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Dead washer. Kenmore 110.92591200

will not run

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32 replies to this topic

#21 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:32 PM

Just curioius, did it stop during the drain cycle just before spin or did it stop in the middle of the spin cycle? There is a normal pause for the transmission to shift into neutral so that it will drain without turning the tub. then it pauses again to shift into gear to spin the tub. Does it then spin after opening and closing the lid? If so, then the timer is not going in or out of transimssion shift and opening the lid is allowing it to complete the transition...if this is the scenario then failed timer. But as fairbanks says, check all wiring first.


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#22 fairbank56

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:34 PM

  Looks like non-OEM motor? Is that the original one or the replacement? Do you have continuity between green and blue?



#23 VaEagle

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:40 PM

2 ohms between green and blue



"did it stop during the drain cycle just before spin or did it stop in the middle of the spin cycle? There is a normal pause for the transmission to shift into neutral so that it will drain without turning the tub. then it pauses again to shift into gear to spin the tub. Does it then spin after opening and closing the lid? If so, then the timer is not going in or out of transimssion shift and opening the lid is allowing it to complete the transition...if this is the scenario then failed timer. But as fairbanks says, check all wiring first"

 

It stopped before the drain/spin cycle. Understand normal pause. It will not spin or agitate at all. Opening lid and closing has no effect.


 


  Looks like non-OEM motor? Is that the original one or the replacement? Do you have continuity between green and blue?

Replacement motor. Like I said - 2.0 ohms between green and blue.


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#24 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:42 PM

Fairbank had a good question regarding OEM motor.. the wires don't match what I see and are they  putting "made in china" stickers on the new motors now?


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#25 fairbank56

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:43 PM

  Ok, well, looks like the thermal switch is bad (open). I see the motor is made in China. Must be a knock-off, these are usually made in USA or Mexico. Thermal switch cannot be replaced.

 

Eric



#26 VaEagle

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:46 PM

Oh well - thanks to all for your help. Since the cabinet has problems siting on the frame, might go shopping for new machine. They just don't build them like this one anymore.


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#27 fairbank56

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:47 PM

The other terminal of the thermal switch should be visible on the other side of the motor. Does it have the green wire connected to it? Unplug the white wire and green wire from thermal switch and jump them together for test purpose. Motor should run if otherwise ok but you have no overload protection.



#28 fairbank56

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:50 PM

You got that right. Don't even bother with the replacement Whirlpool design. The only decent toploader now is the Speed Queen ($800) and even it has dumbed down water level and temp control. IMO, your better off fixing what you have or looking for another good used direct drive.

 

Eric



#29 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:52 PM

Don't forget to check out Samurai's warning about inexpensive parts found on the web http://ymlp.com/zsTPYA


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#30 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:55 PM

 Since the cabinet has problems siting on the frame,....

This usually can be remedied 


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#31 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 02:06 PM

Motor Overload device ..

look at that plastic White Connector on the Motor White wire ..

looks like a burned connection terminal


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#32 VaEagle

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 02:14 PM

Found the source problem ! Attached a pic in the word .doc. The crimp on the spade lug for the wire going into the rear connector on the thermal switch had come loose.Geeez ! And yes, probably wouldn't have happened with OEM part ! Lesson learned.

 

Now, about the remedy for the cabinet to frame issue ?

 

Thanks again for all your help. No way I would have gotten this far this fast without the "check the continuity" advice !

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#33 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 04:23 PM

Part link to the OEM replacement motor for others coming along later:  http://www.repaircli...er=110.92591200

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