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Wall Oven KEBI171SBL0 Bad Thermostat NLA, Got Universal. Help. No wiring diagram in oven.


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17 replies to this topic

#1 richseattle56

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 07:22 PM

I need a tech sheet for this oven. Old part has L1, L2, H1, H2, P, & A. 3 other terminals got to self-clean micro switch which will not be connected. One other terminal which I have no idea what it is for. OEM part # is 4164361. The universal has terminals L1,L2, 1, 2, 3, 4. Univeral Part # is 5430-175.

 

 

 

Link to picture of OEM part:

 

http://www.repaircli.../4164361/558556

 

 

 

Picture below is of wiring diagram on universal part instructions.

Attached Files


Edited by richseattle56, 05 May 2013 - 08:06 PM.


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#2 telefunkenu47

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 08:37 PM

Hollywood stove museum in L.A. Will rebuild the old control. I have used them before. those guys rock. Dont know the number. Look them up.


Even root canal is easy...if you're a dentist...

#3 richseattle56

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 08:49 PM

The old Thermostat will not move, stuck. Can they fix that, plus already bought Universal.


Edited by richseattle56, 05 May 2013 - 08:50 PM.


#4 telefunkenu47

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 06:34 AM

I dunno, probably...give em a call.


Even root canal is easy...if you're a dentist...

#5 suampman

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:58 PM

 Which universal thermostat do you have. There are four configurations. Depending on the config you can ohm the thermostat to figure out which element terminals go where.



#6 richseattle56

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:28 PM

The Universal is a Robertshaw 5430-175. Friend of a relative called online appliance part company, said this one would work. but self- clean would not work. No biggie. No tech sheet in old KitchenAide wall oven. The online person failed to tell my distant associate that you need to have a tech sheet, or wiring diagram. If I could get a 1980's KitchenAide Wall Oven techsheet, or wiring diagram might help.



#7 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:41 PM

You may have to look at your original switch an match its behavior with one of the switches listed on the Universal switch diagram. Once you do that, then it should be easy to match up the wires. I scoured all of my sources and could not find anything on that oven


Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#8 suampman

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:52 PM

It looks like you have the thermostat on the upper left. If so with the thermostat isolated you should be able to turn the thermostat on and ohm from L1 to other terminals. Two of them should have continuity to L1. Probably 1 & 2. Then you know what terminals go to one side of the each element. It looks like with the thermostat on, if you ohm out the other two terminals to L2 the one that has continuity will be the other side of the bake element. Thats is the best I can help without more info, but I think it will work. Label as you go.


Edited by suampman, 06 May 2013 - 08:55 PM.


#9 suampman

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 08:58 PM

I left out that the terminal that is left should have continuity to L2 when switched to broil. That terminal is the other side of the broil element.



#10 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 09:05 PM

you can use P on your original switch to pretty much narrow down which of the patterns on your instructions matches your original switch. If it has continuity with L2 then there are only two patterns that match that...etc
Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#11 Vets Appliance

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 11:03 AM

I'm trying to figure out how I can phrase this so that it will be taken in the helpful spirit that it is meant in rather than have anyone feel insulted... please remember that, like someone from the government, I'm here to help.

 

The only way I can think of to phrase this is that if you don't know enough about chasing down wiring to use a meter and the universal instructions to figure out how to wire it, then please, please enlist the help of someone who does.

 

The universal diagram, a meter and an understanding of how to run down wiring is really all you need to do this. You use to meter to identify which oven wires are connected to what (bake, broil, L1, L2, etc.), label them with tape and then use the universal diagram and the grey goo between your ears to figure it out.

 

But the ability to do that comes with experience and not a small amount of training in electronics troubleshooting or similar disciplines. If you don't have that, don't be shy about asking for help from someone who does. Just realize that this isn't the kind of thing that can be done via forums, email or over the phone. This is the kind of thing you need to get your paws into if you're going to figure it out.


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#12 richseattle56

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 07:23 PM

That is real helpful. Good point. Thank you, Vets Appliance.



#13 suampman

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:49 AM

Rich, did you get it fixed?



#14 richseattle56

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 04:39 PM

I did get the bake to work. The broil element heats up but not red hot? No shut off of bake element. Run away temp. Any help?


Edited by richseattle56, 11 May 2013 - 04:47 PM.


#15 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:16 AM

Sounds like you have a line switched between the bake and broil.  Are either #2 or #3 connected to the bake element?  Are both of them connected to the broil?  2 and 3 are the actuated lines...it may be that your bake has two constant non actuated lines connected to it and your broil has both actuated lines connected to it and is only getting 120v from one leg when broil is selected and nothing from the other since bake is off and that line is not energized


Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#16 suampman

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 11:35 AM

Durham is right.

 With the thermostat on bake;

Step 1.  The first two contacts will have continuity with L1. One of those contacts will go to one side of the bake element and one of those contacts will go to one side of the broil element.

Step 2.   With the thermostat still turned onto bake, the contact that has continuity with L2 on the switch, should be connected to the other side of the bake element. Notice that if you switch to broil you will lose this continuity.

Step 3.  When you switch to broil. The contact on the switch that has continuity with L2 is the contact that connects to the other side of the broil element.

              Note; This is if you are in fact using the diagram on the upper left of the picture you included.

                       Draw yourself a big picture with the switch and the elements. Work through it. You will get there. Good luck.



#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 12:33 PM

KEBS276SBL1
uses the same Thermostat
http://appliantology...id-kebs276sbl1/

ORIG                               UNIVERSAL
L2  now connects only to        L1
H2  now connects to            1 & 2
(BROIL will no longer work at the reduced power during BAKE)
Oven Pilot Light won't work until configured, later


.

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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 04:52 PM

for additional safety, (extra "break switch")

 

ORIG                                     UNIVERSAL
L2  now connects only to               L2

                                            connect 3 to L1
H2  now connects to                   1 & 2
(BROIL will no longer work at the reduced power during BAKE)
Oven Pilot Light P connects to        4


 

.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw




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