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Viking Bottom freezer fridge - ice maker water valve replacement

4 posts in this topic

Hi all.  New to the forum, but have been repairing my appliances for years.  Thanks to the internet, I have been able to tackle repairs that I would never have tried before.

 

I have a 36" Viking bottom freezer fridge.  The ice maker stopped working a few weeks ago.  It is one of those standard whirlpool type units.

 

These are the checks that I have already done.

 

1. shorted T-H.  With the freezer door closed, the motor will turn, but no sound from water valve.

2. checked for frozen water tube.  pushed approx. 6" long zap strap into tube, and didn't meet any resistance.

3. manually poured water into the ice maker, and ice was produced, and released into the tray.

 

conclusion is that it must be water valve or wiring to the water valve.  Are there any more test procedures to be sure that it is the water valve, and not the wiring between the ice module and the valve?

 

Attached are pictures of the water valve.

 

Are there any procedures to doing this water valve replacement?

 

The space seems very tight, and the water tube to the ice maker seems like there is no extra play.  not sure how to get a hand in there to get that water tube off.  any tricks?

 

thanks for any help.

 

photo12_zpscbc7b5ee.jpg

photo22_zps6e38844a.jpg

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

model number ?

If you can get to the connections, you could check for (nearly) 100v when the IceMaker cycles..

OR do an OHM test of the Water Valve coil.

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So, from what I can tell from the service manual, V-N should show 500 to 1500 ohms resistance if operating correctly, and power off ie freezer door open.

 

V-N shows 0 ohms when freezer door is open (power off to ice maker)

 

Is there any way to check that power is being fed to the water valve through one of the probe points on the ice maker module?  I think if I short T-H to activate the ice maker, attach my multimeter probes to V and N, I should get 120V after I close the door, and the ice maker motor makes it around to the water valve activation portion.

 

thoughts?

 

Its very hard to get to the water valve.  I would prefer not to have to take everything apart only to find that the water valve is fine, and it's something else.

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... V-N shows 0 ohms when freezer door is open (power off to ice maker)

...  if I short T-H to activate the ice maker, attach my multimeter probes to V and N, I should get 120V after I close the door, and the ice maker motor makes it around to the water valve activation portion.

 

1) OHMs should be measured with all power disconnected from the Wall Outlet

reads 0 OHMs or infinite OHMs ?

 

2) V to N, yes ..

also check main power L to N for constant 120v (Door Switches closed)

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