  Heavy duty piece of metal and the end of it covers the metal hub nicely without messing with the plastic part.  Then I use an over-sized ball peen hammer to tap the other end of the spanner wrench and work the coupler piece into place.  Have done several dozen like this and have yet to break one during installation or get a callback for a broken coupler.  Also, since it's an OEM part, I guarantee it for 5 years.  Still counting down...

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if you put the rubber part of the coupling over the half of the plastic part of the coupling you are trying to install it will center a 1/2 inch socket inside it and make for easy installation, i use a 9 inch extension to install the one on the trans

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Are these the newer style couplings with the metal insert? Is it stripping on motor or gear case? Are shafts on motor and gear case in perfect condition or worn at all. Any wear and that could be the problem.

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Most likely cause is the neutral drain.  

 

Put the timer to rinse, put a flat screw driver in the lid switch hole to activate the switch and start the washer. After about 6 minutes the water will start to drain out of the washer. When it starts to drain, the water should drain completely before spinning. If it starts to spin when the water is still in the tub you will need a neutral drain kit. This is the hardest job you can do on a top load washer.  Some good videos on youtube. 

 

Beware of the couplings with the metal inner rings. If you have a bad neutral drain the couplings with metal inner rings will strip out your motor shaft or your transmission shaft,

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Neutral-Drain-kit/388253/2911

 

Neutral-Drain-kit-388253--00882045.jpg

Edited by KCTBURY
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I don't think a bad Neutral Drain would strip the Coupling...

Up until about 1982, the Direct Drive Whirlpool washers didn't have a Neutral Drain function.

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Didn't only one year, the first year the DirectDrive came out, 1982 not have the neutral drain?

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  Direct to spin models were made up into at least 1984. I have notes on a model LA7400XMW2, sn C4305625. (Sept. 1984), no neutral drain. Operator manual copyright 1984, parts manual, 1984.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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Speaking about couplings.  I bought some fsp couplings from an ebay source and noticed it said USA on the fsp label and Mexico on the coupling. Anybody know where these things are made?

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Didn't only one year, the first year the DirectDrive came out, 1982 not have the neutral drain?

 

  Model LA5600XPW0, 1985, no neutral drain. Next version of this model, XPW1, also 1985 has the neutral drain.

 

Eric

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Model LA5600XPW0, 1985, no neutral drain.

Next version of this model, XPW1, also 1985 has the neutral drain.

The "new" Neutral Drain Transmission was phased-in over 2 years

here's some examples

 

LA5600XPW0

1985 Direct-Into-Spin washer parts list

http://appliantology.org/files/file/776-whirlpool-washer-la5600xpw0-direct-into-spin-parts-list/

 

LA5600XPW1

1985 Neutral Drain washer parts list

http://appliantology.org/files/file/775-whirlpool-washer-la5600xpw1-neutral-drain-1985-parts-list/

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Speaking about couplings.  I bought some fsp couplings from an ebay source and noticed it said USA on the fsp label and Mexico on the coupling. Anybody know where these things are made?

I don't know if Whirlpool is really proud of their packaging being made in the USA or if they are trying to deceive the customer into thinking the parts inside are made in the USA.

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I need to amend my comment made earlier. The fsp product was a lid switch not a coupling. USA on the fsp label, Mexico on the switch.

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As the unit comes up to speed in spin, does it start getting louder and louder? Most likely your trans is binding up in spin and taking out the coupling.

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Now 1985 change over sounds more right and 1985 is when I started in appliance repair and one of the first factory tech class that I remember attending was on the new neutral drain transmission.

 

They had a cutout transmission mounted on a display platform so the internal operations could be somewhat observed.

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Could be multiply issues showing. If it were only one it would be fine but...

1. Neutral drain

2. Batch of bad part

3. Bad transmission

4. Gremlins

Is the coupling on, so that the shaft of the motor and trans are just barely peaking out from the coupling. If not that could pinch the rubber/nylon piece causing a slight bind.

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