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Skripo

Kenmore He5T F25 and F17, thats right F17!

19 posts in this topic

We have a 2007 Kenmore (Whirlpool) HE5T Steam washer Model # 110.47789 700 that displays the F25 error and then an F17 (which is not listed anywhere.

 

I saw the F17 error myself after disbelieving my wife and son.

 

The machine has recently started displaying an F25 error randomly.  Most of the times it is with a heavier load in the wash cycle.  The machine works for about 4 minutes then stops rotating, displays the error and stops.

 

I did the full diagnostic and it runs perfectly.  Oddly I can do a drain and rinse which spins at full speed then stops and pauses for 5 minutes with no activity, then displays the mysterious F17 error.

 

When lightly loaded the machine seems to get through a cycle fine.

 

I have read that it is the MCU or Motor, which I will ohm out this evening.  Is there any other possible cause?  I read about the pressure switch but can't seem to find it on this model.  Where is it?  Should I check any thing else?

 

 

Thank you.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

So its the MCU but I still have 3 more questions.

 

1) I saw a site that rebuilds MCUs.  Seeing as it is a frequently problematic part do you know what typically goes?  The transistors?  The 2 big start capacitors?  What is the problematic component?

 

2) Do I still need to ohm the motor?

 

3) What is an F17?  Seems like a phantom code.

 

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Usually, when you take these apart, you'll see a big burned spot where a component burned up. For some reason due to either age or substance abuse, I forgot what they're called but it's basically a current controlled power transistor. Brother Reg will know and maybe he'll chime in. Anyway, depending on how bad the burn is, some traces may be burned, as well.

Any part you buy through parts links at this site are guaranteed for one year. Compare with the guarantee on the rebuilt boards.

Most of these circuit board problems can be prevented by using simple, wall plugin surge suppressors.

Always a good idea to ohm out the motor windings and its easy to do. You're looking for low ohms, all three windings the same. Open from winding to ground.

Not sure what F17 is.

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Thank you for the amazingly quick answer.

 

I know what to do now and will report back.

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I finally put in the new board and same problem.  Do I replace the other board or motor?

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So its the MCU 

 

 

How did you determine this?

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Based on your post #2 and your link to the part.

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Is 8182793 the right motor drive unit?

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Based on your post #2 and your link to the part.

 

 

I posted a way to test the MCU, and the part link if the test results indicated it was needed.  My question was directed to the specific results of that test.  Do tell.  

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I seem to have offended you in some way and I don't understand how.  

 

Post #2 is very clear, disconnect the blue plug and start wash.  If washer acts like it wants to start but doesn't then come git a new MCU at the link you provided.

 

Did what it said, and washer acted like it said so I got the MCU but no love.

 

What is next?  The motor?  The CCI?

 

Please advise, thank you.

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I seem to have offended you in some way and I don't understand how.  

 

 

 

 

I don't get offended.  I ask clarifying questions.  I can't help it if that makes you feel squishy.  

 

 

 

Post #2 is very clear, disconnect the blue plug and start wash.  If washer acts like it wants to start but doesn't then come git a new MCU at the link you provided.

 

 

 

 

Assuming you did exactly this, that's the clarification I was asking for.  

 

 

 

Did you ohm out the motor?  

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I did but I only have a super fancy fluke that I am not sure how to use but the motor seemed fine.  Assuming the board is good is the motor the only other option?  I would hate to keep pouring money into this machine and not get it up and running.

 

Thank you.

Edited by Skripo

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 the motor seemed fine.  

 

 

Define "fine."  What where your meter readings?  Where and how did you measure?  

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It was within the 6 ohms, but I will recheck but can you answer my question?  If its not the MCU is it most likely the motor?  If so I will pull it out and have my friend ohm it.

 

Thank you.

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 but can you answer my question?  If its not the MCU is it most likely the motor? 

 

 

No sense engaging in speculation when there's so much fact-gathering to be done.  Now get busy!   :argh:

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ohm out the motor pins 1,2 3, should be 6 ohms, four and five witch is the tachometer should be around 116

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Didn't have the patience so I bought a new motor and installed it and now everything is great.

 

I should have ohmed out the motor first time around.

 

Thanks for all your patience and help! 

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I should have ohmed out the motor first time around.

 

 

I agree!   :wink:

 

 

Always a good idea to ohm out the motor windings and its easy to do. You're looking for low ohms, all three windings the same. Open from winding to ground.

 

 

 

 

Did you ohm out the motor?  

 

 

Motor:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/8182793/1164507?modelNumber=110.47789700

 

Drive-Motor-8182793-01273552.jpg

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