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VaEagle

Dead washer. Kenmore 110.92591200

33 posts in this topic

I really wish I was not back here again. On my last visit I found that I had a bad capacitor which I fixed. All was well - for a while. Then the wife tells me that sometimes the washer "paused", and then eventually would continue and finish the cycle. Sometimes it just ran normally.

 

Today, filled with water, agitated, and then got to rinse/spin cycle. Then just stopped. No humm, no nada. Acts like it is unplugged. Drained some water, moved to fill cycle, solenoid works and water flows. That is all this thing does. Jumped the lid switch. Still nada. No agitate, no spin.

 

Thoughts ?

 

Timer ? Any way to jumper the timer ?

 

I fear it may be time to put this old beast out to pasture. 

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

If the timers stops at the rinse cycle and doesn't  advance until manually turned it is a bad timer.  However, when timer is stalled, put some slight upward pressure on the timer shaft.  If washer starts there is a trick to get some extra life out of your old timer.  Open console and wedge a block of wood under timer. Piece of 2"x4" should be perfect.  This will keep pressure on the on/off shaft and timer will run normally.  Of course it's better to just replace the timer because that design washer is worth it!  Timer p/n 3946475.

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What method did you use to "jump out" the lid switch?

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To jump out the lid switch I opened the console, disconnected the connector, and jumpered between the two outside (not the ground) wires with a piece of wire. I have done this before.

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That's one of the model series I can't find a wiring diagram for ..

Dou you have a wiring diagram you could scan & upload somewhere ?

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Here is a pic of the diagram.

post-22819-0-56548800-1368242036_thumb.j

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Today, filled with water, agitated, and then got to rinse/spin cycle. 

 

Sounds like the cold water side of the fill valve may be clogged.  If you set the machine to fill with cold water only, does it fill?

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Yes, it fills just fine.

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  After it stops filling, your in agitate mode, if the timer does not advance on it's own at this point nor if you are in spin mode you either have a bad timer, faulty motor overload switch or faulty/broken wire/connection somewhere.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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I'm leaning towards timer. Again, the wife tells me that for the last month, the machine would "pause", sometimes for 15 minutes at the spin cycle, then start again. Now I get no hum/noise/nothing at all from either the motor or the timer mechanism. The timer does not advance at all on its own. When manually rotated to the fill or rinse cycle, it does send power to the fill valves, so it is getting power.

 

Question - if it had anything to do with the (new in February) motor, wouldn't the timer still advance ?

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  Neutral to the timer is through the motor overload switch. Neutral to the fill valves is not. Seems you have an open neutral somewhere. Check continuity from power plug neutral (wide blade) to motor white wire and white/black wire (motor wire harness connected to motor).

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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Have continuity from plug neutral to white wire on harness. No continuity from plug neutral to white/black.

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  Unplug motor connector and check directly between motor wires white and white/black. Check terminals at thermal overload switch mounted to motor casing.

 

Eric

 

WhirlpoolMotorConnector.jpg

Edited by fairbank56

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no continuity between whit adn white/black. I cannot find "terminals" for overload switch. There is a only one white wire running to a single terminal on a small black housing attached to the motor from the wire harness on the motor.

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Do you have continuity between the white/black wire and the blue wire? This is through the high speed winding, should be an ohm or two.

 

Eric

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post-22819-0-02980400-1368291901_thumb.j

Took a picture of my wires. CAnnot seem to attach ! Did it before but not now. How do you insert image in this post ? Wires look different from what you shared.

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  Yours look like this? You have 3-speed motor, other photo was 2-speed.

 

Whirlpool3352287Motor.jpg

Edited by fairbank56

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Looks like what is connected from the terminal to the motor on mine is a green wire.m the terminal is labeled at that position as wht/bk.



That is it - 3 speed. Di dcheck for continuity btwn white and green. No continuity.

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  What is the part number on your motor. When I try to view your attachment, it says I don't have permission. Your thumbnail is too small to see very well

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Trying to send pic this way. Attached as .doc



Motor part number 3352287

wires.doc

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Just curioius, did it stop during the drain cycle just before spin or did it stop in the middle of the spin cycle? There is a normal pause for the transmission to shift into neutral so that it will drain without turning the tub. then it pauses again to shift into gear to spin the tub. Does it then spin after opening and closing the lid? If so, then the timer is not going in or out of transimssion shift and opening the lid is allowing it to complete the transition...if this is the scenario then failed timer. But as fairbanks says, check all wiring first.

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  Looks like non-OEM motor? Is that the original one or the replacement? Do you have continuity between green and blue?

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2 ohms between green and blue



"did it stop during the drain cycle just before spin or did it stop in the middle of the spin cycle? There is a normal pause for the transmission to shift into neutral so that it will drain without turning the tub. then it pauses again to shift into gear to spin the tub. Does it then spin after opening and closing the lid? If so, then the timer is not going in or out of transimssion shift and opening the lid is allowing it to complete the transition...if this is the scenario then failed timer. But as fairbanks says, check all wiring first"

 

It stopped before the drain/spin cycle. Understand normal pause. It will not spin or agitate at all. Opening lid and closing has no effect.


 


  Looks like non-OEM motor? Is that the original one or the replacement? Do you have continuity between green and blue?

Replacement motor. Like I said - 2.0 ohms between green and blue.

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Fairbank had a good question regarding OEM motor.. the wires don't match what I see and are they  putting "made in china" stickers on the new motors now?

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  Ok, well, looks like the thermal switch is bad (open). I see the motor is made in China. Must be a knock-off, these are usually made in USA or Mexico. Thermal switch cannot be replaced.

 

Eric

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