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Whirlpool LER6620PQ0 - Heating but Motor Not Running?


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11 replies to this topic

#1 tkshelton@me.com

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 04:29 PM

According to what I have read on lit about the Whirlpool LER6620PQ0, the heating elements should not be on when the motor is not running (centrifuge sw not engaged).  Is this true?  Right now that is what is happening when I move the timer to, let us say 60 minutes.  It does not matter if the push to start switch has been hit, or if the dryer door is closed - the heating elements come on when the timer is advanced from off.  

 

I have tested the PTS sw  and door SW with a multimeter - all working.

I have pulled the motor and looked at the centrifugal sw - it appears to be mechanically just fine.  

 

I have not tested the motor, but not noticing the traditional 'burnt motor' smell.  Will be testing motor while I wait for a response, but am sorta confused why the heating element is coming on - where's the power coming from?.

 



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#2 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 04:31 PM

Check the heat element itself...prolly will find it is broken and grounding to the casing.
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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 04:35 PM

Heating element part link :  http://www.repaircli...mber=LER6620PQ0

 

Repair video at link above.

 

 

Heating-Element-Assembly-279838-00631722



#4 PDuff

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 05:35 PM

If element found not shorted to ground, select air fluff (no heat) cycle and see if element glows.  If it does you have a bad timer.



#5 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 05:39 PM

It would have to have a welded centrifugal switch also if that was the case, pduff...

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus, 21 May 2013 - 05:45 PM.

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#6 vee8power

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 06:46 PM

Another thing I find on these is the rotating part that operates the centrifugal switch in the motor breaks. Look inside the motor near where the wires attach and rotate the shaft slowly by hand. There should be two springs 180 degrees apart rotating with the shaft. If there aren't two springs, you'll prolly find one of 'em in the bottom of the dryer. That switch provides one leg of power to the element, the timer the other leg. You could need a new motor.

http://www.repaircli...tor/279827/2584



#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 06:55 PM

... the heating elements should not be on when the motor is not running (centrifuge sw not engaged).  

true for all brands of Dryers, gas and electric

 

Run Dryer Cycle in air-fluff,

If there's heat, then the Heater Element is partially shorted to chassis / ground.

If no heat, then seems like a bad Motor Centrifugal Switch.


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#8 tkshelton@me.com

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 07:58 PM

Note

* Additional Previous symptom - Engaging PTS sw + door closed does not result in motor running

 

Full set of symptoms

*  Heating element on when should not be

*  Motor will not run

* Timer is working

* PTS sw is working

* Door sw is working

 

Motor Tests

* centrifig sw tests fine with mutlimeter

* motor windings test fine with multimeter (1.5 to 5 ohms)

Heating Element tests

* Heating Element not arcing to case, nor is it touching the case
* But Heating Element is grounded to case as per multimeter

*  Found wire looping from one side to the other 'touching' the metal cross support member - slightly welded.  Snapped off without damage to the wire itself.  Heating element still 0 ohms from terminal end to terminal end

* Reassembled heating element - no longer coming on.  

 

Symptoms Now
*  Motor will not come on

* tested Thermal Fuse - found to be open  - probably due to high heat

 

Parts to Order

* Thermal Fuse: http://www.repaircli...mber=LER6620PQ0

 

* Plastic Wheel Blower (damaged trying to remove from motor): http://www.repaircli...mber=LER6620PQ0

 

  - anyone know where I can buy a metal assembly vice the plastic one?


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 21 May 2013 - 08:22 PM.
Added parts links


#9 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 08:09 PM

Nope...don't beat yerself up...I always have one of those if I am taking a motor out because sometimes they just won't come off without breaking...no other option but the plastic .

Didn't ya see my post before ya took that motor off? DOH!
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#10 tkshelton@me.com

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 08:09 PM

FYI - not fully satisfied I had finished T/S.  So I temp wrapped the 2 terminals of the thermal fuse together with electrical tape.  Motor and heater now runs. 

 

FYI2 - I had not seen the other posts till after T/S through the motor and the heating element. I had physically disassembled the centrifuge switch and physically checked its operation (after cleaning).  It was fine.  

 

Thanks to each of you for your help on this one.  Special thanks to BMF for making me relook at the heating element with a multimeter - should of known better.  :)   I hope my experience serves to help someone else.  This forum is definitely one that I will stay connected with. 



#11 tkshelton@me.com

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 08:14 PM

BMF - no I had not seen your post before I took the motor off - wish I had.  :(

Grand Master Funk - I had thought of the Fluff mode test too - no heat.  Thanks though.  I was working while you were typing. ;)



#12 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 08:14 PM

No sweat...next time you know
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