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AlexM

Whirlpool Dishwasher Model# WDT790SAYB, Fills and Drains OK, Doesn't Run

25 posts in this topic

This newer looking Whirlpool DW fills and drains, but does not circulate water.  I checked connections OK, float switch OK, power supply OK.  While I was waiting for pump to start washing, I was hearing clicking sounds from the main board, possibly relay?  How do you check for power to the motor, do you have to pull the unit from under the cabinet?  Is there a fuse that would be causing this? Does anybody have the tech sheet or service manual for this unit?  Thanks.

 

I struggle with diagnosing Dishwashers...is this common?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Had the same symptom last week on a unit with the same pump assembly.  Ended up being a bad motor.  Changed the pump assembly and all is good.

 

EDIT:  Make sure you check this with the connector connected to the pump.  

 

gallery_55589_30_174351.png

Edited by Strathy

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Outstanding wiring diagram!  Very cool how you outlined the area.  This is very useful and I will check for 120vac at the motor connection.  Thanks A Million!

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The new Whirlpool dishwasher Global Wash System (pretty, a'int it) uses a diverter motor.  Harkens back to days of yore with the Vikings or Askos.  Vaskos.  We'll see how these diverters hold up.

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What is this that your talking about, is it something that diverts the water from the bottom spray arm up to the center and top?  Do you have any information on this? Thanks.

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Diverter Motor

as mentioned on wiring diagram above

# 10

W1207147-00006.png

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are these a common motor to fail?  I realize this is not the issue on this unit.

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We'll see how these diverters hold up.

 

This is a great new source for leaks! You'll have to replace the sump (only way to replace the seal), diverter motor, and the now corroded wire harness...

Edited by Chat_in_FL

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Don't forget there is a rework on the one time use hose clamp on these models. WHY did they have to take lessons from Asko on how NOT to build a dishwasher?

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Don't forget there is a rework on the one time use hose clamp on these models.

Technical Service Pointer #: W10547922

Serial Numbers:

Serial Number Range: F20100000 to F21399999

Concern:

Leak potential between wash motor and sump

Cause:

Outlet hose clamp to sump may not be properly crimped. This is the hose clamp on the sump side of the small hose (pressure side of wash motor).

Correction:

Replace existing outlet Hose Clamp with new service replacement clamp using

Kit # W10548435. Be certain to follow the instructions included with the kit.

 Call 800-442-5708 with model number, serial number, and description of issue for repair authorization.

 If approved, Whirlpool will provide the parts and labor free of charge. Reference all Parts and Labor charges to R31606.

http://appliantology.org/files/file/2053-whirlpool-global-wash-system-gws-dishwasher-service-pointer-leak-potential-between-wash-motor-and-sump/

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Great info, does anybody have the service manual so I can put it in diagnostic mode and check for error codes?  Thanks

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OK, I went back to run these test:

 

1. looked underneath for the motor connection to check for 120vac and couldn't actually see what I was doing, so i moved to the board.

2. filled with water and was supposed to be in wash mode and I put my needle leads into the two holes next to P5, (attached pic)

3. Am I in the right holes?

4. I got no voltage at these locations.

 

The one thing I'm clear on, is this: there is for sure a distinctive clicking sound coming from the main board, possibly a relay...I can't help but think this is a board issue...thoughts?

post-71964-0-74345300-1368759711_thumb.j

post-71964-0-14681300-1368759726_thumb.j

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I checked mine right at the motor ... I was hearing clicks from the board and thought the same as you.  But when I checked at the motor (with the connector still connected) I found there was 120 down there, but no motor action.  Yours might be a different problem though.  

Edited by Strathy

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the wiring diagram (above) shows the Motor connects to P5, with the (2) Light Blue Wires

It also shows a Fuse F8 (soldered?) on the Board, OR a jumper wire W2

and another Fuse F9

If your Board has a blown because of a bad Motor,

a replacement Board may also blow the Fuse

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So what your saying is that I might need a new motor assembly and board?

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So what your saying is that I might need a new motor assembly and board?

you'd have to do some more tests

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Great News!  I installed a new sump assembly, only took about 45 minutes including pulling the unit and reinstalling, works great!  No need for a new board.  Customer is happy and now I know what to do on the next one.

 

Thanks Agian for the Help!

post-71964-0-68189800-1369876631_thumb.j

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Awesome!  Thanks for posting the outcome and that great photo!   :dude:

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Nice job.  This motor/sump assembly is easily changed without pulling the DW or even disconnecting the power.  Disconnect and remove the drain motor from the front.  Reach in and flip the 3 lock tabs.  Push the pump/sump up into the tub.  Then disconnect the wires from inside the dishwasher.  (Careful of the sharp edges.) Reassemble the same way.  About 20 mins total.  WP really did make these pretty easy to service.

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This is a great new source for leaks! You'll have to replace the sump (only way to replace the seal), diverter motor, and the now corroded wire harness...

Does anyone know if a repair wire harness exists for this, or do you really have to replace the entire harness: W10496093? Chat, I've seen this before during an inspection a couple years ago and just saw another one yesterday.

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Does anyone know if a repair wire harness exists for this, or do you really have to replace the entire harness: W10496093? Chat, I've seen this before during an inspection a couple years ago and just saw another one yesterday.

You have to order the harness, but I've cut and spliced just the wires to the diverter motor. I look for this everytime I work on a GWS now, saves me a recall and the customer possible water damage.

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I've recently been seeing lots of these new WP dishwashers where the diverter valves go bad. The unit will fill and drain just fine, but the wash motor will never run. The complaint I get from my customers is that the dishwasher works ok its just not cleaning the dishes well-they are still just as dirty. I always come prepared to these calls with the entire sump/motor assembly which comes with a new diverter valve.  I start the cycle, unit fills, then just sits there. I usually always hear a continuous clicking coming from the diverter valve.  I will put my fingers on it and I can feel the clicking...maybe plastic gears slipping.  I'm not exactly sure how the diverter, main control and wash motor work together, but my hunch is if the diverter cannot open or close the way it is supposed to, the board will not relay 120VAC to the main wash motor. WHile that diverter valve is continuously clicking away I get 0VAC  to the main wash motor. I've probably done 4 or 5 of these in the last year and by replacing the entire sump/motor assembly with diverter valve, it has fixed the problem every time.   

sump/motor assembly:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Whirlpool-Dishwasher-Pump-And-Motor-Assembly/WPW10671942/4449143?modelNumber=WDF760SADM0&ss=a9b5i444d1931732&mr=1

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Good intel, Brother SC, thanks for posting that! 

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