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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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suampman

106.8492410 Kenmore refrigerator

11 posts in this topic

This refrigerator has an intermittent problem. The defrost timer has 2.5 ohms across the compressor contacts. Repair clinic sent a generic timer that has a little black wire for the timer motor. There are different configurations on what spade to slide this wire onto. That is why I was looking for a diagram. No diagram with the machine. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I guess my question is ; does this refer have continuous run, cumulative run application 1, or cumulative run application 2? Thanks.

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When I cannot find the wiring diagram  for a Whirlpool manufactured fridge, the following has worked for me

A)According to the timer manual, For whirlpools If your timer connector has a white wire it is continuous (or possible a cumulative version 2, but hook up is the same) use procedure 1 (wire to terminal MARKED #1...which does not mean the first pin)

B)If there is a red wire use procedure 2 (wire to terminal MARKED #2) .

C) Cumulative version 2 uses procedure 3 which is the same as procedure 1(wire to terminal MARKED #1)...but usually there is a red and a white wire....but since you already determined there was a white wire you should have used procedure 1 anyway(terminal MARKED #1).

Also remember, if the timer runs when the fridge is plugged in regardless of whether the cold control is off...it is continuous ie procedure 1

So in essence, if there is a white wire use procedure 1 .....if there is a red wire and no white, wire use  procedure 2.  Ignore procedure 3 as it is the same as procedure 1.   Again, this is for wire colors used by Whirlpool.

For further reading....http://appliantology.org/files/file/51-whirlpool-kitchenaid-maytag-amana-and-jenn-air-refrigerators-adc-defrost-systems-service-manual/ give a good explanation of standard timers as well as adc

also this thread http://appliantology.org/topic/38196-puzzle-with-replacing-defrost-timer-in-kenmore-1068559280/?hl=puzzle

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Kenmore 106.8492410
would be Tech Sheet - 1123821
 
closest I can find is Tech Sheet - 1123827
which is for (seems to be similar): Roper SxS RS25AWXVW00   c.1989
 
http://appliantology.org/files/file/851-roper-fridge-sxs-rs25awxvw00/
which looks like a
“Version 1”
Cumulative compressor run application
See Procedure 2.
 
Universal Defrost Timer Whirlpool 482493
wiring instructions

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=3348

 

Defrost-Timer-482493-00928706.jpg

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Thank you for your info. I went out to fix this yesterday, looked at how the other timer was wired and when the timer motor ran. I wired the new timer motor the same as the old, black timer wire connected to terminal 2. Cumulative version 1. The motor only runs in defrost. Same as the one replaced.

Thank you Durham for the explanation. I was in a hurry and did not read the notes underneath continuous run and cum. version 1, about the wire colors. I always try to decipher the diagram.

Anyway, the problem seems to be solved and I opened the old timer up when I got home to look at the contacts, and besides being charred and pitted the number 1 contact had broken loose, around it's perimeter, and was sliding back and forth making the contact intermittent.

Thanks again my brothers, for your cumulative versions of help.

Edited by suampman

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I am at it again. My question is; with a cumulative defrost timer hookup, should'nt the timer motor run when the compressor is running? I checked both timers and the motor was only running in defrost. I accepted it because both timer motors ran in defrost. There is a plug for the wires so no chance of getting wires crossed. What am I missing?

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... The motor only runs in defrost. Same as the one replaced..

Defrost Timer runs during Defrost (Defrost duration time)

and when not in Defrost (has to know how long before going into Defrost)

(power from Compressor, through Timer Motor, though Heater, through Bi-Metal)

 

During non-Defrost, the Defrost Timer will run IF:

Cold Control is "closed" and Defrost Bi-Metal is "closed"

(Compressor is running, and Evaporator is cold)

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Thanks RegUS, It is amazing how I confuse myself sometimes. I read the post from the Samurai,(DaveK 2012) and realised from the comment from Budget Appliance Repair, that the bimetatal was not closed. I new that when I was at the job, but forgot. I think I need to start taking my ginko biloba. Thanks again for all the help and praise be to the God of Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and Appliance repair masters. Can I get an Amen?

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Amen! The masters here have saved my hind quarters on many occasions.  One thing I found that helps is to actively engage with the info before you go to the repair. You can do this by writing or typing out the info. Saving  it to dropbox or evernote doesn't help with retention.  Before I go out to a call where I'm not so familiar with the procedure, I'll type/write out an outline of what I suspect the problem is and how to solve it. Couple that with some hands on repair and you will start on your journey to become a master.

 

 Participating in this site, by helping others is also an active engagement that reinforces your knowledge. One great thing about this site is  by the time a thread is complete, the different masters will add their take on an issue, giving their approach and sometimes correcting any mistakes you may have made in your attempt to  help others .This is invaluable because learning what not to do can be of equal importance as learning what  to do.    And here, you can learn, teach and make mistakes all while having a bit of fun.

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Looking at my earlier post and the diagram RegUS delivered I realized my previous post could not be right. I celebrated to soon. I will update in about a week when I give the customer my post repair courtesy call.

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After about a week this refrigerator is working as it should. Thank you to all those who helped in my time of confusion.

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