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Samsung Refr. RS275ACBP no ice or water at dispensers

25 posts in this topic

I checked the FAQ's here and found that I first needed to check the light switch on the freezer door.  It works fine.  There is water at the inlet to the solenoid valves but that's as far as it goes.  If you manually put ice in the ice bucket and then try to dispense it, that does work.  So I'm thinking either the solenoids or control module.   Is there anyway to check the control module and the solenoids with a VOM for correct operation or should I be looking at something else?

 

Thanks,

Wayne

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Did you check to see if water is going into and coming out of the filter? You may have a frozen/clogged/ filter housing or filter.Try removing the filter and see if water is dispensed. It is my understanding that Samsungs, unlike many GE's, will dispense water without a filter or bypass in place (btw if you work on many GE's, do yourself a favor and keep a couple of filter bypasses on your truck. I've cursed myself many times for not having one).

If water is dispensed, then your problem is either the filter or the housing. If they haven't replace their filter in a while, try replacing filter first, if that doesn't fix it, they needed a filter anyway.

if after removing filter and water is still not dispensed, check your valve to see if water will flow to the filter. Disconnect line to filter then engage the valve. If water comes. out of valve then more than likely a filter housing problem.

 manual http://appliantology.org/files/file/613-samsung-fridge-sxs-rs25-rs26-rs27-sam0097/

 


Also check temp settings. Last time I had this problem with a Samsung, the fridge was set to 34 degrees... housing froze.

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They are not using the Samsung filter.  All of the kitchen water goes thru a reverse osmosis filter.  The original installer said that it would be OK to do it that way.  The refrigerator temp is set at 36 and has been that since installed.

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They are not using the Samsung filter. All of the kitchen water goes thru a reverse osmosis filter. The original installer said that it would be OK to do it that way. The refrigerator temp is set at 36 and has been that since installed.

Are the water lines still running into the filter head? If so, reverse osmosis could cause a slow leak combined with 36 degrees can lead to freezing. The 36 degrees may be read by a sensor far from the filter housing causing the housing to be at a lower temp. This is only a possibility and may not be your issue right now but I would advise them to increase temps to 38 to prevent future problems and allow for proper diagnosis. 38 is the recommended setting for most fridges. Still remove the line coming out of the valve to the filter housing and engage the valve. We have to rule this out first before looking at other possible problems.

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OK. Will report back after next visit to this problem child.

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I would also suspect possible freezing. These will work with the filter removed, but they are designed to be used with the filter in place. See if the valve is being activated, but likely there is a restriction or water supply issue.

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Always good to hear from our resident Samsung expert, Brother Ohm!   :sorcerer:

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Yeah, I was wondering if one of those Samsung beasties took him out. But I imagine   like Gandalf after the Balrog's whip drug him into the abyss, Ohm will always return, stronger and more powerful than ever.

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Yeah, I was wondering if one of those Samsung beasties took him out..... (snip)

 

Lol! Samsung is the easy part of my day ;). I have 4 kids and the weather is getting nicer here in New York. I also own rental property and have this bad habit of not hiring any needed projects. SO, if I seem to be hit and miss, y'all know why ;) Glad to see people getting such friendly help at the coolest Appliance site online in the last 50 years ;)

Edited by Ohm

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That rental property stuff can wear you out... i had 30 of 'em at one time and only had a small crew..  Some folk say that's why I'm nuts today.

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Finally got back to this... He had reset his fridge temp to 38 and it's been there all this time. Today I tried to disconnect the water line from the solenoid to the dispenser. Pulled the plastic "c" clip and pushed the collar down but could not remove the plastic line. It's really stuck in there. How do you disconnect it? I did activate the dispenser on the front door and could feel some vibration in the coil but still no water.

Wayne

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Finally got back to this... He had reset his fridge temp to 38 and it's been there all this time. Today I tried to disconnect the water line from the solenoid to the dispenser. Pulled the plastic "c" clip and pushed the collar down but could not remove the plastic line. It's really stuck in there. How do you disconnect it? I did activate the dispenser on the front door and could feel some vibration in the coil but still no water.Wayne

been there! Sometimes you have to use pliers or something to push down the collar. First, try to release pressure by turning off water and disconnecting the line from the other end. With the collar pressed, try pushing the line in first then pull it out. I had so much problem with one that I cut the line a few inches above the connection and added another connection.

