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rolandvz71

GE WBSR3000G1WS Washer: Open Fuseable Link

19 posts in this topic

WBSR3000G1WS

 

I too am having the same problem but my Fuse-able link is OPEN .....just to test motor is it OK to jumper fuse?

 

Tested Lid Switch and that's good

 

UPDATE:

Did the wire test @ the motor and here are my findings

With jumper bypassed.....

 

1. lid was closed

2. air locked level switch to make washer think there is a level in tub

3. jumper-ed fuse for testing only since my  Fuse-able link is OPEN

 

High speed agitate, blu and vio/wht  120/120

Low speed agitate, wht and vio/wht   120/120

Release air lock to simulate empty tub as pump is working correctly

High speed spin, blu and red             120/120

Low speed spin, wht and red             120/120

 

After all the testing seems like my level switch and timer is good.....So looks like I may have a bad motor??

 

Did all the testing with the motor disconnected.....did not want to chance the jumper bypass jacking up the motor

 

Also tried To Reset the Inverter Board: Push the timer knob in so the washer is idle. Unplug the machine for one minute. Plug back in and raise and lower the lid six times within 12 seconds.

 

My next move is w/jumper connected repeat all steps above.....but wanta get a thumbs up if that OK....I dont see why not its just a jumper---right?

 

Is there a SERVICE manual for this particular model?

 

Edited by rolandvz71

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

:) Edited by KCTBURY

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Might not be the problem but ohm out the solenoid on the drive shaft, if it's open then that assembly needs to be replaced

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Might not be the problem but ohm out the solenoid on the drive shaft, if it's open then that assembly needs to be replaced

OK the sol on the driveshaft? You're talkin about the 2 wires coming from what use to be the transmisson area....correct? Are these also called a "MODE SHIFTER" ? If so, can the sol be repaired instead of buying a new complete set up?  

 

Let me throw in another wrinkle.....I jumpered the motor w/all connections to the motor connected.....

I get nothin.....no LEDs, no spin, no agaite just the pump runnning until timer stops.

 

Anyone know how many ohms the Fuse-able link measures? 

 

Does anyone have a service manual?

I am courious to see the manfact warranty info on these top loaders

Edited by rolandvz71

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Doesn't the GE washer motor w/inverter flash a fault code at the leds under the motor cover?

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Might not be the problem but ohm out the solenoid on the drive shaft, if it's open then that assembly needs to be replaced

I checked it and its coming in @ 92 ohms.....looks more like the motor

 

Doesn't the GE washer motor w/inverter flash a fault code at the leds under the motor cover?

yes it does but for some reason this motor is NOT showing any LED flashing......

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Anyone know how many ohms the Fuse-able link measures? 

 

 

 Put your meter on neutral on your power cord and white/red wire on the motor plug on the far left.

Should measure continuity. If you bypass the fuse you risk blowing the motor.

 

 

 

Did you check your new lid switch? 

 

If this washer doesn't detect a lid opening it will stop operating.

 

Ohm meter on line side of your power cord and orange wire on the far left plug on the motor.

 

 

 

 

Edited by KCTBURY

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 Put your meter on neutral on your power cord and white/red wire on the motor plug on the far left.

Should measure continuity. If you bypass the fuse you risk blowing the motor.

 

 

 

Did you check your new lid switch? 

 

If this washer doesn't detect a lid opening it will stop operating.

 

Ohm meter on line side of your power cord and orange wire on the far left plug on the motor.

 

 

 

 

 

Put your meter on neutral on your power cord and white/red wire on the motor plug on the far left. Should measure continuity.

Yes I do read continuity....CLOSED

If you bypass the fuse you risk blowing the motor.

ok got it----but I jumped it for continuity testing.

Did you check your new lid switch?

Lid switch is good ---no need for a new one I ohmed it out lid open/closed and it tested good

If this washer doesn't detect a lid opening it will stop operating.

I understand

Ohm meter on line side of your power cord and orange wire on the far left plug on the motor.

OPEN when lid is OPEN and CLOSED when lid is CLOSED

 

Now with all the instructions you gave me could you please tell me what I was testing?

Sounds like you were having me test the lid switch......correct?

Sounds like the motor is shot

Edited by rolandvz71

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Ok..... I see this should be two different topics....

This is to Roland

Yes your motor is bad.

