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BryanS

Kenmore (LG) fridge 79579783901

25 posts in this topic

Well I guess I will see if you guys have ran into this problem. I've had it twice now and the first fridge ending up being replaced under contract. Unfortunately, this customer is a cash call. Anyway thia fridge has a water valve in the door and in the backside. The primary valve in the back wasn't working. It went bad due to receiving constant voltage. Our tech support and LG says it's a main board issue. We have changed 3 boards and it is stilk energized at all times. LG has been told this, yet they keep saying it's the board. At one point they said not use the wire harness that comes with the new valve and keep the old one on it. Well we did that and the POS is still always energized. I'm at a loss and our senior guys don't know either.

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Which coil is being energized constantly and what voltage?  Could be icemaker related.

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Bear with me, making sure I understand this system....Couple of questions....This valve in back supplies water for both the ice maker and the dispenser? If energized, water then flows to a filter then to the secondary valve for distribution to water reservoir or icemaker? If true, then is one of the coils on the secondary valve energized constantly as well? If not, then dispenser and Ice maker can be ruled out, that leaves a short or ....mainboard issue again. Should the lines that are to be energized on the secondary valve to the primary valve show continuity? If so,check it and for short . If not, then possibly connect lines to be energized on secondary valve to a new line to replace the one on the primary valve (if physically possible). Take in consideration I am not electrical whiz kid nor am I looking at a wiring diagram.

 

As I think about it, make sure that the other leg, I guessing the neutral leg, is not being energized as well. If it is, then the board is energizing appropriately but the other one is crossed with an energized leg.  If so, simply replace that by tapping into another properly working neutral line.

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Just to pile-on with the preceding questions from the Brethren, what's the part number of the board you replaced?

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The back valve is always energized which is a single solenoid. The secondary dual valve in the door doesn't energize until call for water.

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We must have a polarity or neutral ground issue somewhere depending on the actual voltage being supplied to that filter valve.  Start from power source (outlet) and work your way in.  You've already thrown 3 main boards at this thing to no avail.  Also check wire harness at lh door going to dispenser.

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I'm lost. What would be the purpose of a valve if it's always energized? Is it a meter?

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Well PDuff it all depends on if I get the call back. Manager didn't listen when I told him to send me back only. It isn't supposed to be energized all the time Durham. Typically it should only be getting power on call for water at the same time the secondary valve energizes. It a stupid design. Why we need two valves is beyond me. Samurai, I don't have the part number off hand. I called it in and was given the part# from LG's website. I'm just wondering what their purpose for the two diodes on that primary valve is for and if maybe those could be the issue. Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I get it back and figure it out. You know Sears though and they will only want me to spend 35 minutes :)

Edited by BryanS

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Okay, I misunderstand your previous post. I thought you were saying it suppose to be energized and my question then was what would the reason for it....forgot you were the OP...call it a senior moment.  Anyhow generally, the reason you have two valves  energized at the same time is because the first valve  sends water to a filter....from the filter it goes to the secondary valve which in turns sends the water to dispenser or the icemaker, whichever calls for it.   With a one valve design,  the water passes to  the filter first then to a valve. In my opinion, the problem with the single valve and filter design is the filter is always under pressure and a cracked filter will flood a house. But it is a less expensive design  

 

so back to your design... you can circumvent the problem  as I stated earlier if you can't solve it any other way.

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I've had trouble getting the correct parts for lGs. The board that's been changed 3 times is it the same part# each time? If your sure the only way that valve is getting voltage is from the main board I gotta think your getting the wrong board. If you still have the original board you can double check the part number on the board itself.

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I believe I did verify the part number off of the board. LG gave us the part number. We have a team that we call to go to LG and Samsung websites to get the part numbers.

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Here's the service manual for this unit: http://appliantology.org/files/file/80-lg-french-door-refrigerator-service-manual/

Not seeing the diode pair you're referencing. Sounds vaguely Frigidaire-ish. Can you post a wiring diagram?

Thats what I was as thinking. I'm assuming that they are diodes. There are two blue square things wires into to the water valve harness. Some harnesses only have one blue square. The bad thing is I wasn't the first tech out, and thw first guy put the wrong water valve on. I went back and ordered the correct one. Another tech went back and he was the one told by LG to ordered a 4th board. I don't have a schematic. Sears is stingy with their stuff and I can't take anything off of their computer.

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If the blue square things are wired across each coil of the water valve harness connectors then they are not diodes, they would most likely be filter capacitors to stop the spike of voltage feeding back to electronic circuits when the coils de-energize.

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What's the serial number on this unit?

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After perusing the manual (great cross referencing Samurai!) The question of part no for the replacement board is a good one. Was it the mainboard, dispenser drive pwb assembly or both? It also would be helpful to know which line is being energized.

btw can someone explain the last line of section 8-1-6 on page 29 of the manual.. either massive typos or I need more coffee.

"When after initially establishing the water comes out, the water tank inside fills and until at the time of quality the hour is caught. "

ok tbe last part must have been bad auto dictation... it probably should read something like.." water tank inside fills until the quantity of water is sought."

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Could that valve be wired with the LH & RH door heaters?

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In situations like this you need to figure out what is know and what is assumed... Is that valve getting its voltage from the board? There has been a number of boards in this unit, are all the pins plugged into their correct spot? Have the install directions been followed? (Some GE modles you need to cut wires in the back for thir universal board.)

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What about the switches in the door? Do they go from open to close and close to open when need be?

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What's the serial number on this unit?

I don't know at the moment. The last tech only sent me the model. Hopefully I will be going back soon.

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If the blue square things are wired across each coil of the water valve harness connectors then they are not diodes, they would most likely be filter capacitors to stop the spike of voltage feeding back to electronic circuits when the coils de-energize.

I think you are right about them being capacitors. I still haven't been back to this fridge yet though.

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This fridge has been fixed. We finally got someone at tech support who knew what the heck he was doing. They had us unplug the ice maker connector on the mainboard. The 120v to the primary valve was gone. Replaced shorted ice maker and all is well. Btw this was a guy at Sears tech support and not the worthless clowns at LG. Also it has to be unplugged at the board and not in the door to check this problem.

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Wow, this is one for my Evernote! Thanks a ton for posting this, Bryan!

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No problem. Another tech ran it and called me with the info. We have both been on it a few times and told each other to call with what we found.

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