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stevezodiac

'Sup with this cooktop burner valve?

13 posts in this topic

GE JGP622ER1WH gas cooktop. Second time a burner valve has locked up so now I've got to fix it before I run out of burners altogether. Something's going on...it's not gummed up or it would yield to gentle persuasion: it's locked tight, as in mechanically, and it did so instantly...no period of gummy, ever-more-reluctant operation.

 

Plus there's an electrical connection to the valve that has no place being there. It's not the ignitor, it's a wire that goes directly to the burner control valve. The ignitor is way off by the burner head and it works fine, or would if the knob would turn.

 

I'm suspecting a safety feature. (Ain't it always the safety features that cause the grief?) Is there a solenoid in the valve that  locks the shaft if the stove decides it's unhappy that particular day?

 

No doubt I will figure it out once I get into the electrical box that the valve wires go into but I bet somebody here knows. Enlighten me, please.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Sounds like the 'push to turn' feature has quit.....A wire from each  gas valve to where ???................can you post a picture of the wire diagram???

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Each burner valve has a white box on the top of the valve with what appears to be a yellow live wire and a ground. The wires go back to the junction box. The yellow ones go to a terminal marked "120VAC" and the grounds directly to the plug that powers the ignitor.

 

They appear to be live all the time, based on the wiring. Haven't tested continuity yet but the ignitor works so the cooktop is getting power.

 

 

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What you are describing is the spark switch attached to each gas valve.

Will the valve turn if you push it in slightly?

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Won't budge at all. No apparent down motion either for a push-to-turn.

 

What does the spark switch do? Pass current to the ignitor only if there's gas flowing?

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I must be getting senile. Of course that's the ignitor switch. What caused the mental lapse is that there's one for each burner but they work in parallel so the ignitors all fire whenever one burner is turned on. Duh. But it made me think the ignitors were triggered somewhere other than at each individual burner.

 

That caused me to overthink this. If that's just a switch, then the problem is mechanical and inside the valve itself. Do these valves typically just lock up with no warning? Is the failsafe mechanism I was guessing had to do with the switch something in the body of the valve itself, or is it just gummed up?

 

It all seems to be academic anyway since these valves don't appear to be serviceable and replacements are $36 bucks apiece. Not worth fixing, evidently. I hate it when that happens...it's just so WRONG.

 

One more edit: One of the malfunctioning valves can still be pushed down a notch, but it won't turn. The other one can't be pushed down OR turned. So the problem isn't the detent or notch that keeps the stem from turning in the up position. I guess they are just clogged up at whatever passes for a seat in these things.

Edited by stevezodiac

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You're gonna replace the cooktop over a $36 dollar part? Is it in that poor if shape?

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The gas gas burner valve is definitely bad and needs to be replaced.  The problem is that I'm not finding the replacement.  Maybe someone else with better parts sleuthing skills than me can find it.  

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"You're gonna replace the cooktop over a $36 dollar part? Is it in that poor if shape?"

 

Shoulda explained that I don't particularly like the cooktop, even though it's in quite good shape. The burner grates slide around too much, the wells they sit in aren't deep enough. I picked this one up for less than two new valves would cost, so I'd rather spend my resources on getting my 1949 Maytag range back in service and let this one go. Or go looking for a commercial cooktop like a Vulcan or at least something newer consumer-grade with square grates that lock together and can't slide around.



"The problem is that I'm not finding the replacement."

 

Thanks for weighing in on this, O wise one. The valves are showing up at a few places online. $36 was the cheapest I found.

Edited by stevezodiac

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"Gas valve-rt WB21K5015

Item #252057    (OEM Part)

$60.95"

 

Another nail in the cooktop's coffin. Funny how it has left and right side valves. Doesn't seem such an engineering feat to use the same part in two orientations. And why is one side so much more expensive?

 

Thanks for looking for it, though.

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Two different causes of the surface burner gas valves locking up.

 

1) valve lube has dried out and the siezed the turning portion of the valve

2) moisture/cleaning fluids getting into the top portion of the valve were it immediately enters the

    top plate of the valve body and the shaft seizes in the top plate.

 

When number 2 happens you usually won't be able to even push the control knob in to try and turn it.

 

I've had many of this style valve lock up and been able to repair them.  Pop the spark switch off the top of the valve and you should have two small hex head bolts that hold the top plate/knob shaft assembly to the valve.

 

Once those two screws are removed the shaft and top plate will lift off and there will be a spring under that so hold it together when removing the screws.

 

Now you can try to clean and lube the shaft and top plate assembly if the shaft is binding up in the top plate, you see this problem mostly on the cooktops and some of the Caloric models that have the knobs and shafts pointing straight up, (when cleaning with sprays or spills can go down the shafts and start corroding the shafts.

 

If after taking the shaft and top plate off the shaft turns freely in the top plate then you will need to grab the top of the valve stopcock with pliers or channel locks and gently work it out of the valve body, a small twist will generally snap it loose with the extra leverage you get with the pliers.

 

You would then clean the stopcock and re-lube with the appropriate gas valve grease and reassemble.

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Superb! Thank you, Willie! That's more to my taste...clean and lubricate and put it back in service rather than go the new parts route if at all avoidable. You saved me having to figure it out on my own (and likely break one as part of the learning curve).

 

And of course I realize it's a gas valve, hence all the dire warnings elsewhere on the net about replacing rather than servicing, but if it passes a leak test after careful reassembly I feel confident it will be safe.

 

Much appreciated and thanks to everyone else who contributed.

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