Click link to see part you need

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/WH20X10057/1567334?modelNumber=WBSR3000G1WS

Make sure your clutch is good also. Also known as a mode shifter

On expensive items I recommend buying from repair clinic because they have a great return policy.

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Ok..... I see this should be two different topics....

 

 

 

Excellent observation-- topics split.  

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If you ever want to jumper a motor or anything for that matter, make yourself a breaker with leads, (cheap to make) for the big stuff, or a fuse holder for the small stuff. If it pops the fuse or breaker you know somethin aint rite. Try to stay around the normal protection range especially on the small stuff.

Edited by suampman

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Ok..... I see this should be two different topics....

This is to Roland

Yes your motor is bad.

Click link to see part you need

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/WH20X10057/1567334?modelNumber=WBSR3000G1WS

Make sure your clutch is good also. Also known as a mode shifter

On expensive items I recommend buying from repair clinic because they have a great return policy.

Yes clutch (aka: mode shifter) is good the sol showing 92 ohms

Edited by rolandvz71

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If you ever want to jumper a motor or anything for that matter, make yourself a breaker with leads, (cheap to make) for the big stuff, or a fuse holder for the small stuff. If it pops the fuse or breaker you know somethin aint rite. Try to stay around the normal protection range especially on the small stuff.

I get the fuse holder idea....so like put a glass or blade fuse inline?

Never really heard of a breaker lead....explain...thx!

I guess this is where OHM's Law comes in......

 

120v

6.1 LRA (Lock Rotor Amps)

I get around 20 ohms

 

So I should maybe size the fuse to a fast blowing 20 or 25 amps?

Edited by rolandvz71

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A short circuit draws a huge amount of amperage until something burns. If your motor draws 12 amps get a 15 amp house breaker and connect a couple of leads and put it in the line. I use one for troubleshooting microwaves. If a fuse blows, I put the breaker across the fuse block, instead of burning up expensive fuses. Hope that helps.

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A short circuit draws a huge amount of amperage until something burns. If your motor draws 12 amps get a 15 amp house breaker and connect a couple of leads and put it in the line. I use one for troubleshooting microwaves. If a fuse blows, I put the breaker across the fuse block, instead of burning up expensive fuses. Hope that helps.

Thx for the tip! That will be a new addition to my toolbox!

 

LRA is 6.1a so 3x that would be a round 18a to cover the surge in amperage....  so a 15-20amp breaker should be fine....correct?

Edited by rolandvz71

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Different motors are different. Inrush current at start up on some motors can be 400% or more. If you have a short It will be alot more. I do not do alot of jumpering, but if i were trying to see if there was a short in the motor/inverter by jumpering the fusible link, I think a 15 amp breaker would be fine. If there is a short it will overload the breaker. 

I would definitely seek a procedure to isolate and test the inverter/motor on this unit first. I have not troubleshot one of these.

I use the method of jumpering in my previous post on microwaves to see if there is an actual problem in the microwave or the fuse blowing was an anomaly.

When I made the previous comment about jumpering the motor I should of said jumpering the fusible link going to the motor.

Good luck to you.

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Different motors are different. Inrush current at start up on some motors can be 400% or more. If you have a short It will be alot more. I do not do alot of jumpering, but if i were trying to see if there was a short in the motor/inverter by jumpering the fusible link, I think a 15 amp breaker would be fine. If there is a short it will overload the breaker. 

I would definitely seek a procedure to isolate and test the inverter/motor on this unit first. I have not troubleshot one of these.

I use the method of jumpering in my previous post on microwaves to see if there is an actual problem in the microwave or the fuse blowing was an anomaly.

When I made the previous comment about jumpering the motor I should of said jumpering the fusible link going to the motor.

Good luck to you.

I understood ya when you mentioned about jumping the fusible  link and not the motor......I will try that when I get the motor......will update my findings-THX again for all the input

Edited by rolandvz71

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Thx for the tip! That will be a new addition to my toolbox!

 

LRA is 6.1a so 3x that would be a round 18a to cover the surge in amperage....  so a 15-20amp breaker should be fine....correct?

OK the motor came in---- so I used a 15amp breaker inline before installing the fusible link and the motor took off!!

So it was the motor all along!

My guess a electrical surge or lighting strike took the motor so I'm gonna suggest a surge protector for this washer!

 

Thx for everyone on this topic!

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