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Samsung Refr. RS275ACBP no ice or water at dispensers


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24 replies to this topic

#21 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 06:44 AM

looked at your part.... no there is no pre-valve, just a dual chamber valve. From your description I thought water was going to valve then to filter and back to a valve. That is not correct since now I understand the filter is bypassed in lieu of a house filter/osmosis system. . Therefore , only a single dual chamber valve is needed and you have the correct part.... we can now rule that out.

Okay, now that were on the same page, it is possible that you have multiple problems causing your issues, ie faulty icemaker and faulty dispenser line, however, it's still more probable the issues arise from a single source (assuming there is no ice in the icemaker mold). So let's continue to look for another source common to the dispenser and icemaker. btw, when multiple issues arise always ask the customer did the problems occur at the same time.

1) Is the water pressure coming from the house line/osmosis system sufficient? From what I read, you said you did not test the water coming out from the house since it is a "home run." Does that mean you are assuming the water pressure entering the valve is sufficient?? The house valve could be faulty.

2) Can you attach a cheater cord to the valve and check to see if water is dispensed or enters the ice maker? If water flows freely into the icemaker and out of dispenser then we need to look at mechanical/electrical problems... again using single source theory, maybe a board is not sending proper voltage to the valves. Now, please understand, I have not looked at the manual to see if the board controls the valve on this fridge... just providing general guidance and things to check out at this time. I will look closer at this model/manual later today.

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#22 Retired

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 07:11 AM

OK. When you say cheater cord are do you mean to provide 120AC directly to the solenoids. Also, I did check the water pressure at the valve and it was OK.

#23 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 09:02 AM

OK. When you say cheater cord are do you mean to provide 120AC directly to the solenoids. Also, I did check the water pressure at the valve and it was OK.


yes... voltage directly to the valve.... again, I am assuming your valve is 120v ac valve.... BUT make certain anytime you are introducing an alternate electrical source! as a reminder I have not looked at the manual

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#24 Retired

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 07:57 AM

Since the valve is new, couldn't I just check the voltage at the plug?

#25 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 10:42 AM

Since the valve is new, couldn't I just check the voltage at the plug?

We are not just checking voltage, we want to see what happens to the water when the valve is energized....ie does the water come out if so, where along the line is it blocked

 

Checking the voltage to the valve is also very important....you can start a harvest cycle on the ice maker and also depress the dispenser button while testing voltage at the valve connector.

 

Does your manual provide for a diagnostic test for the ice maker and water dispenser? If so, have you tried it?


Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com





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