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Samsung RF263AEBP/XAA FDBM Refrigerator: Cold freezer but warm beer compartment

samsung refrigerator french door bottom mount warm fresh food compartment

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14 replies to this topic

#1 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 02:27 PM

Went on this call today.  I have the Fast Track Manual and, using it, found the control would go into diagnostic mode but was unresponsive to any test procedures while in diagnostic mode.  Seems like a bad board.  

 

Then I went around back to do some tests on the muthaboard.  The sensor voltage drops all checked good, all fan voltages were good (though I couldn't hear the evap fan running).  But read open through the FF evap defrost heater circuit, so either a bad bimetal or heater.  

 

I'm hoping some of our Samsung experts here (paging Brother Ohm) can help me out with a few questions:

 

- How diagnostically conclusive is it that the Main PCB is bad if it won't perform any tests in self test mode?  BTW, this PCB (DA41-00651K) is NLA, only rebuilds are available to authorized servicers.  And this unit is only 2 1/2 yrs old!  

 

- I didn't tear apart the FF compt to see if the evap fan was blocked by frost (probably was-- could see frost in the vents) and whether it was the bimetal or the heater that was open.  I don't have the service manual showing tear down for this unit.  Anyone have access to the service manual showing tear down?  

 

Given the Main PCB is NLA, what's the likelihood that just replacing the bad components in the FF compt would fix the problem?  IOW, is the Main PCB going to continue to cause problems or is it even a problem as it is?  

 

Thanks for any pearls of wisdom!  

 

 



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#2 Ohm

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 03:54 PM

I am not overly concerned about the main pcb on this. I have had some that got weird and I had to to a reset before they would act correctly. On this model I go into diagnostic mode primarily to enable defrost to assist in removal of the evap cover only when I have this symptom. It is very rare for me to see a heater problem on these. When I see them iced up... and I see them a LOT, I like to dive right in and inspect the evap. area. The cover is held on by 2 screws  that hold the center bracket (top one is beneath a cover that pops off) and the bottom 2 screws on each side of the bottom of the cover. You need to use lots of steam and go very slow to keep from damaging the cover.  Once inside, I just check the obvious... sensor, thermal cutoff and heater. Add the drain extension, reposition the sensor and repair, replace and add insulation to the cover (add strip to bottom so it seals better). Also note that the fans will attempt to turn only a few seconds at a time over a period of time and then main pcb will give up if no feedback is detected. Do a reset after unplugging usually restores this quickly. I did have one recently that would no reset no matter how I tried so I ordered a main pcb, but the customer called the next day to tell me it is working fine.


Edited by Ohm, 14 May 2013 - 03:55 PM.


#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 04:22 PM

Fantastic info, mucho domos, Brother Ohm!  Especially good news on the main PCB-- that means I can get this puppy fixed taco-pronto!

 

 

 Add the drain extension, reposition the sensor and repair, replace and add insulation to the cover (add strip to bottom so it seals better). 

 

Do you have a part number for the drain extension?  I'll add that to my shopping list for this unit.

 

Also, does the replacement evap assy (DA97-07190G) have the additional insulation already installed?

 

Is it a good idea to go ahead and replace the evap thermistor preemptively while you're in there, just as good practice?

 

Special domos for the tear down info!  

 

Thanks again! 



#4 PDuff

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 05:03 PM

Affirmative on the evap cover assy.  Gonna get the ff evap fan motor with it.  And da, replace that damnable defrost sensor (yellow wire) while you're at it whether it checks good or not.  I think you're cool with the main pcb.  Hopefully the ff defrost heater is intact and not shorted.  It's a good chance the heater is only available with the evaporator as an assembly.  Once done, you can check ff evap operation by holding both door switches closed, a couple of seconds later fan should run quietly.



#5 Ohm

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 05:30 PM

DA61-06796A is the drain clip #, DA81-05707A for the seal kit that is used to add to the cover and also to insulate the
lines to the water tank (if it has one), where the lines go into the cabinet. In my experience the defrost sensors hardly fail.

