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KENMORE 11070912990


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18 replies to this topic

#1 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 05:57 PM

have a kenmore 90 series mod# 110.70912990, have changed out hi temp, cycling, thermal fuse(just for the heck of it), and dryness board.  and dryer still fails to get to temp.(on timed dry high heat)  entire blower clear and clean running with and without rear duct attatched.  with a help of another tech he kind of told me how to jump the timer.  he said to jump red and black wires.  when i did so, got a couple clicks but dryer didnt turn on.  relpalced those wires, and remembered a whirlpool i was working on where i was told to jump the white and tan wires, so out of curiosity it jumped those on this dryer and viola, dryer is heating and cycling on and of as its suppossed to.  does this mean the timer is bad?  new to bussiness so not sure but i think thats what it sounds like.



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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:20 PM

Shonuff sounds like a bad timer:  http://www.repaircli...er=110.70912990

 

Do you have the wiring diagram handy?



#3 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:22 PM

yes but am very new to this biz (9 months)  so not exactly sure what all symbols mean yet.  what am i looking for?



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:25 PM

Red to Black would by-pass the Timer ...

White to Tan is the Buzzer circuit

http://appliantology...0-wiring-sheet/

what are the temperatures at the Dryer Vent outlet on Timed Dry ?

(empty load, high heat)


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#5 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:28 PM

then why is all working properly with tan and white jumped?



#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:35 PM

I don't know..
loose connection somewhere else ?
Try removing that jumper ..
 
sluggish Gas Valve Coils ?
(common problem)
when the Dryer should be heating, but isn't,
observe the Ignitor..
Is it glowing ?
 
http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=3479

 

Gas-Valve-Solenoid-279834-00928758.jpg


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#7 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:40 PM

replaced coils so thats all good.  did switch timer wit another.  guess loose connections makes sense.  have wet load in now so will remove jumper and let  u know,



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:43 PM

lint build-up in the Motor Centrifugal Switch ?
or the Flame Sensor Switch

although:

... he said to jump red and black wires. when i did so, got a couple clicks but dryer didnt turn on.

that would be the Gas Valve Coils clicking,
but not working ... would seem to be bad Coils
OR a bad Gas Valve assembly
Has this Dryer worked OK up till now,
OR has it been in storage for any time ?


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:53 PM

ok if i jumped the red and black yesterday and all i got was 2 clicks but no lift off, and that is supposed to bypass timer, if i jump red and black now should dryer operate?



#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 07:56 PM

maybe,

also read my edited post above


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#11 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 08:07 PM

been sitting in my garage  one of my mystery dryer problems.  but had same issue when i first aquired it. 



have wet load in dryer with replacement timer, and timer connected properly, is, so far, heating to temp.  only difference is i took tan, white and grey out of 3way harnness and connected individualy, could that have something to do with it?  but like u said tan and white only deal with buzzer?  am very confussed!!



#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 08:33 PM

... been sitting in my garage 

how long ?


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#13 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 09:51 PM

bout 5 months. 



#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 10:17 PM

if the "rubber cap" wasn't re-installed on the Gas Line Pipe input,

bugs and / or moisture may have entered and clogged or rusted the inside of the Gas Valve ..


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#15 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 10:21 PM

i thought that too.  but update.  took jumper off like suggested, the second timer i had installed worked fine with jumper off (not like last night!!)  so curiosity got to me and installed original timer wit no jumper and am testing now.  any ideas?



#16 micabay

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 09:03 AM

http://appliantology...up/#entry236263

Gotta figure out where the voltage is and isn't.

#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 11:27 AM

http://appliantology...up/#entry236263

Gotta figure out where the voltage is and isn't.

 

 

That's the name o' da game, mah bruvah!  



#18 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 03:29 PM

Samurai Appliance Repair Man, on 13 May 2013 - 12:27 PM, said:

That's the name o' da game, mah bruvah!

a game much like football.....

on defense...run to where the ball is
on offense....run to where the other folks aint

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#19 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 09:22 PM

ok figured it out.  first timer bad,  second timer good but with out 3way harness on grey, tan, and white side.  must be that it is not making correct contact.  so just put terminals in one by one.  4 loads and going working as supposed to.  thank you gents for ur input....  but still not sure how to check voltage as suggested.  any tips for rookie.  am very comfortable with electricity but just not had anyone to walk me through it step by step and exactly where to put multi meter leads.  thanks again...






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