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So you're saying that it should be able to just be pulled out once the water pressure is relieved?

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So you're saying that it should be able to just be pulled out once the water pressure is relieved?

Yes, unless you have a sticking collar...if the collar is able to be pushed in evenly, you should be able to remove the line when the pressure is relieved.

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OK... I finally got the line out, turned the water back on and then pressed the lever to call for water on the door. Nothing came out of the valve/solenoid. Does that mean that part is kaput or is there another test to further identify the failing part?

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this is a two part valve I think. One part is connected to the line from the house (pre-valve), then goes to filter and then to a dual chamber valve.  Describe what you have found.....where is the water not coming out?  Is water entering the dual chambered valve without any problem?  Is water entering and leaving the pre-valve without any problem? 

 

You can test valves by comparing resistance to that written on the valve. You can also introduce 120 volts to each valve using a cheat cord and see if it will energize the valve.

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this is a two part valve

 

Yes it is a two part valve. Part number here is 2034441. The line I removed is the one that goes from the valve to the water dispenser on the door. No water came out of the valve when called for. I did not remove the supply line since it's pretty much a home run from the supply that bypasses the internal Samsung filter to the solenoids. How do you test for water entering and leaving the pre-valve?

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I went ahead and checked to make sure water was available at the valve and then checked the resistance on both of solenoids. The resistance was 385 on one and 390 ohms on the other. I'm going to go ahead and order 2034441 since I think that must be the culprit (water available at the valve but nothing comes out when called for). I understand the it can be returned if that turns out to not be the failing part.

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I understand the it can be returned if that turns out to not be the failing part.

Correctillia! Any part purchased through this site can be returned hassle-free for any reason for one year. This includes electrical and electronic parts that have already been installed.

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Replaced the water valve and now when water is called for at the door dispenser, there is a very small stream of water but still no ice cubes. I believe the valve was part of the problem but there must be something else.... Need more ideas.

Thanks

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looked at your part.... no there is no pre-valve, just a dual chamber valve. From your description I thought water was going to valve then to filter and back to a valve. That is not correct since now I understand the filter is bypassed in lieu of a house filter/osmosis system. . Therefore , only a single dual chamber valve is needed and you have the correct part.... we can now rule that out.

Okay, now that were on the same page, it is possible that you have multiple problems causing your issues, ie faulty icemaker and faulty dispenser line, however, it's still more probable the issues arise from a single source (assuming there is no ice in the icemaker mold). So let's continue to look for another source common to the dispenser and icemaker. btw, when multiple issues arise always ask the customer did the problems occur at the same time.

1) Is the water pressure coming from the house line/osmosis system sufficient? From what I read, you said you did not test the water coming out from the house since it is a "home run." Does that mean you are assuming the water pressure entering the valve is sufficient?? The house valve could be faulty.

2) Can you attach a cheater cord to the valve and check to see if water is dispensed or enters the ice maker? If water flows freely into the icemaker and out of dispenser then we need to look at mechanical/electrical problems... again using single source theory, maybe a board is not sending proper voltage to the valves. Now, please understand, I have not looked at the manual to see if the board controls the valve on this fridge... just providing general guidance and things to check out at this time. I will look closer at this model/manual later today.

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OK. When you say cheater cord are do you mean to provide 120AC directly to the solenoids. Also, I did check the water pressure at the valve and it was OK.

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OK. When you say cheater cord are do you mean to provide 120AC directly to the solenoids. Also, I did check the water pressure at the valve and it was OK.

yes... voltage directly to the valve.... again, I am assuming your valve is 120v ac valve.... BUT make certain anytime you are introducing an alternate electrical source! as a reminder I have not looked at the manual

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Since the valve is new, couldn't I just check the voltage at the plug?

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Since the valve is new, couldn't I just check the voltage at the plug?

We are not just checking voltage, we want to see what happens to the water when the valve is energized....ie does the water come out if so, where along the line is it blocked

 

Checking the voltage to the valve is also very important....you can start a harvest cycle on the ice maker and also depress the dispenser button while testing voltage at the valve connector.

 

Does your manual provide for a diagnostic test for the ice maker and water dispenser? If so, have you tried it?

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