I know, I know.... every tech keeps replacing them. They almost always seem to check ok for me.
I never replace them and I don't get callbacks on Samsung defrost issues.
I do however reposition these sensors as previously discussed.



#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 05:33 PM

Domo for the drain clip pn's!  

 

 

I do however reposition these sensors as previously discussed.

 

 

Is that the little dance where you move the sensor to the middle of the top run on the evap coil?



 It's a good chance the heater is only available with the evaporator as an assembly.  

 

This is a dual evap unit and the FF evap on this one appears to have a calrod heater (from looking the exploded view diagrams).



#7 micabay

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 08:35 PM

 The cover is held on by 2 screws  that hold the center bracket (top one is beneath a cover that pops off) and the bottom 2 screws on each side of the bottom of the cover. You need to use lots of steam and go very slow to keep from damaging the cover. 

The biggest problem we have seen with these is water leaking from the FF evap.  We had another one same symptoms but, turned out to be very frosty in the FF side.

 

What sword is better for removing that back cover, hair dryer or steam?  We tried the hair dryer on one of these Samsungs with the Evap in the FF but couldn't even get the back cover off... so we told the customer to unplugg and thaw out, we'll be back in a couple of days. (they wanted to save $$ so, this was the cheapest option.)  Our steam gun is on back order, waiting on it from California... but it seems like they are shipping it directly from the factory in china.  



#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 08:43 PM

 Our steam gun is on back order, waiting on it from California... but it seems like they are shipping it directly from the factory in china.  

 

 

Whaaaa?  This is the one I use, got it from Amazon in two days.  Come buy three!  



#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 04:14 PM

Went back out and did the repair on this one today.  The hardest part was getting that evaporator fan plate off because it was stuck in place from all the frost.  But steamer and patience prevailed.  Good to replace the evaporator fan plate as an assembly because the old is very prone to cracking because of all the frost.  

 

Turns out the only problem was the open defrost limiter.  The calrod heating element was fine.  I repositioned the sensor from the vertical liquid line to the last run on the suction side of the evaporator.  Not sure if this was the right location but there was no room to put it anywhere else.  Added the drain clip and buttoned it back up.  Pretty much of a plug n chug job, inexpensive replacement parts and nice equipment to work on.  Samsung has some good things going for them from a repair standpoint.  

 

Mega Domos to Brothers Ohm, PDuff, and Micabay for the assist!  



#10 micabay

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 05:42 PM

  Added the drain clip and buttoned it back up.  Pretty much of a plug n chug job, inexpensive replacement parts and nice equipment to work on.

 

 

Drain Clip? http://www.repaircli...p/819043/726493 ?



#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 07:06 PM

Same idea as the Whirlpool one but it looks different.  And costs waaay less:  http://www.repaircli...106796A/2683162



#12 Ohm

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 09:06 PM

Went back out and did the repair on this one today.  The hardest part was getting that evaporator fan plate off because it was stuck in place from all the frost.  But steamer and patience prevailed.  Good to replace the evaporator fan plate as an assembly because the old is very prone to cracking because of all the frost.  

 

Turns out the only problem was the open defrost limiter.  The calrod heating element was fine.  I repositioned the sensor from the vertical liquid line to the last run on the suction side of the evaporator.  Not sure if this was the right location but there was no room to put it anywhere else.  Added the drain clip and buttoned it back up.  Pretty much of a plug n chug job, inexpensive replacement parts and nice equipment to work on.  Samsung has some good things going for them from a repair standpoint.  

 

Mega Domos to Brothers Ohm, PDuff, and Micabay for the assist!  

 

That is the proper relocation for the defrost sensor. Great Job ;)



#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 09:15 PM

Thanks for the confirmation, Brother Ohm.  That uncertainty was the only thing that was bothering me about that job and now that that's gone, I can rest easy knowing a callback is not imminent on this one.    :beach:



#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 10:02 PM

for reference

Part number: DA61-06796A

Part number: DA61-06796A


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#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 10:04 PM

Nice!  That's the pic I was wantin'.  Domo, Reg.   :smile:







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: samsung, refrigerator, french door, bottom mount, warm fresh food compartment

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