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GE JTP35WOM1ww double oven

9 posts in this topic

I replaced the temp sensor in this oven in January of last year. I was called this week about the oven not heating. I put the probe of my thermometer in the oven and turned it on. It went right to temperature. I then set the clock for an hour at 350F. It went right to 350 and stayed there. After 20 minutes I was satisfied and left. I got a call several hours later with the same complaint. It was not getting hot. 

The next day I checked the sensor(1075 ohms) and the hi limit. Once again it heated fine until I had to stop after 20 minutes. Is the ERC going bad?

 

Thanks.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

It does sound like the ERC is going bad. 

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ERC is a strong possibility but also your sensor or the harness could be shorting only after a period of time at high temps.

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Sorry,  I don't have the schematic on this unit.  Is that a mechanical thermostat to the right of the ERC?  Upper and lower cooling fans working ok?  Does problem affect both ovens?

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Last time I had a problem like this on a double oven, I found out that the customer ran self clean on both ovens at the same time. I was not aware you could do that. Her manual, however, had a very large print warning advising against it.

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Just returned on a GE DBL wall oven which we replaced the Control Board and both sensors, even thou the old ones checked out.... Had almost exactly the same complaint.  "Why didn't you fix it the first time?!" We got there and it checked out in the 20 mins were were there... The New board was bad... it happends.

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Pduff

There is a mechanical thermostat to the right of the erc. Please tell me what the cooling fans should be doing. I don't have a schematic either. There is no manual control for the fans. Thanks.

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Normally, the squirrel cage fans should run whenever the oven is in operation.  Their primary function is to protect the control board and vent hot air from sections outside of the oven cavities.  The ovens should have their own vents.  I see a couple of bimetal thermostats in the upper control.  One or two of them may control the cooling fan motors.  Whether they are normally open or normally closed depends on their function.  Any other bimetals, resettable or not are thermal cutouts for each oven.  I'm guessing if the upper oven is on and heating, the fan for that oven should run.  Trace the wires from the upper fan motor to any bimetal thermostats.  Check for 120 volts at the upper fan motor.  Check continuity on those upper bimetals.  I'll assume one is normally open and one is normally closed.  One to make sure fan runs and another to shut it off when cool.  I'm pretty sure your upper and lower tco's are good or the oven wouldn't heat at all.  Still wondering about that mechanical t-stat does.  Brothers, a little help with a schematic?

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